Will boxing the frame prevent spring mount/frame cracking??

Dan this is just mho, if in doubt get a new frame.
Boxing will slow the flex or stop it completly. No flex no crack.
If it was me, I'd go new.

 

Build one if you have the time, it would most likely save you a bunch of money unless you bought another used frame. 2x4x.120

 

You know I have given this alot of thought lately and I think that one of the major reasons that these old frames crack as much as they do is all the modifications that are done in replacing the bumpers and such with much stiffer and heavier units plus all the weight and crap that is added to these lightweight frames. Think about adding a very stiff heavy front bumper to these flexy frames which puts them in a bind since they can no longer flex as they were designed, the same goes with the rear. Mine although it is slightly bent is totally stock in the way it was built with respect to the bumpers and such and has no cracks in it, and mine has been wheeled harder than most and has been jumped on more than a dozen occasions, including the one that bent the front axle housing and bent the frame yet the frame has no cracks that I can find anywhere!!
I think that boxing the frame is a good idea but it depends alot on what you do in the long run with bumpers, winch and all the other options, it will definately stop the cracking but at a cost of flexing without heavy modifications and compromises good or bad, thats my opinion.

 

I boxed the front end of mine but only back to the engine mount. The only reason I did that was because of the power steering mod. I wanted to eliminate the flex on the front where the box was being mounted. I've beaten my poor little Jeep up pretty bad and have yet to find a crack anywhere. Like Mcruff though, I've kept the front and rear shackle area pretty stock. No after market bumpers front or rear. I even took the winch off to lighten the load even more.

 

This is actually a subject that I have alot of interest in. The frame on mine has had a rough life and has some poor repair jobs. It also appears to be bending up a bit on the left front where is sticks out from under the grill. My question is, and please keep in mind that I am a computer geek and not much of a jeep geek. And while I am mechanially inclined, I know very little about automotive mechanics.(I am teaching myself as I go) My questions are:
Is it worth while to have a frame repaired or am I better off buying an aftermarket frame? And if that is the case, has anybody had good luck with the aftermarket frames? Are things like motor mounts already attached? I've always wondered if I would be responsible for welding on new ones, in which case, I would wonder where the exact position to weld them would be. I dont mean to take away from Dan's question, I just figured that since we were on the subject........

Thanks.

John Hicks
Boise, ID.

 

You could actually fabricate one yourself if you have the time and the right tools. I haven't tried it myself but I know a few people that have and, after a few kinks, they're quite happy with it. there are also quite a few after market frame places too. Unless I'm mistaken though, you'll have to weld your own motor mounts and spring hangers, at least.

 

It depends how much $ you want to spend. Matkins I think ( or maybe AFW ) will build it the way you want. Skid plates, mounts, TJ suspension, tire carrier etc. Its all money.

 

I was thinking the same thing, but could not say for sure.
Old age creepin up , or just brain freeze.

 

New after market frames will run $2000 and up. Thats a lot of cash! Personally, I think the problem with the old frames is too much flex. Take any piece of steel and bend it enough times and it will break. My vote is for boxing the whole thing and let the suspension do the flexing. The old Bronco's frames were fully boxed and they aren't subject to all the breakage some of us experience. My frame has been broken, not just cracked, three times. Two were from the PO. Each year I've boxed a little more and had fewer problems. This summer I only had 1 crack. All the flex in the frames is also hard on the body as it has to flex too. Just my .02

 

DanStew,
What do you mean by boxed frame ?
This pic. shows a small portion of my frame. Do you mean that one ?
http://imgsrv.pic4u.co.il/f5f65508739361aa834dcbb39a250c40020000.aspx

Ziv

 

hello ,
i think the same as posimoto ....

as my tub was also shot, i'd prefere to have a rigid frame and tub ,
like this i have no fear to fix my roll cage to the frame ...

with the sbc i was pretty afraid that this weak frame twist ...
but now it's as rigid if not more than any yj.

 

here's the link of part of the project...
http://allroad.no-ip.com/jeep_hospital/pollo_loco/page_01.htm

in pics 112.12 15 you see that every part of the frame as been boxed .
i followed the advice of terry (green cj6 on 4x4wire),

it was not a hard job , but the tub is an other story ...

 

Well im new to jeeps but been around racing a while. This what we see alot in racing and its a legitment debate. Flexing can help your traction but can make it develope odd charestics. And far as boxing goes you if you are going to do it do the whole frame . If you are going to do let say just the front or rear end to support mods it would be best to do a few smaller and smaller braces to slow the flex be for it gets to the ridget part to reduce the chance of cracking right at the start of the boxing. Ive saw truck and racing frames rip or crack right at the edge of the boxing quite a few times even mine so i have a little experance with it.

 

boxed front of frame only due to mounting winch.

 

Dan, I'd think that adding gussets between the top and bottom webs of the frame would solve your spring mount cracks. And it wouldn't limit flex at all. That's what I did, but I was forced to do it to repair and reinforce a similar crack and my gussetts weren't as nicely done as I'd have liked but...

By gussett I mean just cut a couple pieces of metal to fit the inside curve of the "C" Shape of the frame and then welded them inside the "throat" of the frame. Mayb two on each side...one in front of and one in rear of the hangar. Doing this would allow you to still get to the rivets of the hangar from the inside of the channel...just in case you ever wanted to remove them.

 

Really nice job on the restoration, Rapha. Great photos too!

 

thank's ..
still a long way to go ...
but just found tha advance adapter that i needed on ebay(80$ instead of 300$),
i'm missing the stock chevy bellhousing ....
i will send up-date when i will be further...