1948 cj2a

How did you attach the front of the fuel tank skid?

 

It is bolted to the crossmember thats above the rear axle

 

Well, some tranny issues over the weekend point to the fact the tranny is on the way out. So now i have to figure out what i want to do.

1, rebuild the t350 and keep it, deal with the front drive shaft clearance issue, the solution will be a 2pc shaft.

2, replace the auto with a standard, i little more work, but would eliminate my front drive shaft issue.

For now, i am going to toss in a trans medic and see if it swells the seals enough to help, and drive it till it won't move.


A buddy had a good sm465 with a AA d300 adapter on it, i would still need a belhousing, flywheel, clutch for a 4.3, don't know how easy they would be to get

 

If you go manual, This is what i used.
Clutch kit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ZZZ-MU1877-1/
Flywheel (verify applications) needs to be balanced with the engine 85 and 86 are different,
and the starter is different unless you use the smaller clutch and flywheel
85: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ZZZ-50-6504
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ZZZ-50-6525/
bell would be a local purchase
I went with a shortened throwout fork, lengthened bellcrank cable with the factory linkages and pedals.
it would likely be easier for you to go with a hydro clutch, with your swinging pedals.

 

got some new tires, 33" MTR's



and started to bend up the front cage

 

Would like to do a V6 with a 700r4 in a flat fender. Have you been on the road and is there any vibration from short drive shaft and do you have a lift kit of any type installed?

 

Driveline vibrations are not bad, if at all. I did a couple of little things to help the cause. Moved the rear axle back 1", and used a d300 so I could drop the rear output, I clocked the 300 up so the front output isn't super low. My only issue with the whole setup is the front driveshaft. There is no way it fits, I will be using a 2pc front shaft. But a 700r4 is a inch or 2 longer than a th350 I thought, that could be a deal breaker right there.

 

I got some more work done on the cage, the blue tape will be more tube

 

Finally putting the d30 in, with power lock, hd tie rods, all new bearings and balljoints, for once a project went off without a hitch, it dropped right in, just need to fab some shock mounts



It was nice having a selection of u bolts from years of projects!



Axle came with a little bling



Still need to paint the steering stabilizer and get smoke new shocks, I'm thinking some rancho 9000's

 

Been working on the front driveshaft. I have to use a 2pc because of the t350


Got the mount just about done for the carrier bearing, it looks like it will actually work pretty well.

 

I really like the Jeep.

 

nice job on that front drive shaft!

 

Wow, been a long time since I updated. Not much happened, Been driving the Willys around a little, worked out some bugs. Recently getting back at it. Decided the rear family cage was too much, and removed it. Removed the tire/gas can carrier too, it's much better without all the crap on the back.

in big news, it's off to get painted. Pulled everything apart this weekend, dropped it off today. Painting it to the new Jeep color Anvil








going to clean up all the wiring when it goes back in

 

Love your project. Any idea what year the repro body is? I have an identical on a project, and was wondering how old.
thanks,
John

 

Thanks, it's older. Probably over 10 years. The tub and chassis, bounced around for a while I was told.

 

back from paint

 

Thanks, I don't think I took any pics of the slider build, Won't happen again

 

Looks very nice. I have the same body on my 53, purchased under the assumption from the seller that it was a clean original. He lied, and I learned a lot since then. Are all your front panels stock, and if so, how do they fit? I want to put a canvas or soft top on mine one day, but am not sure if they would fit these early reproduction bodies. You planning on installing one?