Brake lines replacement

66 cj5, V6, 10" brakes...
Looking to replace all the brake lines in the system due to corrosion from sitting so long. Does anyone carry a complete kit from front to back?
Thanks

 

might give kaiser willy's or walcks a call. They have lines for other models, and don't remember if there is a difference between the four cylinder and v6 as for brake lines. I always like calling because I never know which parts for the 66 v6 are the same and stuff.
$160 at kaiser but thats for the four cylinder one.
Walcks
610-852-3110

kaiser willy's
1-888-648-4923

 

Inline Tube http://inlinetube.com/Preformed Lines/Web Line Listings/JP-CAT-01.htm

 

Thanks Piffey/timgr....thats 2 sources more then what I had to start. Will give them a try. I appreciate it.

 

kalcks has that kit but i think its still not on his web site. give him a call.

 

You might consider making the replacement brake lines yourself. You need the correct "double" flaring tool, the flaring tool for copper pipe is only a single flare. I picked up a double flaring tool at Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/double-tube-flaring-tool-kit-66534.html I paid $15 on sale a couple of years ago, replace all brake lines on 3 cars since.

I start by cutting the brake lines at the fittings, they are old and will twist off anyway. So cut them with a hacksaw or small grinding wheel. Carefully remove the old brake line. If you can't get the old brake line out without cutting it, then you will have difficulty putting the new one in. So if you have to cut the brake line to get it out, try to cut it in a straight section. Try not to bend the old brake line when you remove it, as you will use it as a pattern for the new one. You can buy the coil of brake line in 25 or 50' rolls.

I had an Ah Ha! moment when I started doing this. I had difficulty matching the curves in the new brake line. So I grabbed a roll of electrical tape and started wrapping the brake lines together. You start with 1" of the new line past the cut off point, to allow for the new fitting to be installed. Start at one and tape the new brake line next to the old one. When you encounter a bend in the line carefully bend the new line and get it as close to the old line as possible and tape it like you would a wiring harness, spiraling the electrical tape. If you have had to cut the old line to get it out, you can simply splce the two together and let the tape hold it in place. Takes me maybe 5 minutes to do an 8' section for my ford pickup, with a couple of extreme bends. When you get to the end of the old line, cut the new line 1" past the old line length. Now remove the tape by using a razor knife to go between the tubes.

Take a section of tube from the roll and make a couple of practice flares on the practice tube before connectorizing the bent tube. Don't forget to put the fitting on the tube before you flare the end.

I cut the tubes at the wheel cylinders and connector blocks and use a 6 point socket to get the old flare connector out of the cylinder. Works a whole lot better than trying to get them out even if I use a flare wrench.

I carry a roll of brake line and flaring tools and a couple rolls of electrical tape with me when I go on the trail. Who knows, someone may need it.

 

I did my own as well, as stated above get the tools. Jeeps are fairly simple to do.

 

I thought about that too Digger/Jason...but my luck with HF tools isn't the best(let me down a couple of times on tools). I just figure I can use that $ torward a preformed kit. I'm a DIY kinda guy, but for a one time deal like this, I'd rather not gamble on the HF stuff. Thanks for the tips though.

 

I'm pretty DIY savvy, and I've found it difficult to make brake lines to a high standard. I have a K-D (or Lisle?) flaring set, and several different benders, and I've not been happy with the quality of the flares I've made. The machine-made flares on the sticks of brake lines the parts stores sell always look a lot better. Pro-quality flaring tools are hundreds of dollars.

In my experience, the Imperial-Eastman tubing benders work the best.

One option, if you want to make your own, might be Cunifer line, plus a rental flaring tool. The Cunifer line supposedly will let you skip the bending tools. This company http://www.fedhillusa.com/ will sell you the line and also rent a pro-quality flaring tool for a week.

NB if you want stainless lines, the material is a lot harder to bend and flare than the usual mild steel.

 

Here's what I have - 56150 Lisle http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56150-Combination-Flaring-Tool/dp/B000HAUYCC

It's a split-bar type, and I found that it's really rough on the tubing. You either tighten it enough to mash the tubing, or it isn't tight enough and the tubing slides away from the die.

There's a K-D split bar kit, but the only other K-D unit I've found is the 2190 - and it's not in stock anywhere...

http://www.restockit.com/double-sae-45-degree-flaring-tool-kit-(kdt2190).html

 

The key to a good double flare is starting with a good tool and good tube. The Teflon or whatever coated tube stinks to flare so stay away from that. The other thing is preparation. The end of the tube must be perpendicular to the tube and absolutely no burrs on the inside or outside of the tube. No chamfer on the end being flared either or the die will push to the weakest point causing an offset flare.
The prep is where most people have issues causing a poor double flare.

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