Electrolysis

Been using electrolysis lately on a few parts. Working pretty good. Bought a big Tupperware bin from Walmart that I've been able to reuse, and a good sized chunk of scrap angle iron as a sacrificial anode. I use powdered dishwasher detergent (sodium carbonate) that I buy for $1/box from the Dollar Store. I use about 1/3 box per 30 gal of water; mixture doesn't have to be exact, just make the water cloudy with detergent. I use a 12vdc automotive batt charger as a power source on the 10 amp setting, usually draws 2 - 4 amps during operation. Connect POS to the sacrificial anode and NEG to the part you want to clean. Takes about 24 hours to clean a part. Set the part in and leave it sit overnight, next morning stir the mixture and knock the rust off the sacrificial anode, then let sit another 12 hours. Works GREAT on manifolds and other parts that you normally wouldn't be able to clean inside.

This crossmember was pretty much a solid chunk of rust before it when in the bin:


Look at the bottom of the bin and the anode. That is some of the rust that came off the crossmember:

 

I can testify it works very well. I've been using multiple pieces of rebar in a 5 gallon bucket. I also use an old battery charger. It works very well!


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This is awesome, I'll have to try this. What would happen if you come in contact with the water while it is on, any danger?

 

Probably, but it has happened to me accidentally and I didn't feel anything.

 

I have the bottom of a plastic 55 gallon barrel I want to try this with. Goodness knows I have enough rusty parts..........

 

That's amazing.

 

could you do it to get rust out of a gascan?

 

http://www.altelco.net/~jacil/clay/motorcycle/KElecSetup.html

 

uncle..i'd fill it with vinegar.....here is a thread i posted on the 2a page.....my experiments..
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/electrolysis-bath-adventures_topic20558_page1.html

 

cool
i got 6 old style jerry cans that look great on the outside.
but rusty innards.

 

Bill,
I think you could use this method on gas cans, with the proper setup. From what I've read, you need line of sight access from the sacrificial anode to the area to be cleaned. Meaning that if you just put the gas can in a big tank, it would clean the outside just fine but not to good on the inside.
If you suspended the sacrificial anode down inside the gas can, you get the line of sight access. Use something insulated to hang the anode from, maybe a piece of plastic across the opening with a wire to hang the anode. Connect the anode to the Positive like Clint says, the negative to the can and see what happens.
I have also used pool acid to clean gas cans and gas tanks. It is just muriatic acid, the stuff they sell at Home Depot works just fine. It is concentrate enough that you want to be careful of the fumes and not getting it on your skin or eyes though.

Don

 

Wow thats really gets the rust off!

Is it safe for the battery charger?

 

So when you soak the part being cleaned, do you submerge the negative battery charger clamp as well or does it need to stay above the cleaning solution?

 

negative stays above....conncsted to the copper wire attached to the submerger part...will add...the electrolysis didnt help free the stuck pistons..but the vinegar did...next time i have a bunch of stuff..im just going to fill a garbage can with vinegar..dunk whole rims ,etc...vinegar took longer, but worked better with less maintenance..had to keep resetting my chargers, etc...the vinegar just smelled like i was dying easter eggs all the time..

 

I don't use a battery. My charger leads are connected straight to the grid and the item. When I start it initially, it will show about 6 amp and trickle down to about 3 amp at 12V. I keep both charger clamps away from the water.

 

that is SO cool... im gonna try it too... im sure i have some rusty JEEP parts round here somewhere....


OH YEAH... its what im WORKING on!

any specific BRAND of detergent? and just plain old water right?

attach (-) to rusty via wire, keep (-) clamp above water, and attach (+) to anode and also keep (+) clamp above water...

 

I need to see a pic of this while it's happening.

 

I read that a guy did a whole frame that way. Got some rubber roofing, built a tub with it, and let is cook for about a week.

 

I'll take a pic next time I fire the tank up. Here's what I've done for best results:

Buy powdered detergent that has as few ingredients other than "Sodium Carbonate" as possible.

Give the part a once-over with the wire wheel before hand to knock off the excess crud.

Attach a 10ga wire to the part. On a manifold, just attach a bolt. Or use an alligator clip.

Attach multiple sacrificial anodes, if possible. I've seen pictures of people making a grid. Small parts only need one anode.

Stir the water and lift the anode out of the water and knock the crud off every few hours, if possible.

 

But the anode cannot make contact with the part, correct?