sm465 to '71 225 V6

It sounds like I need a standard BOP bell to mate up my sm465 and V6. Is there any way to adapt my '71 bellhousing to work with an sm465? I did some searching but never came up with the exact reason this swap won't work with a '71 bellhousing. Thanks for your help.

I know I will need to enlarge the bore to 5.00" for any V6 bellhousing I use.

 

in 1971 jeep made the bellhousing with the adapter built in to the bellhousing.it has the t-14,t-86 trans bolt pattern instead of the standard bop bolt pattern

 

You'll need the earlier bellhousing that used the adapter to mate the T-14. Yours is 1-piece aluminum with the T-14 pattern in it - a '70-'71 only item.

Find the earlier bell, throw the T-14 adapter to somebody on this board for cheap, then send the bellhousing and SM465 input bearing retainer to Novak to have the bellhousing bore opened up to 5.00 inches and the retainer turned down to 4.995 inches (or find a machine shop that can do it). This info is right on Novak's website at: http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/sm465.htm

It's actually one of the more user-friendly conversion company websites and is packed with tons of really good info.

 

I know my bell has the BOP pattern. I meant standard as in not with a built in t14 adapter at the end of it. I completely understand having the bore opened up.

My only real question was is there any way to make the '71 bell work with an sm465 and the answer seems to be a resounding "no!"

Thanks for the help.

 

I already have an early 225 bellhousing bored out to do this swap if you are interested PM me.
If it is an original 71 bell it is has the t-14 adapter built into it as you said hense it is to long and the bolt pattern I believe is not even close either.
And yes it is a resounding no.

 

Go to any wrecking yard and get a Buick, Olds V-6 aluminum bell from one of the stick shift cars. Works great!
Bore for the 465.

 

I forgot to mention too, before boring any bell, mount to your engine and dial indicate the bore for run-out( machine shop will know what I am talking about) and bore to correct. Now you are killing 2 birds with one stone. Price is no higher. Maybe take the bell and mark it with the indicator readings as you spin in the bore( indicator is clamped or mag base mounted to the crankshaft as you turn it) and then show the machinist what you found.
The fix people have to do sometimes is re-locate the bore with eccentric bushings in the bell dowel to block holes ( a real pain and lots more expensive) Do it when you have that bell bored out and you'll be glad you did.
And, for that matter, if you check it and it runs true, the machinist will just line up on the existing bore. but you will KNOW THAT YOU DID IT RIGHT!