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The 153 swap begins

Discussion in 'Flat Fender Tech' started by Truckedup, Nov 1, 2012.

  1. Truckedup

    Truckedup New Member

    First step is to pull the stock engine........... I'll be assembling the Chevy 153 four cylinder shorty when the machine shop is done beating up my wallet.A rough mock up using a 10-1/2 inch aluminum clutch housing looks like the brake arm and front drive shaft are tight clearance....Get a better idea once the engine is dropped in.Probably the Novak type 2-3/8 inch thick adapter is best to avoid hacking on the firewall.
    Any here got a photo of a 153 swap?

    [​IMG]
     
  2. duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    My experience has been that you are way better time wise to just pull the entire front clip for a motor swap. If the bolts aren't all frozen, it takes less than a 1/2 hour. On any of the old Jeeps, I usually do that for just pulling the motor. Sorry, no pics of a 153 swap (but lots of sbc swap pics).
     
  3. Truckedup

    Truckedup New Member

    Yes.off comes the front clip,not rusty....The steering box needs to be attended to also....
     
  4. WRMorrison

    WRMorrison Member

    Looking forward to more pics!
    -WRM
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 1, 2012
  5. Vhunter

    Vhunter Member

    Howdy, I just posted three pictures in my Album of Chevy 153 install, under Vhunter. See, if you can see them?
     
  6. Truckedup

    Truckedup New Member

    Yes, I see them...You have a custom set up....
     
  7. Vhunter

    Vhunter Member

    Custom only in the fact that I am using a tube frame, but the dimensions are stock, there is no reason to hack the firewall. What I would do is to mount the motor to the transmission in its stock location and see how it fits, you mite have to move the radiator some. You would be wise to install saginaw steering too, with your jeep being mostly stock I would go manual steering. This motor fits really well in a Flatfender Jeep.
     
  8. Truckedup

    Truckedup New Member

    The engine when aligned properly hits the firewall before it gets close to the tranny. Without reworking the firewall or moving the tranny forward, I need the 2-3/8 thick adapter.This thing actually steers ok with the stock box,little play and easy to turn. I pulled the steering box to inspect it,probably go back in,no room in the budget .I'm thinking the 153 is a bit lighter than the Go Devil.The stock radiator can't move forward because the bottom is pretty much up against the front cross member.My measurements have the 153 and original engine as the same length from the fan to bellhousing. But the 153 fan will be too low to be useful I think.Electric fan might be the best here.
     
  9. nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    The 153 will fit in a Flatty without moving the radiator and with stock steering. We out one in Dad's '43 GPW with no firewall mods and stock radiator. We did use a different transmission though (Saginaw 4 speed). I'd suggest swapping to the longer input shaft and adapter or move the transmission forward. Gm thicker adapters are fairly available used if you look around as should be inputs for the T-90. Just make sure you get an input that matches the tooth count of what you have now.


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