hi-low jeep pump?

does anyone have info on the "Hi-Lo JEEP" hydraulic pump?
my jeep has one for its snow plow and i would like to know more about it.

i also can't find oil as thin as it calls for (the pump states "use SAE 10 oil")
i found power steering fluid that can be used in place of SAE 10 on-line, but it is not available locally and I'm hesitant to put something in that could have bad results on the pump. anyone have a fluid to recommend? i figure power steering fluid is as close as i'll get..
:hurrican:

 

Any heavy equipment shop will have sae 10 weight oil. Also try the local hydraulic repair shop for the pump info and repair.

 

thanks, I've worked with tractors on the farm but only came across 20w-20 or 10 in at least two gal... the farm is about 950miles away I'll see if i can get two quarts from a shop, what is SAE 10 most common in I've only seen it in engine governors.

another thought: can i increase the reservoir size by replacing the vent plug with a hose to a second tank (just like a remote master brake reservoir), and run a second valve for power angle?

 

My dad has been running ATF in his for the last 23 years I think. I'll ask but I'm pretty sure he's been running ATF.

 

Is your Hi-Lo a big rounded design with integrated valve that was designed to mount on an F134?
or is it a square type with externally mounted valve that was designed to mount on the Dauntless V6?
I have some original documentation on the V6 version and it says something like: use SAE10 - use of other fluids will result in immediate pump failure.

Tom

 

it hugs the generator, rounded aluminum housing, valve is external with a control rod through the firewall
pics i have at hand






is there an ac compressor type clutch that can replace the solid belt pulley, i have to take the belt off to keep it from making a mess traveling the highway otherwise i need to set up a idler and shield like an inexpensive lawn mower. this is going to be the first year of daily driver and plow duty.

 

I plowed with one for 15 years-- they work great.

I would just take the belt off in the summer-- made for a much quieter ride.

I too ran ATF and/or power steering fluid in it.

If yours is spewing that much oil, it is time for a rebuild/re-seal. The ones I had that were in good shape would not leak.

There's no need to make the reservoir larger-- just fill it to about 2" below the fill hole.

 

well the pump needs a rebuild seeing that the pulley shaft came out and glitter followed. luckilly the belt kept the pump shaft from falling off, the fan belt slipped when the belts rubbed together, and my low amp light came on when the belts stopped turning.
are there any suppliers for rebuild kits or would i need to measure everything and find a hydraulics shop... i can handle the rebuild i just don't know where to start with parts what the specs are, what is likely to cause this... right now everything is ziptied together and i havent been able to take the pump off.

 

I had the same thing happen to one of mine. The faul was in the adjustable sheave (pulley). The set-screw came loose and allowed the belt to tighten up all the way. This put a ton of excessive side load on the bearing and it failed. Cut the shaft right off the pump. Luckily I was close to home and was able to drive back with the plow down the entire time.

Luckily I had a spare pump waiting for me.

I wasn't able to find rebuild parts for the broken one- at least not from Monarch Road Machine (the manufacturer). I found it was easiest & most affordable to buy another pump. They are on ebay most of the time. You will pay a premium for them this time of year!

Please let it be known if you are able to find rebuild parts.

 

Re: hi-lo jeep pump?

i went to the local hydro shop and he's never seen a pump like this but he gets parts from a monarch company.

i got a call back and the shop did call monarch and it sounded like it was the manufacturer of the unit and repair/ replacement parts are not available from monarch due to the 30+ age... I'll try to get more info directly from monarch if i can but the shop sounded like they exhausted there resources

the shaft slides out so it seems that whatever holds it inside let go... I'll get more pics up if i can
i don't have any documentation at all, so pics of the documentation would help a lot and if there are any other pics, such as a pump disassembled that i can compare each of my parts to it would help a lot.

 

yeah-- as stated-- Monarch had nothing for me.


Disassembley is fairly easy- as far as I remember. It is a simple gear-type hydraulic pump inside-- You may be able to have a new shaft made.

Again, from what I remember, just take the 5 or so allen head bolts off-- that will allow you to separate the pump from the cast aluminum housing.

 

ADMIN, is this OK?

JeepPower,
I have a Hi-Lo Monarch pump taken off my CJ2 about 20 years ago. Contact me for details if interested.
bar

 

I'm going to turn a new pump shaft, is the woodruff key under the gear the only thing keeping the shaft in the pump, i noticed the broken shaft was internally threaded but it did not have anything to fill the threads. i think if something is normally here this may be the cause of my problem, the key has a notch in it from wearing against the housing.

 

JW-- I can't say anything about it's design-- let me go downstairs & dig through the parts I have for it.

Props to you for making your own!

 

i got a new shaft whittled down from a 5/8 x 6" bolt, but lost needles from one bearing and found the largest bearing is locked up... mehh so now I'm getting determined to fix it..:evil: and i got some of the washers/ spacers/ gaskets out of order... i failed to get pics when it got disassembled (oil was everywhere so working a camera didn't happen, sorry I'll try pics when i reassemble it) and i'll be out of town for the holidays mehh

 

go man go!! determination is what it takes

 

let me know if you need parts-- I know I had mine in a coffee can somewhere...

 

as i recall the Assembly went (i'm guessing on some of this too so don't quote me...yet)

variable pulley,
pump shaft ( 0.5" Diameter x 3 9/16"L pulley side & 0.375" x 2 1/16"L w/ 1/2"Long woodruff keyway starting 13/16" from step to 13/16" from pump side),
Seal Retainer With a felpro 471442 seal
copper crush washer,
Pump outer housing With Torrington B-812 closed needle bearing
thin paper gaskets?
pump end plate (I'm guessing on terms) WITH THREADED ALLEN BOLT HOLES AND ANGLED PORT OF HI-PRESSURE OIL GALLEY GEAR SIDE and Exiting to the IDLER side of the outer housing, With Torrington B-610 Bearings
Spacerplate, woodruff keys,
Gears: Pullyshaft gear [/////] and the idler gear looking [\\\\\]
Reservoir sideplate, larger threaded pressure relief hole on same side of gears as HI-pressure galley and oil pick up screen Assembly opposite
then cardboard washer?, brass washer/shims?, and lock rings on the idler side.

now is some confusion... i have two brass washers and three cardboard ones
one cardboard washer on the pulley side of the idler shaft, then a sandwich of brass, cardboard, brass on the reservoir side of the idler shaft. the pulley shaft does not have any means to hold a washer so the last cardboard washer must have gone between the smaller bearing and the step of the pulley shaft.

from what i can assume there should have been another sandwich of copper, cardboard, and copper washers bolted to the reservoir end of the pulley shaft that would prevent the woodruff key from wearing against the Sideplate, shedding glitter and shearing the shaft.

for those with working pumps how much endplay does the pulleyshaft have? I'm thinking if there is no play than my theory is viable but if there is a hair of play i would be wrong... or a peak at the end of the shaft through the top of the reservoir top shaft likely having lock rings bottom having the end of a bearing or the head of a bolt:?

 

JW-- I know my pumps have had some endplay-- some of them significant (1/16" on one-- it was worn, but it still worked great & didn't leak)

 

PARTS!!!
brand new timken bearings & federal-mogul seal
better, non-broken, non-ugly, pulley shaft turned for the pump (thank you Mike)

new bearings installed. new pump shaft in. all internal mating surfaces flat sanded. gears have roughly .0015 side clearance after sanding. new gasket cut. pressure relief and lift valves are fine for now, lift cylinder seeps but still OK for now.

note to others the four b-610 bearings are a pain. The method of replacing these with minimal damage is to punch a gap in the end of the casing dump the needles then fitting a split lock washer inside the empty case by the lock washer allowed a hammer and punch to knock the casing out without breaking bits off the case each time.

the new shaft has a screw installed with a metal washer to keep the woodruff key from wearing. fiber washers are installed nearest each bearing (i assume they allow a small amount of oil to pass) brass washers are between lock-rings and fiber washers. I plan to use O-rings to shim the washers on pulley shaft this way any axial load is cushioned and hopefully the woodruff keys will not rub the housing as they were. currently waiting to get o-rings and then the shaft seal can be swapped out.