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I'm going to rebuild the steering knuckles

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by speedbuggy, Sep 24, 2004.

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  1. Sep 24, 2004
    speedbuggy

    speedbuggy Looking for a Jeep now

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    That's cool. I just need to find a supplier now with all the parts I will need and I can get going on this. Targeting 2nd or 3rd weekend in October for the rebuild. I should probably schedule the entire weekend for it since it is my first rebuild.
     
    speedbuggy, Sep 24, 2004
    #21
  2. Sep 24, 2004
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    http://www.jeepdoc.com

    Just follow the procedure in the FSM and it will all fall into place!
    In the event you have difficulty tho, you know where to come for help! ;)
     
    w3srl, Sep 24, 2004
    #22
  3. Sep 25, 2004
    66cj5

    66cj5 Jeep with no name

    NorthWest Indiana
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    the seals I got form napa, are a ONE piece rubber design. NO FELT, NO TWO PIECES! This is how everyones' seals leak, as there is a gap on the top AND bottom, mine have the gap on the TOP (no leaks) :rofl:. All the other ones I found used felt, or were two piece. :mad: I also prefer oil over grease, as it cleans up easier. 8)
     
    66cj5, Sep 25, 2004
    #23
  4. Sep 25, 2004
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    The felt is simply a wiper that goes on outside of the actual seal. The seal itself is a steel-reinforced rubber deal that has to be split at the 12 o'clock position in order to get it over the ball on the axle tube. In this order, the rubber seal goes over the ball and seats into the backside of the knuckle. Then the felt wiper goes on over top of the seal and then the steel half-moon plates bolt on to hold it all in place. Resist the temptation to move the knuckle in the king pins until everything is bolted down to spec, because the slightest movement will dislodge the rubber seal and you won't know it until you refill the knuckles and they leak like a sieve!
     
    w3srl, Sep 25, 2004
    #24
  5. Sep 25, 2004
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
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    You set the bearing preload before you put the seals on, unless I'm misunderstanding what you typed Steve.
     
    sparky, Sep 25, 2004
    #25
  6. Sep 25, 2004
    speedbuggy

    speedbuggy Looking for a Jeep now

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    Thanks for the site Steve! It looks as if they have everything that I need.
     
    speedbuggy, Sep 25, 2004
    #26
  7. Jan 4, 2005
    speedbuggy

    speedbuggy Looking for a Jeep now

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    Bringing this thread back to life. I just called Krage and it will run me about $150 for the parts I need. I guess I'll need a fish scale too so add that in. Here is the list of parts I was told that I'll need by Gary at Krage:

    Inner and Outer bearings and races
    2 inner axle seals
    Knuckle seals (includes the felt, rubber and steel)
    2 lockout hub gaskets

    1)Is this all I need to purchase?

    2) Assume that I own no tools. What will I need to accomplish this task? (besides a fish scale and a blue tip wrench)
     
    speedbuggy, Jan 4, 2005
    #27
  8. Jan 4, 2005
    Hawk62cj5

    Hawk62cj5 Captain of OldSchool

    Brodnax Va.
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    The kinpin bearings were 14.50 a peice , mine the races had roller groves wore into them. I did mine last week went pretty easy , about 2.5 hours worth of time. That was includeing the time it took to gring the anti theft lug nuts off and the 11 inch brake swap. The best I could tell it cost me about 125 bucks for every thing inclueding the axel grease i filled the knuckle with. It took alot of sanding to get my knuckle smooth so you might want to stock up on sand paper lol. and becarfull getting that big seal on mine was a pain.
     
    Hawk62cj5, Jan 4, 2005
    #28
  9. Jan 4, 2005
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    Just basic hand tools. The only hiccup I had was that one of the upper kingpin studs came out instead of the nut coming off. I just reinstalled it with a dab of bearing & stud mount adhesive and it all went back together fine.

    Sparky, you are correct. My bad. The preload is set without the seals in place. What I meant to say is that once you start putting the seals and wipers in place, DON'T move the knuckle until you have all the bolts at least snug. If you do, the seal wil pop out and you will have to start over again. Ask me how I know! :rofl:
     
    w3srl, Jan 4, 2005
    #29
  10. Jan 4, 2005
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
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    Dennis, as said previously, do the knuckle stud conversion while it's apart. Studs are something like $1.50/each... do a search, someone had p/ns, prices, source and qty (IIRC, one or two bolts don't get replaced)
    Got a torque wrench?

    Good luck, keep us posted!
     
    lynn, Jan 4, 2005
    #30
  11. Jan 4, 2005
    aklimko

    aklimko New Member

    Uniontown, PA
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    don't forget the big socket, I can't remember what size it is. or you can use the old screw driver and hammer like the PO used on mine. What a pain that was to get off.
     
    aklimko, Jan 4, 2005
    #31
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