Scott's '66 Continuous Modifications.

I did put the fan shroud on a few weeks back and no more overheating since. It was expensive ($156) but fit very well and was easy to install on my new champion radiator. The tabs on the shroud lined up perfectly with the mount holes on the radiator. I definitely recommend this for anyone who is having trouble controlling their temps.

Fan Shroud (CJ5)

 

Trying to find a way to remember to release the parking brake.



I’m thinking about some micro switch and LED indicator on the dash if this doesn’t work.

 

That sounds like a good idea. Most cars have had a BRAKE light on the dash as long or longer than your CJ is old.
Looks like a hole for an indicator light between the volt meter and oil pressure gauge, if that is a hole plug that I see there.

 

Could a reverse light switch be made to work with a collar around the tube, hole drilled thru the tube and collar with a clearance dimple drilled into the cane so it's off when released?

 

I’m replacing the bearings and seals on the rear axle. I started a thread with my questions here... Servicing Rear Wheel Bearings???
I’m into new territory here but studying the manual, watching the videos and tearing into it I think it’s not a very hard job.

Original tapered axle Dana 44 with 11” brake upgrade.


Driver side seals are completely gone.


I’m in pretty deep.

 

It definitely wasn’t done correctly by the PO. The nut that should be torqued to 150lb was barely hand tight. I have about 500 miles on the Jeep since I finished putting it back together. Glad there wasn’t any catastrophe failure.

I’ll dig into the D30 front next week after I get the rear right. Hope I don’t find any more big surprises.

 

One problem I ran into taking the rear axle apart was that I couldn’t get a wrench on the brake line. No surprise to my wife I got impatient and used cutters instead of a bunch more wrenches. I made some new brake lines and cut some clearance into the flange where the brake backing plates attach.

 

Waiting for rear hubs and bearings.
I bought a hand throttle kit from Summit Racing after reading a post a few weeks ago decided to work on it last night. Took just over an hour to finish and that was making my own bracket.


Vroom vroom


Mounting on engine would be better but the pull angle would be way harder.


Drilled a little hole in this bolt and added it to the linkage.


Done.

 

X2!

 

X3.
I had one drum come off easy with a slide drum, flipped it over and ran 5 bolts thru it to the other flange with a loose axle nut. Tighten the flanges in star pattern and let set overnight. The garage gnomes finished the job during the night. Those 2 and 3 jaw pullers don't like me.

 

I got the new bearings, seals and hubs for the rear. All except the outer seals should be here tomorrow. So I started putting it back together tonight. Got it shimmed out just right. All going well until I put the lug nut studs in backwards on the second hub. Time to stop for the night.

 

Getting harder to get much done now I have two old jeeps to work on.

In Florida and the heat off the fenderwell headers makes some uncomfortable conditions when slow driving. I bought one big rubber mat at Tractor Supply and cut it up to fit in the bed area and mats for the front floorboards. One trip to the beach yesterday the mats seemed to make a big difference.

 

Have you looked at Lizard skin at all? I haven't heard about anyone using it in our jeeps, but it seems pretty well regarded in the hot rod world for heat deflection. I've been thinking about trying it along with their sound deadening coating in my jeep.

Here's a link to discussions on homemade lizardskin alternative to Lizard Skin - Page 8 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board

 

I’m worried about getting stuff like that wet. My jeep will get wet/muddy often so the mats are easy to drag out, rinse and dry.

 

From what I understand, you can make your own by mixing ceramic microbaloons into whatever paint you choose. Basically, you can use the same paint that you already have on your floor, but it will be insulated.

 

Got a cool key ring.




Having trouble with the rear driveshaft being too long. Bottoming out here on pinion seal. Going to driveline shop tomorrow for modification.




Think I’ll use shaft out of donor CJ7 I have for the CJ3B project. It has a much longer slip joint and Beefy Cs.

 

Driveshaft shortened and shop put a new slip joint on as well. Cost almost as much as a new Woods shaft but it is basically new now.

Already installed. I’ll get a photo soon.

 

I bit the bullet and bought the Real Highlift jack. Harbor Freight is about 1/2 the cost.

Installed tonight. Put a couple bolts up thru the bumper, tack welded and cut a piece of thick rubber for the base.



Another 1/2” bolt thru the tire carrier. Tack welded in place.



Sticks up about as high as the top so hopefully it will not get pulled off by branches on the trail.

 

A jack that lives outside needs plenty of lube. I run the neoprene cover with fluid film on the mechanical parts.