11 inchers or disks/11s

What do y'all (you all) think would be better, 11 inch brakes all around, or putting disks up front and 11 inhers in the rear. I am working on my M38 replacing the 9 inchers. I have all the parts to do either, but just wondering. I know the 11 inchers would probably be easier, but will the disks stop me better? Has anyone gone from 11 inchers to disks up front? Impressions?

 

My braking system is by far the thing I am most pleased with in my entire buildup. I had 11" all the way around and swapped to large power disc brakes up front. I think this is especially true if your running larger tires (I'm running 34's) I'm sure my 11's would have been fine too if I would have rebuilt the entire system though. HTH Good luck.

 

I went from stock 10", to disc front/11 drum rear, to 11" all around. The front discs would drag really bad with my single line master cylinder. The residual valve in it is for drums, which made the discs drag. Not sure if it is possible to disable it. On dual chamber master cylinders it is under the tube seat where the line attaches to the mc and can be removed, or just get a disc/drum MC to begin with. If you are keeping your single line MC you might want to consider drums all around. Haven't heard much about it here, but mine dragged REALLY bad, would bring the Jeep to a stop and hold it on a hill at a stop sign!
I may eventually switch to a dual line MC using Herms bracket, then I could go back to discs, I still have the parts. My system works good enough though. If I was running larger tires or doing a lot of mud, discs would be a bigger priority.

 

IMO, the easiest upgrade is 4 wheel 11" drums. We slapped on old 11" setup directly from a Postal Jeep to the front of a 2A (9" rears stayed) and the braking was impressive!! I would love to try a disc conversion for the challenge but have too many other things higher on the Jeep upgrade priority list. IMO, discs are cool but drums are super easy and provide lots of stop.

Discs should turn normally paper thin close but the valve is keeping it too close.

Based on a conversation I had last summer with the local performance parts store, you may be able to run without the valve but may have too much pedal. There is multiple valve sizes you can use to fine tune it. Also, small diameter brake lines are preferred with disc while keeping the standard diameter for the drums. A different proportion valve may fix all you problems. Consult a <good> parts store or call Wilwood direct for advice.

 

I went from 9" to 11" then to discs on the CJ-5. I'll never go back to drums. The change from 9" to 11" was dramatic. Stopped very well. However, when they got wet braking was unpredictable and there is much more maintenance with drum brakes. When I went to discs I was much happier. Braking is better and more predictable than with drum, the wet mud and clay we get in Oregon doesn't effect them near as much, and much less maintenance. Lynn has a great system of drilling the 11" drums for similar performance, but that means every time you need to replace a drum, you have to drill it before you can use it. More hassle. 11" drums are easier to install and set up initially, but more of a hassle in the long run. If you have the set ups for both, I'd go disc. For most people, drums are a good way to go as there is less initial hassle. Nickmil.

 

Disc are always better , its just a matter of money and or luck finding doner parts . Remember if you switch out to disc you might wont to find a higher volume MC and dont forget to get rid of the front 10 pound res vavle as mentioned above.

 

OK, I think I'll keep a set of 11 inchers for the rear and the disks for the front then. Guess I need to do the D30 disks to Dana 25 swap then.... Thanks for the input gents.