Upgrading Steer Linkage.

My experience with the Ross box is that the box is fine as long as you do not mind replacing the shaft/needle bearings in the bellcrank about every 10k miles, which I find is a pain in the arse. If Willys had seen fit to use tappered roller bearings (as per FJ40), this system may have had hope, but a very small wobble on the bellcrank shaft translates to a bunch of slack at the steering wheel. The saggys are a much better set up. The fewer components from the steering wheel to the knuckles, the less opportunity for slack in the system. Unless one is doing a 100% restoration, I strongly recommend converting to a saginaw. Perhaps this gets back to what do you really want to use the Jeep for. If it is actually going to see a lot of miles, put the Ross on the shelf.

 

diggin' up the dead here..

No one answered this question & I haven't found any info on a tapered kit.

Before I go engineering & fabbing one up, is anyone aware of an available tapered bearing kit for the Ross bellcrank?

 

Bump.

I did a bit of searching, to no avail.

Anyone got some input on a tapered setup, please?

cell post

 

http://www.ewillys.com/2011/04/16/updated-verion-of-lawrences-bellcrank-mod/

 

Yep. The right knuckle from any closed-knuckle Wagoneer or J-truck will work. The trucks had 44s, but the wagons had a 27 or 30. Should be cheap or free.

 

Depends on the year. The '77 FS Cherokee used the 44's front and rear. I believe the wagons from that year set did also.

 

Thanks dude!

 

He said closed knuckle. '77 is open knuckle.


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