Block and crank back... It begins

Got the block and crank back from the machine shop today. Good news, everything is still standard, only honing and polishing the crank. Hot tank and cleanup was all that was necessary. Had them install cam bearings and freeze plugs. I'll start cleanup and paint this weekend, install after bearings and pistons arrive next weekend. Spring runs here we come.

 

Nice...would you have time to show it going back together, step-by-step?

 

Me too, I would love to see it go back together as well!

 

Sure thing.

 

would you mind sharing what it cost? I'm about to bring my block over to the machine shop and they quoted me ~$300 to hot tank the block and hone the surfaces, and then put the bottom end back together. Keep up the pics, it looks good so far!

 

Machine work and labor, machine shop purchased cam bearings and freeze plugs only.
Block tanked, inspected, bead blasted, honed, cam bearings and freeze plugs installed, crank journals polished-$140
Heads tanked, bead blasted, valve seats ground, air injection tubes removed, heads assembled-$175

 

Geez, I wish my heads cost that little! They supposedly had only 18k on them, but I brought them in to get hardened seats. $410 later they were back in my possession! I'm hoping the block will be much less expensive since there isn't any visible wear on the cylinder walls. I haven't checked to see if the crank needs work yet..

It sounds like you got a pretty good deal fb

 

I'm also interested in watching your build. I have a '49 with a Buick 231 in it and it's ready for a rebuild. Do you know of a good book to use for specs and some assy help?

 

Here is a good book for the 46-71 Cj's.........called Jeep CJ Rebuilders Manual by Moses Ludel............I don't care how many years or rebuilds anyone has done , It is still good for reference.

231 is a little different animal as compared to the 225 motor as far as balance ,compression ratio , oiling, heads and rockers..............probably the most important part to pay attention to in either the 225 or 231 motors is your front cover and the built in oil pump & related clearance in that cavity. Once there worn out oil pressure will suffer.

 

Thanks, that sounds like the book I need since all the running gear is from a '79 and the engine is out of a '78 Buick. It looks like it will cover all the bases. BTW, sorry to the OP for chiming in on your post but...... I have a knock and # 6 cyl is down to 25lbs. I pulled the valve cover and noticed that there was very little oil residue in there. Started it up and no oil splashing around like I would have suspected there to be. Could this be due to the oil pump problem that you described? There were no gauges installed when I got the Willys so don't know what the oil pressure is at this moment. Looks like rebuild time to me. Thanks OP, I'll move to my own thread after this.