shackle reversal

has anyone done a shackle reversal on a early cj5? mine witch has 38's has a bump steer problem it has springover with 4inch lift springs and power steering with 2 stabilizers on a dana 30 with discs

 

It seems that you are pushing your luck with 38's on stock axles. For the bump steer, make sure your draglink and trac bar are parallel(or as close as you can possibly get). you will probably have to move mounts and what not. If you aren't running a track bar, you probably have to steep of an angle on the draglink(consider getting a longer drop pitman arm)

As for the shackle reversal:
-How much street driving do you do? When you do a shackle reversal, you are going to get more dive when you stop.
-You need to be careful because instead of your axle moving forwards and up, it will now move backwards and up. This can be a problem because you can actually bottom out your driveshaft and shove it into your t-case and do some nasty damage.


I'm sure somebody here can chime in and offer some more specific help. Maybe try searching here or over at pirate4x4.com.

Hope I helped some
Chris

 

You might still have a problem with bump steer even after shackle reversal. The main advantage is the ride quality off-road. I like mine, but it takes a lot to do it right.

 

My '56 came that way! Nyuck nyuck nyuck!

 

Dude, 38's on stock axles?? You are on borrowed time on those unless it's a mall crawler. Even then, with stock width, it's COG is very high.............

I'll be running 39's or so on mine. But I'm swaping in a D44/D60 set from a J20. I'll be using the Blue Troch Fab wide axle kit. It costs about 500 bucks but allows you to swap in a full size axle and is designed for a shackle reversal. You also get a new bumper out of the deal. And you can run Wrangler springs which gives you a better ride.

But it was designed for a later frame. But I think the front sections are very close, if not the same. Something to look into. Or at least look at to see what it takes to do it right.

 

Shackle reversal has been the cure all for every know front end problem.

Which is just not the case.

Everytime you change something there is a cascading effect on the rest of the suspension geometry.

Focus on the drag link angle as suggested.

And try to move away from the 38's really just show truck size for a jeep.

 

I did it. I think it's the worst mod I've done to date, especially considering the amount of time (not to mention money) it took to finally get it right. Planned "Shackle Reversal Reversal" sometime in '09. Plan on spending some coin on a long-travel front driveshaft.

 

The answer is as stated already: have your drag link and tie rod as close to parralel as possible.
The comments on size are silly.Some people like big,some people need big some people dont like it or need it.Where you live,what kind of wheeling you do and how hard you are on you equipment are all considerations.And even if all you want is a mall crawler...go for it and enjoy it.

 

The combination of a long drop pitman arm and a curved drag link may be your answer. M.I.T. (Jeff and Karen and Company . . . Great people to do business with) will build you one specific for your Jeep.

Here is a picture of one I found on the web . . .

 

heres how mine came (already converted)

Yes I did have a problem with the axle moving back and hitting the rear of the fenders, but I run 35" tires and 6" lift, so it was kinda expected. I ended cutting all 4 fenders as far as I could to clear the tires.



and here is one with the 38" gumbos installed (and later stolen)

 

I did mine 2 years ago using the kit from Warrior Products. It was some work to do but well worth it in my opinion. You might have better luck with the pitman arm as others have mentioned.

 

Wow i thought i was the only one crazy enough to bend a drang link Heres mine

 

Okay, all those out there with stock front shackle reversals, or those that are happy with their conversion, what position are the shackles: perpendicular, or at a bit of an angle? The original spring mounts were 42" apart front to front edge to rear edge, and the shackles were perpendicular. I've reversed the mounts at 42", and the shackle is angled back toward the rear spring mount.?? I thought it would be perpendicular back there with same lengths everywhere, but I guess I'm not as good at geometry/engineering as I thought. Thanks--Mike

 

They should point slightly towards the rear springs. Shackle length can change that angle. I had to move my spring mounts to get the right angle when I did mine. If the shackle bottoms out against the frame on full compression, you'll need a longer shackle.

 

Posimoto--Thanks for responding, but I need clarification. Everything I'm reading says "...points this way or that...", and I'm sure it makes sense to experienced readers and the authors. The bottom of shackle mounts to the rear of the spring, then the top of the shackle should angle back toward the rear of the vehicle and attach at the spring mount on the frame, correct? so, top of shackle is farther away from front of vehicle, I guess "pointing toward the rear spring"? Let me know when you get a chance. Thanks--Mike

 

I used the kit from Warrior Products so I didn't really pay attention to which way the front spring hangers face. It was an easy modification and for me, it has worked out great.

I will see if I can post some pics tonight.

 

Tex--I'm good with the direction of spring hangers, just need to know about angle of that rear shackle: either it's 90 degrees/straight up and down under the hanger; or top of shackle angled back toward rear of vehicle; or top of shackle angled forward toward front of vehicle?? I want to do it right before welding the rear spring hangers. thanks--Mike

 

I see, the kit I used utilized the existing spring hangers as an anchor. My shackle mounted right up to that so it wasn't even an issue.

 

OK, so at what angle are your shackles?