road wander seems to be a common theme

Wow, it sounds like several of us have the same problem. Road wander. I am about ready to give up and make a radical change. I am looking at either a front 3 or 4 link set up. The track locator or wish bone looks like it would take care of most of my problems. I had my son turn my steering wheel back and forth and the front axle moves quite a bit side to side. It is moving in the spring bushings. I thought I bought good ones but I guess not. With so many of us fighting the same problem it would seem like some suspension company would invest a little time and money to build a good replacement front set up. Maybe they do and I just haven't found it. Does anyone know of a coil over, 4 or 3 link set up for a early 70's CJ? I am really discouraged after replacing every part of my front end, cutting off the spring pads to adjust the caster and still not being able to enjoy a drive somewhere because I'm busy trying to stay out of the other lane or side ditch. HELP! I'm ready to try a different approach. Maybe a cross link from one side of the frame to the opposite side of the front axle. I need a good plan.

 

I just took several pics. Take a look and tell me if you see anything goofy. Thanks, John

 

It's there, covered by the winch. What I see when the steering wheel is turned is the shackles flexing in the spring bushings. It's not much movement but by the time it reaches the front axle it looks like quite a lot. It's more of a rocking movement. Does that make any sense?

 

On my CJ3A, I put a cross member under the radiator, and had a metal shop bend me up a front cross member to fit the frame horns out of 1/4 inch plate to look like a stock bumper and used all the stock mounting holes for the bumper. My front rails do not twist now and I have never had any road wonder or death wobble. Your front bumper does not look to stout to me, and I don't see a front cross member. Also what is the degree on the springs at the point that the spring pads sit on the springs with the Jeep sitting level, most that I have measured are at 4 degrees which helps determine your castor. Are your shackles flexing also when you turn the wheel? As, for me I would go shackle reversal before going to coils with wishbones and stuff. Hope you can get it figured out with out too much trouble.

 

I left the stock front CJ-5 cross member, it's under the winch mount. The bumper is 3/16 stainless bolted to the front frame horns. When I turn the wheel most if not all the movement seems to be where the shackle pivots in the frame mounts. I can see how a shackle reversal would seriously help. I noticed in your pictures it looks like your shackles fit tight against the pivot mounts. Are they as tight as they look?

 

hers is what i did on mine i did a shackle reversal an it took all the wordering out of it atlest till i bent my drak link an tie rod but after i stratend it out still no woundering ill post a pic in a few

 

The new ones drove just fine ... wander is a problem of wear or improper setup. If you put everything back to stock, and nothing is worn out or broken, you should be able to drive as fast as you dare without worrying about wander.

Stock shackles would help the flexing problem. It should not be an issue. The shackle length makes for a longer lever arm. Also check that you don't have a broken frame.

 

I'm no expert on front ends by any means, but I'm pretty sure that on mine, the bushings have a small lip on the outer ends that goes between the spring and the shackle and the perch and the shackle. From the pics, it almost looks like your shackles are right up against the perch and the spring. Maybe that is affecting something? I've got greaseable poly bushings, so maybe they are different, just thought I would mention it, though.

 

Maybe it was mentioned but, did you inspect the rear end for something broke?

 

Those shackles are aftermarket and are heavy duty and they due fit tite. I noticed something in your picture of the lines coming out of the power steering box, are those hard lines made out of copper or is it just the picture. The reason I ask, is that when I was 20 years old and I did my first power steering conversion I was in a hurry and could not find the correct hose to mate up to my pump, so I bent and flared some copper tubing. Gee, it worked for awhile and then the vibration broke that copper line. Whow, did oil go everwhere! So, just asking cause if they are copper they will break.

 

Mine drives great at 60 on the highway. The only problems are getting on and off the throttle with the rear locker. Causes it to swerve a slight bit. But I know it and actually compensate automatically now.

 

Okay, here we go! Lots of good comments. The power steering lines are steel. I could not find what I needed so I took thelines off a Malibu wagon and straightened them to fit. Wroked great. It was a slow process to not kink the lines but it worked perfect. I biult my shackles and thought they were plenty heavy. However, I did wonder about the bushings not having a lip on them. That is where most of my movement is. I do think the dart I get when I let off the throttle is from the rear posi. It is a limited slip Dana but it really holds tight. I think the power steering gear brace is a good idea. I've seen several guys with cracked frames and I think this would help. I have that on my list of add-on's. Since I have posted this I have devised a plan. YJ springs with a shackle inversion and a YJ sway bar. I am also moving my rear springs to the outside of the frame. I've lost enough sleep over this to not take a new approach! I layed on my garage floor again today and twisted the steering shaft and watched the springs rock back and forth in the skackle mounts! Enough is enough. Thanks for all the great ideas and I will post my progress. This has actually been interesting reading all the suggestions.

 

Question.

I have a winch kind of like yours.
What is weird my winch is right up next to my grill. Why do you have 6 inches between the winch and grill?

Is your frame extended?

I agree you need to re-enforce the two frame rails.

Also tighten up your bolts, I had that problem once.

 

Neither of mine wander bad... with that said I cut black jeep some slack on driving properties because of the swampers. Your jeep should track straight without having to be held in place by the steering. Caster, camber and toe are critical. Ball joint, wheel bearing and tie rod ends are also critical. Extended shackle length will take the caster out of a stock axle and cause all kinds of headaches. I have also read that Ball Joint adjustment can cause that issue but have no first hand knowledge. Something about the load distribution between the upper and lower ball joint....

 

If the shackles are moving side to side, either your bushings are shot, you have the wrong bushings, or the bolts aren't tight enough. You mentioned that your bushings don't have a lip. Here's something you could try...Take the shackles apart and put a washer between the shackle and the spring mount to act as a lip (temporarily). If there's any slop in there, this should soak it up.

 

If you look at his frame, it is not a Flat-Fender Jeep frame. It is a later model looking frame to me, so the front frame horns would be longer. Just what I see, don't know for sure.