52 M38a1 Motor Pool Resto

Pete, let's go fording together this summer. You first, I'll be right behind you buddy!

 

OK, rear brakes are a wrap from the master back;

Yes crush washer installed between the hose and tee. I could see perhaps how some folks could miss that important detail.

Driver's side view.

Passenger side view.

Front view.

I'm short one of these hard line clamps. I'd have to rifle around but I think I have a few tucked away somewhere. I don't throw away stuff like that! Two are required for the front axle tube on the driver's side. Just one is required in the rear, also driver's side. There may be some in the 58 parts jeep out back too.

I ordered 1/4" cotton/asphalt loom today needed for the front axle hard lines. Funny how 4 inches of stupid loom brings completing the brakes to a screeching halt. Oh well, plenty of other things to do....Pete

 

You must be exhausted!

Sorry, couldn’t help it.

 

Nice Shaun...!

 

So I went to install these takeoff rear axle bumpers onto the frame. There was something bothering me about them.

They seemed too tall to me. Turns out that all of these are correct for the rear axle. Took me a while but found correct front axle bumpers on the shelf, in a box marked 'suspension'. I need to work on my organization....

It's hard for me to open packages which were sealed 14 years before I was born. This was an appropriate time to open these.

Take off on the left. G740 was the army's designation for M38A1's predecessor, the M38. There are many parts which are interchangeable between those two models.

I broke the seal....

NOS on left, takeoff on right destined for storage.

 

I'm amazed at all of the NOS parts you keep pulling out!

 

I'm as much opportunistic as I am frugal (or some would say cheap). If I see a good deal on something and I'm pretty sure I'll use, I grab it. And if I use that part, I begin the search to replace it at a reasonable price. If it's a hard to find part at a great deal, I buy it. I sometimes buy multiples of the same item such as seals and bearings....think consumables. I sell parts on occasion but my strategy is to think about my next project. I'm not getting out of the hobby anytime soon. I've scrapped parts in the past that I'm kicking myself in the pants for now.

For instance, I had an opportunity to buy two ventilating windshields, one of them being incomplete but both needing work. So I acquired inner seals for both (not a good deal, ouch) leaving one on the shelf for future use. I bought those windshields knowing that one would be used short term while I search for latches and lollipops for the other (I would love to hear from anyone who has these parts by the way). So that's my strategy. I'm in it for the long game. I've given up my deepest secrets.

The problem is that I spend a fair amount of time looking for parts that I may or may not have on the shelf, compounded by the fact that I'm somewhat of a slob. A friend of mine recently said I need a curator for the parts (Are you volunteering? You know who you are!) But with few exceptions, NOS parts will not lose value and a vast majority exceed the quality of aftermarket parts made today. Would I buy a NOS master or brake cylinders....probably not. Rubber parts can be a crap shoot if their safety related. NOS carb...probably not....Unless it was a good price.

 

You probably know this but I believe at least the lollipops were also used in other M-series vehicles, such as the M-37.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3328349454...l4N8MrzYysK0O7dCSH83IJNchv|tkp:Bk9SR9TBkZm1Yw

 

I appreciate the tip Pete. I did not know....

 

Back to the build. Starting on the little body work that's required on this jeep. I think I bought this about 12-14 years ago....

Been a while since I've used this.

It was in the bowels of the tool chest. Not often used but necessary once in a while. The bit on the left has seen better days. Obviously I didn't oil it up before the last use and it's a bit boogered. I'll switch it out.

Nice sharp bit on the right. Allen key is needed to swap it out along with the pilot bit. A sharp bit on the arbor makes this work a pleasure.

 

They do work very well. They make sheet metal work much easier.

Dave

 

I'm replacing a partially rotted hat channel, passenger's side beneath the toe board. I'm glad that this is the worst of the body work but at the same time, this is the stuff I find most satisfying.

Pre-op....It's actually worse than it looks here.

So, I like to feel around with a finger tip to locate the spot welds. I take a punch and mark where to drill a pilot hole. Go easy with the spot weld cutter...nice and slow. Have a beer. See the little ridge of rust on the cutting hole? We're getting close to finishing the cut.

Take a screw driver and gently pry the spot welds you've cut. Don't force it. Cut a bit more and not too deep. Your bit should produce nice big shavings if you're doing it right.

Most of the time, you can hear a little pop or feel the difference a change in resistance while you're finishing with the cut. Screw driver is your friend. Pry gently, watch and listen. The goal should be to get the part out so you can duplicate it. I had the luxury of not needing to but a good habit to get into.

DeBella's parts are hard to beat. Pretty sure he sources them from Classic Enterprises but whatever. It was $20.00 but would have taken me hours to reproduce at half the quality. Post op;

Post op again;

I still need to grind and get things cleaned up but my impression of the fitment is quite positive;

There's a little brace at the junction of each hat channel. I just need to get to the drill press with a small semi-circular with a hole saw bit to make it happen. They were not using MIG's at the Willy's plant in 1952! Look at that splatter. But their work has stood the test of time.

Of course, zinc primer between the parts before buttoning things up. I'll post more.....Pete

 

I use zinc primer, but it's hard to get good spraying cans. That wood held in moisture.

Dave

 

I've had this can for more than a decade if that helps....Not a promotion but for the little I've needed it, it's always worked Dave.

As far as I can tell, there was no wood in that particular channel. The wood in the curved channel it adjoined to is solid. Go figure.

 

I was just going to say that, as I just confirmed the arms on my 3B ventilating windshield are the same as my M37.

I also wanted to say that I can relate to the NOS parts quest. And swap meets like our Camp Plymouth out west is a great place for deals. Most sellers are at really good price points, below retail, and haggling is encouraged.

 

Possibly the latches too, but I'm not 100% certain without researching further.

 

Good intel confirmed by two reliable sources. Excellent. But don't encourage me to come out west on a parts quest. You might find me pitching a tent in your back yard!

 

Blalp!, do you have a close op pic of those latches handy?????

 

Not a problem. Also the latches are the same as M-series. I should have mentioned that.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3529798605...a=1&pg=2351460&_trksid=p2351460.c100667.m2042