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MIG and thin sheet metal

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by DanStew, Mar 19, 2006.

  1. Mar 19, 2006
    DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    Lexington, South...
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    Really ticks me off :( I was trying to weld in a patch for my fenders and i kept on burning through even at the lowest setting. Boy it is tedious. Possibly i had too thin of sheet metal. But it was also the old fender metal. I know it was thin but i thoguht i got the fender cut away to the good stuff. Fortunately it is done, not that pretty, but i built it up enough with a piece of copper on th ebackside, and just sanded it down. Will have to use a bit of bondo to smooth it entirely. But hey it is a trail jeep ;) Just had to vent.
     
  2. Mar 19, 2006
    tinker

    tinker GNGPN

    winnipeg,manitoba...
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    Have you tried using .023 hard wire with shielding gas.The small hard wire penetrates much less than fluxcore without gas.
     
  3. Mar 19, 2006
    Chris Insull

    Chris Insull All roads lead me back to the beach... 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chesapeake, VA.
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    I'm running into the same issues as well on my trailer. Just replaced the lower 2" across the front panel yesterday, and had the same thing happen on the last pass! Thankfully the "re" patch is in a "won't show" area. I've been using .030 flux core, but will be going with Argon/ CO2 and .023 wire very shortly. Any other tips out there from more experienced welders...?
     
  4. Mar 19, 2006
    DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    Lexington, South...
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    unfortunately i dont have gas, so the flux is cooking it a bit more. Really stinks cause i am already just barely touching and letting go, and it goes through. The machine i have only has 4 settings. Lo 1 & 2, and Hi 1 & 2, so if i had infinate controls, i may make it better. But nonetheless i am done with that part. I just kind of dread working on the samirai sheetmetal since the japanese stuff is so flimsy :( Oh well.
     
  5. Mar 19, 2006
    skeet06

    skeet06 New Member

    Pennsylvania
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    Feb 7, 2006
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    Do you have a wire speed control? On my Hobart mig, thin metal is best welded at power 1 with a fairly fast wire feed speed.
     
  6. Mar 19, 2006
    DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    Lexington, South...
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    Actually i wondered about that. I cranked the wire speed down at first, then i was still burning, I cranked it up to fast and it worked better. Given it was at the end of my patch welding, so i only used it that way for a tiny bit. But i thoguht if you had more wire it would be hotter. Guess not :)
     
  7. Mar 19, 2006
    oldjeep

    oldjeep Sisyphus at work

    Victoria, MN
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  8. Mar 19, 2006
    Chris Insull

    Chris Insull All roads lead me back to the beach... 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chesapeake, VA.
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    X2. I'll be trying the lowest power with a faster wire speed on my next patch made with flux core...
     
  9. Mar 20, 2006
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
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    One thing I'll add. Someone mentioned making a pass. When doing sheet metal, you tack, spot to spot, w/ at least an inch between. You should be on the trigger no more than a second. Low heat and moderate wire speed. Work your way around the panel, filling in as you go. No beads here and its not pretty welding. Make it pretty when your done w/ a flap disc and body filler. The less heat means less warp means less body filler.:v6:
     
  10. Mar 20, 2006
    DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    Lexington, South...
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    Even just tacking i was going through. That is what was bugging me the most. Was so careful and it still burned WWWWWWWWAAAAAAAAAA :(

    OK Better now :)

    Thanks for the tips everyone!!
     
  11. Mar 20, 2006
    Dummy

    Dummy I kick hippies

    Escondido, CA
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    If you're able to reach the back side of what you're welding on you can use a piece of aluminum to absorb a lot of the heat and prevent the blow through.

    I bought a few scrap pieces of 1-inch thick aluminum to do the trick. I've also used an old aluminum forged piston for corners and tight areas. Hold (or have a helper hold) the aluminum tight against the sheetmetal on the backside as you weld. You'll be suprised.
     
  12. Mar 20, 2006
    DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    Lexington, South...
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    I used a piece of copper clamped on the workpiece and that did help. that is the saving grace of this little project, i forced the metal to come together ;)
     
  13. Mar 20, 2006
    mikieboy

    mikieboy Member

    Jacksonville, FL
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  14. Apr 3, 2006
    NoFlyZone

    NoFlyZone Member

    Ridgeville, SC
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    I used .35 with a Lincoln 135 on the C setting and the speed turned about 3/4s to fill some extra screw holes in my body tub.

    I used a 1/8 drill bit to make sure it was clean and stuck a piece of the same wire through the hole before welding around it. When I wsa trying to fill the holes before as soon as the wire arced it would blow pea size hole out.
     
  15. Apr 3, 2006
    DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    Lexington, South...
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    Interesting site with the 20 gauge wire. Wonder where i could get some? I do belive i am running pretty thick wire, i will proably go by Northern to see what they have in smaller gauge. I am going to patch the hoels in the samruai while i have the interior gutted, it would be way easier than putting it back together then ripping it apart again :(
     
  16. Apr 3, 2006
    neptco19

    neptco19 That guy....

    Athens, GA
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    Dan on the welders that we use at school we turn the heat down and the line speed UP. On a miller 175 usually set it about 2-3 heat and 50-60 line speed. Works great for tacking and welding the thinner stuff.
     
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