Just Got Myself Into A 6...

I'm back.. took a small hiatus from working on the 6 to get some other things buttoned up and clear my head a bit..
I also have to admit.. the new forum really got to me and I was afraid/reluctant/frustrated to post...
I'm slowly getting over it...

Jeep is nestled in the garage for the winter..

was hanging out there last night, sitting in the seat making motor noises when I noticed my brake lights weren't lighting up.. end sup I had 2 blown fuses.. Brake lights and Turn signal..

couple of WTF's and a drink later I traced my footsteps to the last thing I did before I put the Jeep away....

Slider frame bolts cant be used as wire clamps..



Winter to do List:

Things that need correcting

-Fuel Lines need re flaring
-Steering shaft needs set screws drilled
-Was running rich when parked, TBI adjustment before spring driving
-Excess heat under the hood.. louvers, coolers, don't know where this one is going
-Change fluids all around
-Re Seal Tcase oil pan
-Tcase shifter angle
-Horn button / column connection

Things that need completing

-Hazard Switch wiring
-Washer pump wiring
-E brake adjustment
-Soft top drilling and install
-Rear bench
-Slider to cage tie ins
-Sliders and seat mount painting
-Shifter tunnel / boots

 

You shouldn't be dealing with a hot motor. New engines can produce a little more heat while they break in, but your set up should be plenty to cool that. Improper timing can also make a motor run hot. I wouldn't start cutting the hood for louvers right away. There's no reason that thing should run hot that can't be fixed.

 

Fuses are our friends. Glad you found your problem so easily.

 

Yeah this one is going to settle itself out in the spring when I can run it on the rod. I agree with the timing and same with the running rich.. Not messing with anything till I do some good engine tuning and can couple it with road tests.

 

All I can say is" WOW". I'm workin on a 6, but it won't be like yours.

 

Any chance you can tell me the distance between the holes on the Z-Bar? I am not sure if my trans/transfer adaptor is a stock scout piece or if someone drilled and tapped there own holes. Also, do you remember the application or part number for the Chevy/Jeep mount? I find that when I try to order something and I am not sure what it is I usually end up talking to someone who doesn't know what they sell. Weird Huh?

 

I'll get under there this weekend and throw a tape on it...
I remember mounting the z bracket then the trans mount... Lined it all up with the crossmember and drilled the second hole in the Tcase adapter... Wanted to modify as little as possible and have off the shelf replacment parts...
The bracket is online order, (or easily made) but the mount itself is garden variety parts store.

 

The holes in my adaptor are three inches apart. I contacted an IH parts place. They measured a bushing for the mount and it was at three inches also. I also found a source for the z-bar or the whole IH setup with bushings. Did you go with the other bushing (not IH) for height reasons?

 

Height and driveline angle.

 

So I went back through your build again and forgot how freaking impressive your work and jeep are. All I can say is wow. I have a few more questions for you (for now)...
Do you know if the motor mounts you used are the same height as stock?
How are they mounted to the frame? They look like they are welded but the galvainized and plated areas don't look like they were heated up by welding.
Who made the motor mounts?
Does the steering brace use an aftermarket steering box bracket?
Who made the brace and/or box bracket?
Thanks.

 

really appreciate the positive feedback.. looking to get some wrench time on it soon to button up a few things..

I used M.O.R.E bombproof motor mounts.. they bolt in with only 2 holes that need to be drilled.
https://www.mountainoffroad.com/ height is stock. I did 99% of the frame work before getting it dipped.. the other 1% is a reserve for when I want to change something

Steering brace will work with either aftermarket or OEM box bracket..
http://extremecustomparts.com/
I believe they are the only company that makes an intermediate steering box bracket..
I didn't have an OE one at the time and wanted to get moving.. there was some massaging needed to get everything to fit.. I'm sure that was due to the added amount of zinc on the frame

 

Found some flares in my parts stash and am looking at my options..
I am certainly looking to keep a stock profile, but I have never been a fan of molded flares.
unless I decide to make something, a metal flare in the rear is only available with <3" of coverage, and fronts are usually integral to the fender...

just brainstorming here if anybody has an insight...

 

[QUOTE="

I used M.O.R.E bombproof motor mounts.. they bolt in with only 2 holes that need to be drilled.
https://www.mountainoffroad.com/ height is stock.
Steering brace will work with either aftermarket or OEM box bracket..
http://extremecustomparts.com/
[/QUOTE]

Thanks very much. Couldn't get the top link to work, even when I found it through Google, but it is no biggie because I am likely keeping my stock mounts. The extreme customparts site was very helpful. Makes me want to whip out the credit cards I swore off of and just start buying stuff. I think the support bracket might be on the "must have" list for mine due to all of the cracks I had to repair. I appreciate your help.

As for the flares... I scrolled back and looked at your other pictures. I like it better without the flares. Doesn't look like they stick out far enough to get the popo's on your case, and the more of that aluminum that shows, the better.

I probably missed it in the thread but what size tires are those and how much lift did you put on?

 

wrenches are working in reverse finally..

Amazing how much grime can accumulate under a car in only 500 Miles...
Trans and T-case drained.. oil looked good, not a great deal of shimmer.

Steering column removed from tube and set screw hole drilled.. column needs to stay attached to the steering shaft

T-case pan resealed.. gears look, no apparent wear from my little no oil issue..

Shifters removed and work on tunnel cover/boots has commenced..
its going to get interesting down there.. I'm trying to keep it clean, but the tranny is just so darn big..
also noticed that my passenger side body mount is settling a bit too much... might need to give it 1/4" more to keep the body of the trans..

 

trying to work on a trans cover...

anybody with a bulky 4 speed have any suggestions...

 

Old oil pan?

 

That's not a bad idea. And I know he knows where to get one.

 

my luck it would leak...

not the look Im going for.. but a solid option.

 

Looks like ill be tackling the interior of the Jeep first..
Mastercraft finally decided to produce and ship the rear bench, been waiting since early December.

Very dukes of hazard to get in there.. and if and when a top goes on, its prob near impossible to get back there..
Need to work on front back positioning.. too far back and it loos like a mini van without the 2nd row.. too far front and my 4.5 year old wont fit.. I think I need to get my tool box and cooler and measure accordingly

I love the look and function.. but damn near impossible to get 2 toddler seats back there.

 

my boys actually like climbing up using the roll bar and tire to get in to the back seat, but i don't need to use a booster or real kid seat. As far as the transmission cover, there are plenty of guys who made them look like a stealth ship or an F117, but I am opting for a flat top cover that I will weld a cup holder onto.