My lengthy Borg warner T18 rebuild thread

Yes. I opted for the sealant and have trimmed all excess gasket and sealant from the perimeter of the bearing retainer.

 

Took the shift tower apart today. Spent about 90 minutes or so on disassembly. A fella with more than one functioning brain cell could do it faster but, me, the always overcautious, afraid to mess it up person I am, well....it took a bit longer. Still don't really understand the voodoo that happens in here. I kind of understand what the parts are for, their job but, not really how they do their job. Bad news is, the area of the shift tower where the shift cane goes in, looks pretty worn out to me. I don't have a replacement cover so, I think I'll be dealing with the slop in the shifter. Bummed. I was hoping to end up with a decent feel when I was done. Oh well. I've learned some new stuff so, I guess it's worth it anyhow. It's not rocket surgery really. Of course, it's not back together yet.


Remove this pin, under the screw on cap, and the shift cane comes out.




Inside of shift tower:






Here's the guts before surgery.




Removed the roll pins holding all this stuff in place. I suggest a long, straight tipped 3/16 pin punch. Mine is only about 1 1/2" long before it begins to taper out and I found myself wishing it was longer (insert jokes here). But, it got the job done. Also note that, when removing the pin for the 3rd-4th shift fork, the corresponding shift gate must be slid to the rear to allow the pin to be driven out. This is what cost me some time before I figured it out. I was worried about moving stuff around in there.





Here's everything laying out.




New spring for reverse plunger beside old, bent, compressed one.





This is the new retaining washer for the plunger, supplied with parts kit. It fit about as well as a hot dog in a hall way. I reused the original.




New parts played out next to old ones. The new interlock pills have sharper pointed ends than the old ones. I guess I'll use the new ones. The old rounded ones don't really seem worn, just a different shape. The springs are the same length except for the center (3rd-4th) shift rail. The one that came out is longer than it's new replacement. I'm not going to mix and match, I think. I'll use all the new parts.

 

You have the large spring that goes under the threaded cap? That holds tension on the shifter to minimize play. If it's collapsed or weak can cause excessive play.

 

Yes. There was a large spring under the cap and, a new one was supplied in the shift cover parts kit .

There is a lot of metal worn away from the area inside the bore for the "ball" of the shift cane. I am assuming, and judging from pictures of new shift covers, that the wall of the bore should be straight and smooth down to the cup or socket area at the bottom. This one is not. If I had to guess, I'd estimate 1/32" +/- of metal is gone from about 1/3 to 1/2 of the inside circumference. Less the rest of the way around. Seems the rounded, bottom, socket area of the bore is worn as well.

I can see how the spring, pushing the shift cane ball down into the socket, would help to limit the play.

Gonna contact the usual suppliers tomorrow to see if anyone has a good, or at least better, used cover for a reasonable cost. A new one is out of the question for my budget. If I can't find one in a few days, I will reassemble what I have and live with it. Maybe it won't be as bad as I think.


ED: Just found this: Says it's for a Bronco. Mine supposedly came from a pick up. "Not compatible" on sellers compatibility list. Wonder what the difference is, if there is one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400886696988?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&fromMakeTrack=true

Looks just like mine. Casting number on mine ends in ....097-906 though. Same vintage if everyone so far has been accurate with what they've told me. Seller of my transmission said it was a mid 80's vintage. '84 I think he told me. This seller claims the same time frame for this cover. Price seems fair for NOS from what I've read other have paid for what I think was reproduction new.


I am going to inspect the pin for the shift cane, the slot in the cane ball, and the hole for the pin. The pin did not just fall out when I took it all apart. Still closer inspection is warranted before jumping to buy parts that may not be needed or may not help.

 

I found an old post/reply by Nick in regard to this shifter play in a T18. You described about the pin, hole, and slot in the shift cane.

From 11-22-2010,

"Typically they really don't wear out except for the late model tops with the aluminum forks and the guides wear out as you indicated. The side to side slop from the lever is probably one of a couple of things. The slots in the pivot in the stick are worn out, the pivot pin is worn, or the hole the pivot pin goes through in the top is worn.
The most common problem though is the reverse spring wears out/breaks. There is a spring loaded plunger that when you move over to reverse it compresses this spring. VERY common for it to be bad. In fact, I rarely rebuild a top (not necessary) but I put a new reverse spring in every top before it goes on a transmission. It's really not hard. you need to watch out when disassembling the piston (held in place with a "jesus" clip) that you don't lose that clip. No longer available. By the way, the spring is available from Ford new or from places like R&P. If you want to rebuild the whole top that's a good thing, but I think you'll probably find the only thing wrong is the reverse spring unless you have rust issues. Make sure the forks/rails are in the neutral position, remove one shift rail at a time, watch out for the detent springs and balls (they love to shoot across the shop, put a rag over the rail when moving it to help contain the ball) and install with the new spring and ball, then move on to the next rail. There are interlocks in between the rails as well so be careful to not let them fall out or you could accidently shift into two gears at once. I'll dig around tomorrow if I get a chance. I may have a diagram showing the parts. There typically won't be rebuild instructions as the tops don't typically get rebuilt, but there may be something out there."



Today, I found this on youtube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXSdniEENpc

I still haven't inspected mine that closely but, I'm thinking I can tighten everything up as Nick, and the video, instruct. I am uneasy about using a drill bit end though. But, I guess the original pins are pretty hard also so.......

 

Last evening I drilled the hole out, in the cover, for the shifter pin and squared up the slot in the shift cane, widening it to fit the diameter of drill bit. I'll cut the shank end of drill bit off to make a new pin and that should tighten up the shifter.

Also reassembled the rest of the shift cover. I now have a much clearer understanding of how that magic happens in there. For that reason alone, I am glad I did it. It probably was not a necessary task as nothing in there seemed worn or damaged. The reverse spring was bent a bit but, that was all. The other replacement springs (for the poppet balls) are stiffer than the old ones but, I think the old ones would have been fine.

WEAR SAFETY GLASSES if you do this job. Had I been unlucky, I would have had a poppet ball, moving at Warp factor 1, impact my melon. Luckily, it only hit the work light, bell housing, tool box, then the floor. 20 minutes later, I found it at the other end of the garage, under the JEEP. I just didn't put a rag over it because I couldn't see what I was doing if it was covered up. Then, I figured out a trick and used a rag, as suggested, to cover things and keep the the balls from flying. I had no further incident after figuring out the trick mentioned below.

First-second rail installed.




This is the best way I found to hold the ball and spring in place as the shift rail is pushed through. A brass drill drift small enough to hold the stuff in place but not as large as the diameter of the bore. I used a needle nosed vise grip on the drift to help push down on it and the ball and spring while pushing the shift rail through and displacing the drift.




Next came the reverse rail. Got a bit confused here because my instructions showed the rail going in end for end with the machined groove at the front of the cover. Didn't make sense and my pics showed it being the other way. I put it in the way it came out and believe the drawing on the instructions is wrong. Hope I'm right.




Third-fourth rail going in. Couldn't get the shift gate on, once I got it in far enough, because it wouldn't go past the other gates. So, back up and punt. I removed the roll pin from the first-second gate, so it would move out of the way. I had accidentally used an old roll pin and it needed to be replaced with a new one anyway so, it worked out. But this allowed room to get the gate on.



Here it is, all back together.




Gotta put the plugs back in the shift rail bores, test the reverse light with and replace if needed, and sit the cover back on the trans for a test row through the gears and this things about done.

I still wonder why I am even doing this. Wheeling opportunities around here are nil without 100 mile journey at best. I could be putting this time and effort into a '68 'vette or something. I dunno.

 

You're doing it to learn and to explain to idiots like me how it's done. So, on behalf of idiots everywhere, we thank you and your 1 1/2 incher.

 

Yea, I guess. I don't bring as much to the forum as i wish I could so, maybe this is my contribution. See my description under my screen name......beeg dummy. There's a reason for that. Idiots unite!!!!

Oil caps are installed with a dab of sealant around them. Put the cover on the trans and it went through the gears as it should. Getting ready to list left over parts on eBay since i think I'm good and there is no longer a need to keep them.

On to the adaptation for a second: My notes tell me that I need a 6-29 tooth bull gear to work with an OD. I have 4 but, none are marked Dana, as I would like. Not sure of their manufacturer or quality. All are used. Also a note in my notes about needing one with a recess cut in for the washer and nut, to accept the OD. I've never seen one without it but, notes say that bronco Dana 20's have no such recess.

One of these gears looks pretty good. The far right. The others show various amounts of light rust and pitting. Unless I can find a very nice one marked Dana, I'll be using this one (far right in pics below).

Can someone please confirm that I am barking up the right tree with this bull gear?




Note the difference in the thickness around the circumference between the tooth area and the recessed area. Is this a concern with the OD or anything?

 

I hope I'm reading what you wrote right but the bull gear on the OD takes the place of the gears you are showing.

 

OK. That makes sense as I just dug out my OD and found that it has a 29 tooth gear on it already. I know 0 about overdrives as well so, I was quite confused when my 6-29 gears would not mesh with the gear on the OD. I'll get more into this when I start a "T18 conversion/installation" thread. Hope that doesn't take 2 years.

looks like I have 4 heavy sinkers should I ever take up fishing.

 

Thinking of replacing the stock breather in the cover with a barb fitting so I can extend the breather. I've got all my other breathers extended into the passenger compartment. Maybe not necessary but, since the rest of them are done, I may as well do it. Thoughts?

Breather and hole for reverse light switch.




Both switches tested OK. Left is from IH cover. Right is from Ford cover. I'll use the IH part for ease of installation as I don't have the harness end for the Ford plug.
The parts are interchangeable as far as threads, thread depth, etc.




Top cap and spring.




The OD I dug out. It'll go to Herm for a switch from front shift to rear shift and a general look-see by a pro.

 

Almost there Dave! The breather just presses in. Iirc you can tap the hole to 1/8" npt but double check your hole size before assuming that. I'd recommend some light grease on the ball pivot and cap. It will minimize wear and make it a little easier to shift. Plus it will act as a seal a little bit.

 

I was wondering about the grease, Nick. Read it somewhere. Any particular type that you'd recommend? Concerns about it contaminating the gear oil?

So, I think I'm gonna call this done. Except for the breather and putting the cover on (nothing there I haven't already pretty much covered.......arr arr arr), there's not much else to do. The shift cover will stay off until this puppy is securely in the JEEP. I can then fill it with gear oil from the top so as to coat everything as I fill.

I drilled the cap for a new pin for the shift cane. Made the pin from the same drill bit and carefully ground the slot in the shift cane for a nice snug fit.

Made a temporary cover to close up the top of the trans while working on the next phase(s) of the project. These include bolting the dana 18 to the transmission and the actual installation.

Carried this pig outside into the daylight for the first time in a long time today. Shot it with semi-gloss black since everything else is that color. I know gray is the suggested color, to help make leaks more evident but,.......

So, one last picture, back on the bench with the Dana 18.

New thread on the horizon describing the installation process. Hopefully, it won't take 22 months like this did. But, there is a lot to do. New clutch, rebuild and move clutch slave cylinder on the firewall which will require moving the wiring harness where it comes through the firewall. Fab a crossmember. Fab the trans cover floor area. Install the OD. Maybe get the driveshafts resized.

And, in closing, one final huge "Thank you" to all who have guided me through this. I ask too many questions, worry too much and overthink everything so, I appreciate you putting up with me. I can't imagine where this would have gone without your expertise and advice.

 

I'd use some moly wheel bearing grease but Lubriplate works well. Such a small amount would get in the gear oil won't be an issue.

 

10-4 Chuck. i have box of about 8 or 10 of them. All these 29/6s, a 29/10 (I think), and several 26/6s.

I am curious about the ones not stamped <DANA>. Been collecting them for many years from the JEEPs I've parted out. Can't believe that many of them had been replaced with an aftermarket piece but, I suppose that's possible.

Think I'm going to go ahead with the breather extension on the cover. I need a 7/16 drill bit (cause the one good one I had is missing), 1/4" NPT tap and, a 90* fitting with a hose barb. Figuring on the floor cover being a tight fit so, the 90* should help a bit vs. a straight up fitting.

 

Hey Wheelie, bringing your thread back from the dead here but I just used the heck out of it as a reference for converting my Ford T18 to accept a Jeep Dana 20 adapter. So thanks.