Buick V6 Clutch questions

Here is the setup:



I have a 4 foot cable that crosses over the frame rail.



I wanted to upgrade this setup to the chain setup, but was told that i can't do that when I called to order it. Should i just get a replacement cable? The clutch felt terrible when I bought the thing, and I'd like to keep the stock pedals.





Nice groove that fits perfectly on the lip of the backing plate.






I'm going to order a new fork, should I get a new backing plate as well? I didn't see any part numbers on the backing plate, should I just order one for the engine (take the block numbers, and ask for the corresponding vehicle?)

 

If the cable works, it's a great system. I'd keep it - esp. if there is a replacement cable available.

Backing plate? You mean the clutch cover? I'd definitely put a new disk, cover, pilot bushing and TO bearing in while I have it apart. Short money for that much insurance, IMO.

You may have the wrong TO bearing for the diaphragm clutch. The clutch fork should not contact the cover.

I'd also cover that hole someone hacked into the bellhousing ... or better, replace the bell.

Welcome to the world of DSPOs.

 

Also, year/model/equipment? Including this info in your sig (signature file) will speed up replies.

 

I will update my sig when I double check the figures, I believe the engine is cast as a 79 - 81 231 V6, Even-Fire, Turbo Charged. I double check that when I get home, I don't have my notebook with me. T-90 mated to a Spicer T/C with a Warn OD.

The jeep is a '59, dana 44 Rear, 27 front. Saginaw steering swap done by PO.

I was just going to order a new clutch cable and fork from: http://www.the-jeep-guy.com/Transmission.htm

The shortest one listed should work, but i've heard bad reviews of this guy..

 

Looks to me like the factory Jeep clutch cable setup ... like '70 or '71? IIRC those cables are still available as a replacement part, if it's a Jeep setup. Seem awfully tidy not to be the factory setup.

 

It is possible that the front axle is a 25, I haven't cleaned off the years of gunk yet to find the casting numbers on the axle. When I ordered new parts for the disc swap, 25 and 27 parts all seemed to be interchangable (seals, felt wipers, bearings etc.)

I'm sure its a t-90 trans, the case is stamped t-90. Thats getting rebuilt as soon as my brass drifts get shipped. If the cable is okay where it is, i'll just order the one from the JeepGuy. I was just concerned with it being over the frame rail and above the muffler. That just didn't seem like a good idea to me. Does clutch fork matter? Should i get one for the '70?

 

The clutch cable should be re-routed away from that muffler; heat will kill the cable.
If you can't re-reoute, then wrap it and protect it.
To test the cable, you could simply dis-connect the cable from either end, and pull on the cable by hand; it should move freely; if not, it could have been damaged by heat or dirt or other problem......

As Tim has mentioned, I would replace the clutch as an assembly. I don't recall the raised lip on the pressure plate that's making contact with the fork; it's not on my new 225 clutch.

 

The clutch cable and it's components appear to be the factory set-up. You could purchase that as a kit from Jeep and convert the clutch when installing a V6. The cable on the frame appears to be welded; the kit bracket would have bolted to the frame, installers decision I suppose.
The aftermarket replacement cables don't have a good reputation for quality/reliability.
My factory clutch cable has been in use since new in 1983; I would try to re-use that existing cable if it's in good shape.
New doesn't neccesarily mean better anymore.

 

I tried to pull the clutch cable, and it is very difficult to budge it. I'm having a hard time understanding why I couldn't upgrade to the chain kit from Novak, but a new replacement cable will certainly be cheaper.

Took the Cover and pressure plate off the clutch:



the springs show wear, appears they were hitting the flywheel bolts:



So I guess my next steps are to get the flywheel off and take it to a machine shop. I'll have to check around the Pittsburgh area for one that does this. From what I understand I should order a 10.5 clutch for a '78 Buick with a 3.8 v6, make does not matter. Correct?

Thanks for all the replies, this is truly new ground for me.

 

Unless you removed it the pilot bushing in the crankshaft is missing also. It supports the input shaft of the transmission and is very important....

 

With all those problems with your clutch, I don't see the cable being the problem. If you can get a replacement cable keep that setup. Back in old days when we stated putting V6's in these things we used that stock Jeep Cable arrangement all the time, never had a problems with them, they worked great with stock pedals. There used to be a great article on the Jeepster Commando sites about the correct parts for a V6 clutch setup, what the correct throw out bearing and such for a light clutch pedal.

 

It's been a long time since I replaced a clutch but doesn't the spring dampener face the pressure plate?

 

yep

 

I guess I am amazed the clutch even worked with the disc installed backwards and no pilot bearing. You would have thought just the sound of the dampener spings on the flywheel bolts would have been some sort of cue. Will be interesting to see what the input shaft/mainshaft needles look like. They may be a bit oval shaped. Hope the input and main are still useable.

 

I'll get pictures of those tonight. Like I said, the clutch sucked when i got it. I literally had to let it out all the way before there was any grab. But between the cable being frozen from years of neglect and being on top of the muffler, and the fact that the clutch was held on with bolts that seemed to only be hand tightened, nothing surprises me at this point. I'm going to go ahead and order a new clutch kit that comes with the pilot bearing as well as a new cable.

 

Greetings,
I have a 71 CJ5 I purchased new. I have the cable system and way back I tried to change to a chain system and novak rejected me as well. I am fuzzy as to why but believe the offset from frame mounting point is not properly inline. In any event way back I purchased a spare cable from Jeep and still have it. if you find a supplier of this cable you will be lucky...good luck.

cheers,

Bill

 

http://www.the-jeep-guy.com/Transmission.htm

Are these not the correct replacement clutch cables?

 

wow
that had to make some kind of noise
make sure you install the t/o bearing correctly on your replacement fork.

 

992533 is the correct part number that Jeep used......