1963 Cj5

I looked at that engine when it first popped up on the CL- and I appreciate you for checking out the local listings, too! I passed on the engine due to it needing a "freshening up".

Free = pay for it in the long run IMHO. Life is kinda like that, pay up front, or in the long run.

I'll be checking the gear ratio on the axles in due time, the steeper the gearing, the better if I have to swap in a 4 banger. The cj5 will serve as a 'go getter' on the property:

 

Thank you! There are two totes of parts and the buckets/trim rings are in one of the totes.

 

The front clip is off- pretty easy to do since someone else has been here recently. The bolts were new stainless steel bolts n washers.


The driver’s side lug nuts were standard “lefty losey righty tighty” as opposed to older jeeps where they were the opposite. The hood is staying on for now as it isn’t in the way. She’s a rusty girl.


I am missing one glass turn signal lense. Seems identical to the FC and Willy’s wagon/truck units.


Someone upgraded the steering to the Saginaw PS, so the grill was cut to accommodate the hoses. The front X member was notched as well.

 

That was my first clue this is not a '66.

 

The Saginaw upgrade is a plus and it looks like they gusseted the sides of the cut through the cross member so it should be just fine.

I think you scored big on this Jeep.

 

That is indeed a Buick bell housing and those are certainly 6 cylinder engine stands. If you do decide to "swap in a four banger" you will need the correct engine stands, a 4 Cylinder bell housing, and if it is a T-90 you will need to swap out the input shaft. As I said earlier the easiest, and cheapest engine installation will be to find a Buick V6 which will fit right in there without having to do a lot of work, and spend a lot of money on parts.

 

I think I know the OP from IFSJA and if I'm correct he knows his way around a jeep project. Adam is that you??

 

He mentioned it has an offset flanged rear axle. That could make it a '70-'71. Possibly has a T14 transmission.

 

Haha, yep. I was wondering if you were the same guy from the IFSJA! Still have that vigilante 327 Jeep gladiator?

 

Sure do! I've added a 2a and two CJ5s also. Can't wait to see how this one turns out for you. I'm planning a 304/T15/D20 swap into my 70 CJ5 project so I'm interested to see how yours goes

 

That’s sweet- great minds think alike, right!?! Feel free to ask questions, too, because this is my first CJ5, and I want the drivetrain right and working, then I’ll tackle the bodywork. The running-driving project phase is my favorite part of the build. Two rusty bolts were all that was keeping it on. The housing is the four piece unit identical to my M38’s set up.

Tranny cover is off, and the transmission is a “T86aa-1b” as per the casting numbers on the driver’s side.


The Buick bellhousing is off, along with the adapter to mate the tranny/engine combo together.


Next up, dust off the best tape measure and micrometer to see if the stock tranny can mate to the 304 and function properly.

The housing of the “newer” three speed is nearly identical, but obviously different casting marks for reinforcements of the housings.


Next up: Mod the firewall? Move the tranny forward enough for clearance? Go back to the drawing board to redo this potential epic fail? Gut it all to body swap a spare flat fender body? Who knows what will happen, so on to the next phase of this madness.

Edit:

Well I know what’s next up.
Option 1: different pilot bushing for the ol tranny (the tip is a different diameter).
Option 2: run the 304/three speed that’s already mated together and figure out swaping d20 t case internals & retain the Dana 18 t case: (https://www.pirate4x4.com/threads/convert-dana-20-to-dana-18.27910/)
Option 3: say “forgetaboutit” like Joe Pesci movie character and run the whole 304/3spd/d20 combo!

Onward to research on the internet.

Anyone want to chime in on their 2 cents about the above options?

 

Not. More than a few T86AA's were replaced by T90's. Both as a Kaiser warranty fix and otherwise. There are two ways of doing this: all the T86 guts swapped for T90 guts in the original T86 housing, and the thick 2 5/8" adapter with a complete T90J. The 68 I purchased from Fireball last summer appears to have the exact same set up as this Jeep, namely the T90J version and the 2 5/8's adapter. It works fine with the V6. I think the Buick 340's and 350's will also bolt to the stock V6 engine mounting brackets.

As with any Jeep build, the direction of this should be entirely dictated by the anticipated use. Big tires and big rocks don't especially pair well with either the T90 or the Dana 27 but if just moderately difficult trail is in the future without big tires, the 225/T90, and stock axles will suffice. Personally, I would be keeping a D18. I much prefer that low output and the fact that your line selection only requires providing axle clearance on one side.

As you are located in Spokane, have you tied up with fabricator extraordinaire Ryan (ITLKSEZ) yet?

And a build thread of the FC would be great!

 

Duffer, thank you; that sounds like some solid info right there. I’ll have to mull the tech information over- solid info for sure!

And no, I haven’t connected with Ryan aka “ITLKSEZ“ I’ll look into connecting with him.

edit: I found old registration paper work under the driver’s seat indicating it was a 1963 CJ5. It is actually titled as such too. My bad. I thought it was a 66 since I am pretty sure the ad said it was. I could be wrong. Sorry for the confusion.

 

I put together some spare parts and got some 285/75r16’s ready to go:


These are factory 16” Jeep j200 or j300 FSJ Gladiator rims, a set that will hold the early Kaiser, or Willy’s dog dish hubcaps. Speaking of hubcaps, I dusted off a set of knockoffs sitting on the shelf:


I’ll dial in some ink on them once I get it on the trails.. inbetween bouts of Spring rain.

Here a link to the FC 170 build for anyone interested on the FSJ Network site: https://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=17582/

I figured it was easier to post up a link as opposed to try and recount all the things I did from memory.


I’m trying to line up a few needed parts while I clean the frame. I did manage to clean and paint the firewall and the underside of the hood after a light sanding and thorough cleaning/degreasing (just self etching primer and satin black enamel):

 

You may want to mount the front tires and spin the steering wheel from lock to lock. I have a feeling they are going to foul the springs and seriously widen your turning radius.

 

Thanks, and agreed; oddly enough, the new tires are smaller/narrower than the ones that came off of it. I think the back spacing on the rims is different as is the rim width. Those differences change the shape of the tires to be more balloon-like.

I want to get the engine/tranny/t-case situated before I tackle clearance/fitment... as of now, the jack stands holding up the front end have prevented me from checking the turning radius clearance. I have a long list of things to do.

 

I did check the turning radius on the front axle and all seemed well- minus one of the tie rod nuts limiting travel one way… that will be addressed later.
It’s off stands, wheel are on, the dreaded 304 swap begins.



I ran out of daylight after work, but managed to get the engine and transmission (minus the shifter tower) in as far as I could. Even though there’s space left between the firewall and the back of the engine, it seems stuck.





I’ll get back on it tomorrow and see what is hanging it up.

 

Since the T86 is out and sans cover, is the first gear spiral cut or a spur gear? Is the main shaft spiral cut?

 

I seriously like those tires and wheels. Maybe some day I will find some for the B that will clear the disc brakes.

 

You're cruising right along! What are you planning to do for motor mounts?