Would love a little help with axles, T-case and trans

So my project is starting to come along and being new to old CJ's I would love a bit of help identifying my axles, Transmission and T-case. I bought this in basically the condition that you will see it in and know little about these bad a** old rigs. It is a 62, but I have no clue as to what is original and what was swapped, all would have been done by PO.

Here is how she sits now.




Here is the front axle with the tag cleaned.


Here is the rear axle with the tag cleaned.


And here are a group of photos of tcase and trans.








Also, here is the stuff that I have gotten for it thus far.

305 out of 86 Iroc to replace the dusted 283.


Best top CJ5 seats, dirty from being in the shop but good condition after a wash.


A set of good condition fenders.


Thanks for all of your help on this and input/ideas.

 

Dana 27 front if closed knuckle. If open knuckle a 30. Can't tell on the rear. Should be a 44. If you can post a pic of the cover and axle housing ends I can Id it. I never go by tags as they get switched around on vehicles. 18 transfer case with an overdrive. Can't tell what brand of overdrive by the pic on my phone. Score on that one if in useable shape. Looks like a T-90 3 speed transmission but can't tell for sure.


Sent from my iPhone

 

Love that steering device....

 

Looks like a Warn od. Like Nick said great score.

 

Lol, there is an actual steering wheel somewhere in a box! But vice grips suffice when pushing it around the yard... Once under it's own power, maybe not

 

Looks like an old build..................Older Warn Overdrive and like Nick stated looks like a T-90 with an old metal adapter to the Bell housing and someone did a Saginaw gear box up front...........Good Luck!

 

Best pics that I have right now.

Front



Rear

 

In the pic that says the tag is cleaned up go down from the tag and to the right there is a 44 embossed in the web there. That is a D44 rear axle.

Is there not a shifter for tha overdrive? Should be a fourth lever somewhere, either in line with all the other shifters (should be right between the gear shift and the transfer case selectors). Although I suppose some enterprising soul put it between the seats.

 

Closed knuckle 27 front and tapered axle 44 rear. The latest pics helped with the Id.


Sent from my iPhone

 

Yes- early Dana 44 with the tapered axles. The tag suggests a 5:38 ratio, which was common in 1962. the front is a model 27. It appears to have the later style 9" bendix style brakes. The warn hubs are correct old style. It should have a 1.25 inch shaft model 18 tranfer case, which is 29 tooth (you can measure the shaft right beside the overdrive to verify. The overdrive is wonderful, as long as it works.

 

picture 1
steering upgrade - saginaw? very nice to have.
also the tie rod is not stock, solid piece from knuckle to knuckle.
front shackles are not stock.
wheels are not stock.

picture 2
seat frames are desireable, do not toss, there are those around this board that will want them.
rear shackles match the front.
dash is not stock, most have tooo many holes in them.

picture 3
looks like there is a fender piece covering the engine compartment.

picture 4 and 5
I would believe the tags, covers clean, painted and matching, kind of spooky.

picture 6
warn overdrive, paianted, bet it works if you can find the shifter (not in any of the pictures)
front shifter, see later picture.

picture 7
break or cultch upgrade? what ever it is it is new, not stock, close sort of to stock.
the ribs on the transfer case, never noticed those before

picture 8
drive shaft angle is a bit steep.
no oil dripping from the transfer case, must check to see if oil is in it.

picture 9
nice bell housing paint.

picture 10
I believe that the transfer case is not a 1.5" intermediate shaft.
the break/clutch linkage picture shows a spot for the bolt that is not there on my 1.5" shaft version.
the mounting here is earlier than the large shaft that I am familiar with.
new speedo cable.

picture 11 and 12
floor pans have been modified or replaced.
no signs of an overdrive shifter or hole for one.
saw a picture here somewhere that had a pull push lever on the dash for the overdrive. never seen that before.

picture 14
nice seats, newer than 62,
repeat --- do not toss the seat frames in the back.

picture 15
look at the fenders, if there is a rectangle on the side at the top of the wheel hole then the fenders are mid 70ish or newer and may have fit issues depending how newer they are.

picture 16 and 17
shows the tie rod upgrade to a solid piece, and maybe a bit bigger also.
the spring count is 8 and I have not seen that type of tie for the springs.
the shocks suggest spring lift kit.

picture 18
look close at the overdrive shift area, top right of the over drive, looks like front shifter, early type.

I say that you have way tooo much motor to put in a CJ5.

 

Feel free to not answer, or rather give a half-a** answer, but what did this cost you? I'm always wondering what people are getting their Jeeps for. Maybe there should be a thread on that...

 

Not an issue. Keep in mind that I am a bit of a craigslist whore and swoop on good deals even when I don't need them, to re-sell or store for later. That is how I ended up with this. I traded an older tablet computer for a mossberg 835 shotgun that I didn't need. Then I was under 'auto parts' on craigslist and I use the keyword 'trade' as my search word. This jeep popped up for trade for 'firearms'. So I gave the guy my unwanted shotgun and, I think, $400 cash. I found the seats for $100 bucks and in chatting with the seat owner discovered that he was a CJ guy and had a few other parts that I needed. I got the front fenders from a 66 (maybe), tail lights that I needed and all the seats for $170. The 283 that is in it currently was supposed to have been a fresh rebuild, never run, but my shop guy got it running and told me it has a serious knock down low and unmatched heads that leaked oil like crazy, so he suggested I get another sbc for it rather than rebuild. Hence the 305 I picked up from a wrecked 86' iroc with a 700r trans for $400 delivered to the shop. I plan to resell the trans for a few hundred and recover most of my cost. I have picked up a few other odds and ends, plan to do the body work and paint myself, and total into it I am sure that I am about $1,000 into it. This is a budget minded build, but I spring on good deals. I like to think of craigslist as my 75% off sale when I stay on checking it twice per day. If I miss a few days I always miss good stuff.

The craigslist trick, for me, is using abnormal search words. Often you will find people that have ended up with stuff that they don't want. Here are my typical search words, outside of the obvious. "divorce, inherited, wife says, garage space, lost interest, must go, need money, lost job, need gone, ect" If you search these words everyday you will run into deals that you cannot believe. I have purchased 2 full drive trains, and 1 additional engine out of modern mustang cobras for less than $2000 total. 1 of which I resold a few months later when I decided I didn't want it, for $1500. My family expenses do not allow me to spend my work income on my projects so I have to afford my projects through good old fashioned frugality and bartering. Even my mechanic is on trade, lol

 

Now, that is an informative answer. Thanks much

 

That's great. I'm on Craigslist far too often as well, but I'm rarely trading or selling anything back. Probably should start

 

Nope, 305 will work just fine with the t90/D18 and the axles and it should have noteably more torque than the 283 on the bottom end due to the long stroke. You can break anything if you try hard enough but with a little common sense, that will work.

The painted diff cover makes me wonder if maybe a PowrLoc or some other traction devise resides in there.

 

One other thing: you will want a short water pump like what is probably on the 283. You could probably just run the 283 pump, but those are cheap enough that I will always replace them while its torn down. And stick with the v belts-much more forgiving if you don't get the alignment perfect-that and the fact that you will likely end up using all aftermarket brackets if you go serpentine.

 

The tags indicate open diffs but who knows what lurks inside now.....

 

great od. if you dont want. i will be glad to take it off your hands . also if you are going to use that sbc the t90 will not stand the hp jeep looks great hope you finish it