Disc type Transfer case/transmission/parking/E-Brake?

I know there have been several threads on making a Frankenstein Disc brake setup for the back of the Transfer case. Has anyone come up with a setup that doesn't require welding, cutting or getting in the way of the PTO cover?(I've got a winch) I'm also only interested in keeping the stock cable and brake handle.

After about 4 or 5 attempts to adjust the stock shoes, I can't get it to work right. I've been round and round with every thread on here on how to do it. It's either too tight and grabs at low speeds or is too loose and won't grab at all. BTW, It've got new shoes and drum. Not to mention, the little drops of oil out the back drop right on the shoes.

After probably 3 years driving it, I would really like a good parking brake

 

Sucks to hear yours isn't working out well.

I've had no issues since I burnt everything off my drum.

 

This is what I did.

 

We need details and more pictures please!

 

Specs would help me too.... hope to get engine and tranny in my frame fairly soon

 

Yes, more on this please!

 

+1. More info please.

 

Looks like the rotor is from All Pro Offroad
https://www.allprooffroad.com/pickupbrakeupgrades/33

Go Kart brake caliper
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200323386_200323386

Mount looks to be the floating mount for the caliper but I'm having trouble finding it....

I think most everyone is curious how the disc mounts and what the caliper mount bolts to

 

Well here goes.
The disc is from All pro off road. I had to open up the center to fit the yoke and redrill mounting holes.
The caliper is a Wilwood 120-1360 from Summit
The caliper mounting bracket is from MFG supply. mfgsupply.com
I used a piece of 3/8 plate for the mounting bracket. The first one was aluminum ofr the mockup.

 

Thanks! I'm going to add this to the Jalopy now.

 

So you made the backing plate and the actuating arm correct?

 

Thats correct. I used the drum backing plate for thehole size template. I had a template for the arm but can't find it. The e brake cable stayed in the oringal location.
There are 2 larger hloes in the backing plate for bolt head clearence on the caliper. I also had to a 3/16 spacer inbetween the halves of the caliper to gain a little more clearence for the rotor.
I also added a bushing in the actuating arm to cut down on flexing and the locknut helps with that also.

 

I assume you had a machine shop make the busing and cut out the rotor. What did you use for that caliper spacer? How well does it brake? Are brake pads easily obtained? You know you could make this in a kit form and sell them....lol

 

I got the bushing at my local hardware store. It was a flanged bushing with a 1/2 inch od and 3/8 id. I chucked the rotor up in my small lathe and opened up the rotor. It needed to be opened about ..080 or so. The pads are standard wilwood pads. It brakes great to me compared to the always oil soaked drum setup. It does require a little more pull than you maybe used to. I am all ready going broke on this project. lol

 

Called Tom Wood DS. They have a not application specific parking brake kit $250.00 For $110.00 would make a mount, if you send in rear flange of TC.

 

What's a generate parking brake? So its $275 plus $110? Consider this my Santa list for this year Steve.

 

Changed it Matt HA

 

How well does yours hold on an incline? I take it it is hooked up to the stock foot pedal?

Mine in the buggy works ok, it needs more leverage. Its hooked up to a toyota pickup pull handle as thats all I could fit at the time. I've heard the foot pedal setups are the way to go.

Kevo

 

It holds fine on my sloped driveway. I haven't had a good test on any hillside yet. It is hooked up to the stock pull e brake handle. It can use more leverage, but works fine the way it is.