225 dauntless v6 redline?

i looked for this a while back but never found info on it that gave me a solid answer. what is the redline on a dauntless v6. it must be incredibly low right?(compared to modern engines)

also is there somewhere on here that has someone that tore down a dauntless v6 and rebuilt it with some pics?

 

max rpm for the buick, i'm not sure.. I don't even know what rpm I'm shifting at when I drive mine.
I recall seeing dyno sheet for that engine, If I remember correctly it was tested to 4200 for max horse power.



Grannycj is in process of rebuilding his v6
http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?101530-225-engine-assembly

 

Pfff. The Buick V6 was raced at Indy. It could rev really high if it were set up correctly.

All these passenger car engines are built for low speed operation though. "Red line" is fairly meaningless - they are all wrung out at well below what they can be safely revved to. The torque peaks at 2400, and HP peaks at 4200. Unless you have a souped-up engine, there's no point in turning the engine faster for a decrease in power. You start revving faster, and the valves will float, you might bend a pushrod ... but it won't blow up. If the engine is worn out, you might hammer a rod bearing.

Just drive it like a Jeep, not a hot rod.

There was a recent thread that shows all the steps of a rebuild. Search - or just look at the last few pages of posts. If you need education on rebuilding, read this first - http://www.amazon.com/Engine-Builde...9248&sr=8-1&keywords=engine+builders+handbook - the 225 is a conventional engine design and you don't need a lot of specific instruction. This book plus the factory manual should be all you need.

 

With new valve springs, they will turn 5000-5200 rpm, but, they pretty much fall on their face at 4500 rpm. As the others said, they were made for low rpm power whether in a Buick, or the Jeep.

 

i know valves will float...really didn't feel like finding out when they did though, not a fun experience. this is just information i like to know, i installed a tachometer (a really cheap one that gets the job done) and i set the redline for 4000 and rarely go above that. and i was also just looking around to see what people do and what the engine is like on the inside ( i have redone a camshaft on a amc 304 so i know push rod engines are pretty simple mechanically, but its still good to know and every engine rebuild thread i see helps me a little more)

i was looking at rebuilding my engine down the road after i get my new differential installed and some new tires, at 150k i think its time for a re build

 

i've had mine well over 4500 when i'm in 2wd going up the sand dunes here (really steep hills). there really isn't much power after that unless you do some work to the engine. spinning that fast i would hate for that heavy flywheel to come off.
heck 150k if everything was maintained like it should it's almost half used up if that. i would run it till it needs it.

 

every time i go up to 4500 and shift its breaks traction for a good 1-2 seconds... never let it go higher then that. and everything i look at on it seems to show it was maintained well, i started to take care of the jeep cause it sat in our garden for about 8 years and now its kinda my jeep, i have had to replace the alternator/water pump/radiator/master cylinder(and the entire set of brake lines to the rear) all of the fluids(tranny, motor oil, transfer case, front and rear diff/ brake fluid)/gas tank/sender unit/took off all the emissions crap(wooo 1970s) and at the moment right now i am replacing the rear diff with a auburn pro series limited slip...i broke the carrier on the previous diff into 2 complete pieces... wooo

but should i really not worry about the engine that much?


I absolutely love this jeep though...even though it costs me a fortune...and im going to have to find one of my friends to keep it maintained when i go off to coast guard, but thats problem for future me, for now its my toy and i fix what breaks

 

I would be nervous about revving one hard unless I knew the condition of the cam gear and timing chain...

 

whats the need for a tach . going down the road at 50 the motor sounds like its going to jump out of there . and I don't think mine would go much faster that 70. mostly drive it top speed 60-65 . and that's no long trips . my body just ain't up to it anymore
off road its slow anyway and works great . just my 2 cents

 

My guess if you ask Nickmil about his race jeep or Warlock about his with all Kenne bell parts your gonna get redline's well above 6000 rpm. An engine power output in terms of rpm depends on the ports, the cam and valve train. A stock 2 bl small block chevy's redline is comparable to the buick v6 if you compare the old 60's engines.

 

i like to know everything thats going on, tach helps monitor stuff(and i know how fast im going at certain rpms...my speedometer is out, looking at getting a new one), highest i will take my jeep is 60 and the only reason it will reach that high is due to the warn overdrive.

i will never take my engine that high

thats on my to do list just for saftey

 

I agree with Timgr and McRuff. It all depends on the I divi dual engine. The "RaceJeep" built 225 I used to shift gears at just a shade over 7,000 rpm and it liked to run at 5000 pretty steady. The Daughter's stock 225 I don't like shifting much over 3500 rpm or holding extended rpm over 3000-3200 rpm, and prefer keeping down around 2600-2800 max for extended periods. Short term maybe up to 4500 for short bursts. It is bone stock with an unknown amount of miles/time on it though.


Sent from my iPhone

 

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