Removing trans and t/c ???

I haven't done this task yet, any quick tips? Should I remove them seperately or can I remove them as a unit? I have water leaking from the clutch housing and I think it is the rear freeze plug. Oh ya, this is on a 55 CJ5. Also, I have a Warn overdrive, do I need to seperate that before dropping the other two?

 

For starters, go pick up a copy of Moses Ludel's CJ Rebuilder's Manual. It's a great, great help and pretty good reading: http://www.bentleypublishers.com/jeep/repair-information/jeep-cj-rebuilder-s-manual-46-71.html

I'm over-simplifying a bit for brevity. You can look up each task for more info or maybe others will chime in. Take off the front and rear driveshafts, then the Warn overdrive. There's a procedure for taking off the Overdrive, starting with disconnecting the shifter at the Overdrive, then unbolting the overdrive body, then taking off the input gear set screw, etc. It bolts to the output shaft of the T-90 transmission, so the T-case won't come off 'till the Overdrive is out.

Once the Overdrive is out, you can unbolt the T-case shifters and remove the T-case-to-tranny bolts. Then you can remove the top of the transmission (it won't come out with the shifter on it) and remove the tranny. Once the tranny is out I'd remove the bellhousing, et al.

 

If you have a floor jack or transmission jack, you can remove the trans/TC as a unit. Put the Jeep up on jack stands so you have clearance underneath. Leave the assembly attached to the cross-member and support underneath the bellhousing with a bottle jack and cribbing or such. Take the shift stalk off - you may also need to remove the TC shifters, depending on how high the Jeep is.

If you prefer, you can remove the trans and tc separately. You still need to support the bell. Both are light enough that a strong, healthy man can muscle them down.

 

I used one of these from Harbor Freight



Really helped make the job easier.

 

Since the problem is water coming from the engine I would think there is less to mess with if you pull the engine and leave the rest in vehicle. Can you still get to the back of the engine even after removing OD/x-ferr/trammy/drive-lines/clutch linkeage etc. etc.?

 

Thanks all for your comments. I should have opened the question as to what's the best way to get to the rear freeze plug.

 

I removed the whole assembly and crossmember as one unit.
Easy with a trans jack supporting the crossmember; could also prolly have just used the floor jack.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e121/348Win/7666653a.jpg

 

I am with Walt & Steve on pulling the engine. Freeze plugs seem to run in packs. Replace all of them.

 

By no means am I any sort of expert, but I do agree on having the book for your Jeep.

I would also tell you to get on down to Sears and pick up a set of large sockets. I forget the sizes in the set but they were all over one inch. The set was on sale for $20 last weekend. You will need a 1 5/8th socket that is not part of the set. That my friend will set you back $18. Unless you have a 3/4 inch breaker bar you will need a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter that will set you back an additional $7.

One bit of advice that I will offer (because it is kicking my butt at the moment) is to break loose the nuts on the yokes (going to the rear and to the front axles) on the T-case. I did not. I am having a heck of a time trying to figure out how to hold that shaft in place while applying 5,000,000 pounds of torque.

 

Good advice on the sockets, etc but he's got an Overdrive. He doesn't need the big socket for the input gear nut. The 8-point nut on the Warn Overdrive will use a regular 1/2-inch drive extension. Don't forget to remove the snap ring that holds the lock plate in place before you try to back out the nut.

FYI - most good impact wrenches will zap those nuts off. Make sure there's no remnants of cotter pin left in the output shafts first, though.

 

The book Dummy recommended is excellent. A must have for all ECJ owners.