CJ-3a Build

YJ springs have the same overall length and dimensions front and rear, and have a centered pin, so they are interchangeable, unlike CJ's. The only real difference with the BDS springs for example, is the 4 or 5 leaf version.

 

Ragnar,
What is the length of your springs?
Also, before you are set on a shackle reversal ask yourself how much hard breaking you may be doing. If this is to be a daily driver you may want to rethink the reversal.
My `73 with it's shackle reversal has a great ride in the rough stuff but it misbehaves (read may be life threatening) in panic stops at speed!
Nice work on your rig!

 

Eye to eye spring length is 42.5".

As a matter of fact, I've decided against doing the shackle reversal. I've daily driven a CJ-7 with a SR, and to be honest, I couldn't tell much difference either way. It seems as if opinions are incredibly varied on SR's, pretty interesting really.

 

so, heres my next ? i have a set of stock wrangler springs. and i have a m.o.r.e. shackle reversal kit for a cj5 that i have seen work in a flatfender set up. what i was gonna do was use the rear springs in the front with the sr and use the front springs in the back. do you think that would work?:?

 

Nope. You'll have uncontrollable axle wrap. Use the 5-leaf rear packs in the front, but you'll need to nab another 5-leaf rear pack for the rear. You may even consider adding another leaf to the rear so you've got 6 leafs. If you adjust your rear spring and shackle hangers so they're not that tall this is a good way to fight axle wrap without having the Jeep sit too tall in the rear. The YJ rear packs, even with a 6th leaf in them are still pretty soft and flexible.

 

*******,

I'm assuming you're going SOA with those stock YJ springs? In which case, the general consensus is to have at least 5-leaf springs front and rear, and the addition of an anti-wrap bar in the rear. Do a search and you'll find a lot of good information.

Remember that I'm doing a 3.5" YJ SUA, so the axle wrap issues don't really apply to my build.

 

well i was going to try to set them sua because right now im running 31/10.5. so i figured stock wrangler springs would work sua for 31's but im just in the planning/ gathering parts stage now so anything is possible thanks guys for the info.

 

Great looking jeep, can't wait to see your results. Everyone's got a good perspective, but it's your rig & more importantly, YOUR MONEY. Only requirement is that you enjoy yourself & post pictures.

My own flatty is restored back to original as much as possible, but it is still a complete Frankenstein, with parts from 2A's, 3A's, M38's & M38A1's (took 5 jeeps to build one really good one). Imortant thing is to not let it sit in some field or yard & rust away.

 

Any updates?

 

So I started up the project again, and here are some progress pics.

The BDS 3.5" YJ springs are hung, and front and rear crossmember/bumpers were made. The goal was to keep each piece bolt-on and removable, and the wheelbase essentially unchanged. I'm happy with how it all turned out. The front bumper is made from 4x4x.120 box, the rear is 3.5x3.5x.188, which is a perfect fit over the frame horns. The spring mounts are 3.5x3.5x.250. The YJ springs are 42.5" eye to eye, essentially 8" longer than stock in the front, and 2" in the rear. Shackle mounts are WP Warrior CJ-7 rears. Shackles are M.O.R.E. 4" YJ shackles, which I needed to modify a bit to clear the bumpers.

I purchased some Eastwood rust encapsulating paint and Chassis Black topcoat, which will go on this week, followed by 4x.125 plate to box the frame.

 

nice, on fabbing the rear spring eye hangers. i love those square/rec tubing...i've used those for body mounts also.

setting up the frame and springs has been my favorite phase so far in my own build.

 

any updates?

 

Time for an update. I painted the frame with Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator and did two top coats with their Chassis Black, using a combination of brush, mini-roller, and rattle can. I like how it turned out, and it was all very easy to apply. I narrowed the front narrow track Wagoneer Dana 44, using the same method as has been described online in detail by John Nutter and others, only having to narrow the long side. I will say though that removing that piece of axle tubing inside the inner "C" was a bit harder than I had expected. I made a bunch of relief cuts using the sawzall, and just spent a lot of good ol' personal time with the punch and mini-sledge.

I wanted to do away with the stock under-seat tank, so I ordered a 15 gallon replacement gas tank for 78 and up CJ's through 4wd.com, along with their replacement skidplate for CJ/YJ's. There is a crossmember that needs to be moved forward a few inches to fit the tank back there, so I ground down and punched out the rivets holding the crossmember to the frame. After many minor alterations to both the tank/skidplate, as well as my homemade rear-most crossmember, I think I finally have it where I want it. My only concern is the rear pumpkin hitting the skidplate. There is 2 3/4" between the two, and I'm hoping that will be enough. I could massage it a bit more if need be, but everything will bolt up nice and clean where it is. If anyone has any advice, or would mind measuring the distance on their Jeep, I'd love a PM. I have moved the tank back as far as I can, so I'll just have to wait until I get all the weight on the rear end and can cycle the suspension.

My springs are 27 1/2" pin to pin, which is nice because they're lined up right under the framerails. The bad part is that the right rear spring sits partially on the rear pumpkin, which will make doing a U-bolt flip a little more involved. I'll be doing the U-bolt flip using Terry Howe's method of incorporating stock Dodge plates on the long axle sides, and using home fabbing on the pumpkin sides. Boxing the frame is also in the near future.


[

 

Hey Ragnar2xx2

I am in the same boat as you. How has your progress been with the chassis? I am currently working on a 2A chassis with 4 1/2 " YJ springs and boxing the frame. I just installed a CJ 5 gas tank much like yours as well and it is looking like My axle is going to contact the skid plate much like yours. I was considering notching out the tank and skid plate to clear the axle pumpkin. Another question? Is there any body mounts on the rear most crossmember for the back of the body? It seems like there should be some support there for it but I have looked at my body and frame and see no signs of one. I bought my CJ 2A in kit form. It said some assembly required. Ha Ha. So I have never seen my jeep assembled. Hope your project is going well. I am curious to see the progress.

Greg

 

This is a sweet build. I have a 3a that's in queue for a build. I'm probably going to keep it close to stock since I seem to spend most of my mod time on the ecj5. But, I may do a bit of resto modding too... I'll keep an eye on your project. Mine won't start for a while.

 

Bump for updates. This rig ought to be done by now.

 

Any pics of the axle mods?

 

Okay, so it's been a looooong time between updates on this thing. Life sorta got in the way of my Jeep build. I started this project 3 years ago, wow. I have a lot to update here, so be patient with me. Here's where we are now:

 

Frame is boxed front to rear. I added these 2" holes which I have rubber plugs for, with the idea that every once in awhile I can take out the plugs and hose out the frame for cleaning. The insides are all coated with the same Eastwood Rust Encapsulator paint and chassis black topcoat as the rest of the frame. Having those holes made it easy to get the paint in there with a bent coat hanger and a paint soaked rag. All of the spring mounts use bolts with nuts welded to the inside of the frame. I like the idea of keeping everything on this Jeep bolt on.