Patching Holes in the Tub

Like a lot of older jeeps my tub has lots of holes. Too many. So many that on one wet trip my camping gear was getting muddy from mud getting in through the holes. Needing new taillights and some minor body work as well I wasn't going to put it off any longer.

Actually I did this work about two years ago but never got around to posting it. A thread on this topic was recently started so I figured I'd better get it posted.



Like I said, lots of holes.

The taillight panels had suffered from a previous tub mounted tire carrier and old patchwork.



Years ago just after buying my jeep I purchased a Hobart 135 MIG welder. I never could have got by without it. It is likely the most efficient way to plug holes. Below is a copper paddle from HF. Backing with that makes the job easier.



Another must have tool for restoration bodywork is a spotweld cutter. I got mine from Eastwood. It cuts a clean circular hole releasing the spotweld. This method saves adjacent sheetmetal. In fact the holes it leaves are handy for plug welding in new metal.

The old panel has been removed. Not in a hurry to put the new one in. You want to think several steps ahead. Nobody wants to take time to tear out something that they just installed.



In looking at where the rear cage hoop mounts I figured it would be best to just replace some sheetmetal instead of filling holes. This is easier since I didn't weld in the taillight panel yet.



I carefully mark where the cuts will be. The dashed line is where the reinforcing rib is beneath. Once I'm happy with what I see I'll start cutting.

 

The cutout piece is used as a pattern for the new sheetmetal. On three sides you'll notice an offset. That was done with a HF pneumatic panel flanger. Another very handy tool for restoration bodywork.



Once I'm happy with the fitment I'll stitch weld it in place. This again is not something to rush. A short bead and let it cool. I've always found this works best if you have something else to work on while it's cooling.

I was spot puttying other blemishes as well.



Below I'm spotwelding on the support bracket onto the new taillight panel. You can buy the panel with the bracket already welded on but I bought them separate as I wanted to control placement for a perfect fit. I got the panels from Classic Enterprises and I'm glad I went the route. Even with a simple piece like that unless you have a quality shear and brake it is just not worth the time to fabricate it yourself. Classic Enterprises produces top quality pieces and keeps adding to what they sell. Made in the USA. Mine was even signed by the guy who made them.



Here's a view from inside the wheelwell. Dry fitting to be sure everything is just right before turning the welder on.

 

Once all the welding is done, grind it smooth with a zirconia grinding disc. Again, be careful about how much heat you are generating. Too much and you warp the metal. Spot putty if needed and prime.

By this time I needed to see progress like this. It's tedious but worthwhile.



The taillight panel with cutouts for the new LED taillights.



Below is the result. Kinda hard to see but I also put on smooth steel corner armor. The LED lights are recessed through both the armor and the body metal. Keeping the cutouts and mounting holes all aligned was tricky. But again, not rushing through helps in getting it right the first time.



Well, the left side is done. That was the easy side.

 

Nice work using good technology. Congrats.

 

The right side really needed work.



Again, so many holes were the rear cage hoop mounts I had to just cut it away. In looking at all those holes I can see this jeep has had it's fair share of roll bars over the years.



This is were progress slowed. Had a hard time getting power tools into that cramped space. The additional inner spare tire brace crowded the work area. You can see the 3/8" holes from the spotweld cutter. I was slightly off center on a few of them and had a challenge getting that little bit of metal loose. Another all-purpose handy tool is a die grinder with a carbide burr. I avoid using it because of the tiny steel slivers that it sprays all over. But when I put it to work it always does what I need and does it quickly. Take precautions before hand to contain the slivers and clean it up immediately afterward.



Finally got that piece loose. It ready for cleaning and prep.



I removed all paint were there will be welding. Clean metal makes for a clean bead.






I never did count how many holes there were. Just the top of the left wheelhouse had 32. I didn't bother counting after that. Small holes could be filled with just the copper paddle. The larger ones I trimmed 18 gauge scrap to fit, held from the back with a magnet while tacking. It takes time but if you want good result you just need to bear down and do the work.



Patch panel welded in.



Fast forward. All the grinding is done and several coats of primer is on. Notice that little steel tube is missing from near the front of the wheelhouses. From the original soft top. Don't need it so I cut them away and put in new metal. Kind of like a steel "dutchman".



I finished it off with a coat of Rustoleum Truck Bed Liner. It has less texture than most liner coatings. Some are almost dangerously rough. And as with all my finishes it's from a rattle can so touching up trail rash is easy. After seeing the finished result I quickly forgot about the labor involved.



Now that the new taillights are in place it is time to take care of the permanently temporary wiring. A single wiring harness will run from the inside of the firewall, be tucked up under the tub lip, all the way to the back corner. Then down through the wheelhouse top with a 90 degree conduit fitting. Then branching out to each location with weatherproof connectors. As with all of my electrical system I plan it out on paper. I calculate the maximum amperage on each circuit, figure out what gauge based on run length, then increase to the next larger gauge just to be safe.



I had used a piece of twine to trace the route and taped a marker a each branch location. Then just transferred that to a layout board. Making harnesses like this is a snap.





Inside of the wheelwells were undercoated as the underside of the rear tub had been done when I replaced the stiffening rib previously. All the wiring just snapped in place. There is even a pigtail already in place should I ever need to add a 7 blade trailer connector. With the new LED taillights installed there is a connection all the way forward to the front bumper where I've installed a trailer connector socket (7 blade female). My tow bar is hardwired with a male/male connector. So when I flat tow I just attach the tow bar, make the electrical connection from jeep to tow bar and tow bar to truck and all the lights on the jeep work while towing. Even the bright back up lights when in reverse. I did need to install a converter as my truck has 2 channel stop/turn as most do and the jeep has 3 channel. (I wanted the yellow turn lamps). I also found I needed to go back and put a double pole on/on switch to isolate the turn signal switch on the jeep steering column. On the original try there was current feedback through the turn signal switch.

Below you can see four hex nuts. What I see is my next project to tie the cage into the frame. But that's another project and another thread.

 

Oh, one more picture from the trail.

 

Excellent write-up! Thank you for taking the time to share this info!

Did you make the rear bumper?

 

great write up! Thank you for your insight, it will help out quite a few of us who are getting ready to tackle this project. Your Jeep looks great by the way, I really like your rear swing out bumper! Any other pics of the Jeep?

 

Yes, I made the front & rear bumper, rear tire carrier/gear rack, roll cage, etc, etc, etc.
As far as the swing out tire carrier/gear rack, if you have specific questions just ask.
If I had one piece of advice as far as the swing out. Make additional attachment points.
Just above the tub I made these rods to attach to the rear hoop of the cage. It gives tremendous mechanical advantage. My swing out does not even wiggle. With tire, air compressor, shovel, maddox & EMPTY jerry cans it weights 244 pounds.

 

Wow! very nice write up indeed! Great work...tedious attention to detail. Kudos!

 

I love the idea of the extra support for the spare tire carrier welded to the roll bar. I might use that when I fabricate mine. I have no tailgate, so It doesn't need to swing out though.

 

Wow Joe, very cool, what a nice job, and a great looking Jeep. When I done mine I made inner fenders to cover the tail lights so mud wouldn't fly up into the corners where the wires are. The Camp I am in uses Brine for dust control in summer, so I didn't want mud building up in the corners. That Jeep is Awesome, for lack of a better word.

 

Could you share your diagram of your rear tire swing out?

 

I dont have any drawings. Usually I have the idea in my head and just measure, cut and assemble as I go.

 

Sweet job on this. Gave me some great ideas.

 

You have done an awesome job. If you don't mind could you go in to a little detail how you removed the tail light panels. I understand the removal of the spot welds in most areas, but I'm wondering how you removed the area around the tail gate surround. I want to have a good understanding before I tackle the job. Thank you for the information.

 

Labeeman, The top of the tail gate surround was the most work. I obviously wanted to as little damage as possible. I ground down the top with an angle grinder until I could see the various components. You can see the two perpendicular cuts made with a die grinder and cut-off wheel. Hit as many easy points as possible. Then it's a matter of finding whats holding it on, attack that, then move to the next.