Rebuilt engine problem.....coolant leaks

Just started my rebuilt F-head....I should have drilled a hole in the thermostat before I started because it didn't take long for the temperature to go to 210.

Problems:
Before I ran it I turned it over with the starter a few times just to make sure the oil pressure was rising - which it did - and I noticed coolant from the top three exhaust manifold studs at the nut. I stopped read about putting permatex #2 on the studs. So I pulled the manifold off studs out, cleaned them and put permatex #2 on the studs into the block. Everything went back together fine.

I started the engine, it smoked for a few seconds then ran great....sounded great at least.

Then, the temperature started to rise after about 5-10 mins, no more exhaust pipe smoke, however I noticed coolant dripping from the same exhaust manifold studs....and also head bolt 8 I think...the one with the accelerator linkage bracket under it.

I drained the oil and coolant no sign of coolant in the oil.

What should I do now? Pull the head off and use a different head gasket? Try Permatex 2 again and let it set up longer before starting the engine? Can I just pull the leaking headbolt and seal it or do I need to do the whole sequence again?

Thanks for suggestions...I'm a novice, and my searches here didn't come up with anything.

 

Head gasket may still be ok. As you sugested , just pull, clean, and reseal the offending head bolt. I would only tighten it to about 10 ft-lbs less than specified and then go through the entire torquing sequence. You should re-torque after the first warm-up anyway and that may solve the problem. Only then would I pull the head if it is still leaking. For the leaking studs, pull, and clean both stud and block threads well and make sure they are dry. Think I would use a liberal coating of the blue locktite on them for sealant.

 

Through bolts and or studs into water jackets can be problem which requires care and preparation from the outset.
Your threads need to be clean..........chasing them with a fresh tap is a good Idea , and then spraying the thread cavity with a product like brake clean to flush them out.....finally a little air.
Your head bolts also need to be in good condition..........no pitting in the shank or threads........should also be wire brushed and sprayed with brake clean and dried.
There are numerous choices for thread Sealants...........some swear by the Permatex 2 as you have used, others like Ultra Black RTV, another may like the Loctite products or thread sealants like the Permatex #56521 , others even feel an anaerobic product is best.
As mentioned above the preparation may be far more important than the actual sealant!..............

I have had good luck with the Permatex Product #56521 rated pressure 10k PSI and designed for head studs........a little goes a long way! One last thing I always also add a can of standard Prestone "Stop Leak" to the system. Doesn't hurt a thing.

 

Quite a few re-builders put some form of stop leak in the blocks before they go out of the shop.