Bats In My Bellcrank

Resurrecting my '67 CJ5. Rebuilt the entire front suspension including new bearings in the bottom end of the bellcrank. Put everything together and checked the play in the steering wheel. I get about 10* of slop. I looked underneath as the wheel was being wiggled to see where it was coming from. What I see is the bellcrank moving up and down. However the slop appears to be in the upper piece. I haven't seen anything else to recondition. The only thing I can think of is the fit of the pin to the housing. Since it doesn't seem to be a wear area perhaps my replacement pin was not large enough? Grasping for ideas befor I tear it apart.

 

bell crank ? picture

 

Steering bellcrank, part #3, I presume. I don't know anything about them, but someone here will.

 

Bellcrank gets worn. Replace the parts from a supplier. It still will have a bit of play. If its really worn you might have to replace the bell crank too. It might be a bit of a PITA to take it apart and you might need a bit of heat. Good luck.

 

Bellcranks come in different diameter sizes (military versus civilian, etc.)

Sure you have the right parts?

 

Ya might want to look into the adjustment in number 6. Those parts in there wear a lot, which can be adjusted out.

 

Steering Bellcranks

 

by moving up and down are you referring to moving on shaft. with ross steering 10* free play in steering wheel. I would say that's acceptable .

 

"pin to the housing"

? are you referring to the rivets that hold it to the crossmember?

And yes... 10º at the steering wheel is minimal, even necessary.

 

I read it as 10* in the bell crank up and down. Upon re read I was wrong. 10* at the steering wheel is pretty good.

 

It is item 3 in the illustration. I have rebuilt that part with new bearings and seals. The steering box does not have any slop at the point I'm testing it. I had a helper wiggle the wheel and I was looking for what's happening. The bellcrank actually twists in the upper fitting which causes the slop. The problem is the upper pivot has slop.

 

The bracket on the frame that clamps the bolt is only sliced half way down. Mine wallowed out a bit so i had movement there. I cut it the rest of the way with a sawzall to get it to fully clamp the shaft and that fixed it.

 

I thought I remembered a post about this not too long ago with a good solution...

Steering Bellcrank Mod with Paired Tapered Roller Bearings

 

I had the same problem, the bell crank was moving up and down a little. I have two, so I put a rebuild kit in one, but didn't have a tie rod press, so I put the new pin in the old bell crank. That helped some, but it was still there, I borrowed a tie rod end press and was able to get the tie rod out of the old bell crank, and change them out and it is a lot better. I put a rebuild kit in the drag link and it is like new now. By the way, I have a 66 V 6 steering box, with the bigger sector shaft. The last thing to do is adjust the sector shaft, if you tighten it too much it will growl and that is not good. Hope this helps.

 

Ok I wanted to get back and update this thread. See the video of the problem. The solution was to go back to the original pivot bolt. The repro item used was .007" undersized.
PS. Sorry about the background noise.

 

I think I remember putting a thin washer on the bolt so it would take up more slack, and adjusting it a little tighter at one point, stainless washers are generally thinner than steel washers. I did find a rebuild kit and replaced the whole thing and it worked out well for me. I found the rest of the slack was in the drag link adjustment. Good Luck, I hope this helps.

 

Check with Roy at 1st gear off road , He makes A custom bell crank with Timken

Tapered Roller Bearings that can cure Your bell crank problems .

I have one on MY cj6 it has been on there for 49 Years still works great .

1st gear off road phone # 951-654-4532.