Tc Crack

I found a crack at one of the holes for the Tc drain pain. It looks like it would just affect the bite of the bolt going into that hole, not the case itself. My inclination is to remove the cracked piece so it doesn’t come loose inside the TC and pretend I didn’t know it was there.
Thoughts?

 

Your plan sounds good to me.
Just throwing out ideas now...
If the damage portion separates easily, consider a JB weld fix to put it back.
You might also try installing a heli-coil after removal of the damaged portion.
It just might 'take' and offer some support. I'd only tighten it to about 1/2 torque, though.

 

Thats probably the start of something worse. Keep an eye on it!

 

I’m trying to imagine why that would’ve happened. Was that bolt head smeared like it hit a rock?

 

You " might" get that to seal up using a cast aftermarket pan. Doubtful with the stocker.
Cases are easy enough to economically source, swap the guts over if it's otherwise in good shape. A Novak rebuild kit isn't expensive.
Why take a chance..

 

Some times, life makes decisions easy. This took no force.
As to why it happened, the end of the socket where that bolt goes is scalloped out to hold the high-low gear. Plus it is right next to the rear output, so maybe some extra torque on the case plus an overtorqued bolt? I’m glad I found it before it came off and broke teeth.
I’m going to call Novak and see what they say, but I suspect I will get enough grip with the 2/3 remaining threads to torque it down half load. I will definitely check on the rigid pan. I think Novak makes those.

 

Cannot tell if there is enough room in the picture. But could you drill another hole just on either side or both sides of the failed bolt hole and retap it and drill new matching holes in the cover?
Also might thread a stud in the remaining hole and weld the broken spot stud and all ,so a nut could be used to hold the pan.

 

Doesn't someone make a reinforced plate for the pan?

 

Jeff p. On the 2a page was making some with the gears, I think big willy or some other guy has them but why?.. when you can get a full cast aluminum high capacity (runs cooler) pan. We aren't looking for strength on this one.
Personally I think you need a stud that won't ever come out. Two part epoxy or solder and a well prepped hole.

 

That Novak high-capacity pan does not work with the factory skid plate...at least it didn't with mine. I had to send it back.

 

X2

 

I think drilling holes may weaken the case. That part of the case is built up on the inside to accept the bolt. I like the idea of putting in a stud.

JB weld? What about red locktite?

 

Not the same. They harden and bond differently. You can take two parts and bond them in epoxy then machine it as one.

Did you know the Wright flyer flew several years with a cracked engine block?

 

Welding cast iron has come a long way. It may be possible to have a stud welded in to what threads are left.

 

Another that would not be drilling any more holes. Those cases usually break between the intermediate shaft bore and the PTO port when stressed enough. The rear bearing cap adds some support where this broke. I'd probably clean that real well and JB Weld a stud there. Nothing much lost if it doesn't work.

 

I got the Novak billet oil pan and I’m not so sure I need to do anything to reinforce the threaded hole. The bolt feels pretty darn secure. Am I completely off base on this?

 

I don’t know if you’re off base or not. Once you’re done it’s not going to be a bolt you are constantly or even often removing and replacing but I think a stud would keep it out of the back of your mind.

 

Nate , AKA garage gnome , offered us all his Cast Iron welding skills . It's in the Members Market forum here. However, He is located prittinear across the Country from Y'all, but Hey.......Ya never know !

 

Looking at it again, it is definitely an oil leak waiting to happen.
Stud with jb weld would probably remove that likelihood, at least it seems that way to me.