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what 11" brake parts do I need off a DJ5?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Rondog, Mar 22, 2006.

  1. Mar 22, 2006
    Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Parker, CO
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    Local guy on Craigslist.com has some early '70's DJ5's for parts. What do I need to get from him for 11" brakes for my CJ5? I'm thinking just backing plates and drums, as all other stuff would be replaced anyway, right? How hard is it to find all the little stuff (shoes, springs, cylinders, etc.) for DJ5 brakes?
     
  2. Mar 22, 2006
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
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    If you an get it all by all means get it, you don't necessarily have to replace the small parts just the shoes. They parts can be had at most decent Flaps though if the parts are missing or in bad shape.
     
  3. Mar 22, 2006
    Old Bill

    Old Bill Aggressively passive....

    Really Southern...
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    Uhhh, haven't you read this? :D

    I'd just grab everything from the backing plates out. You know, to save you from having to drive all over looking for parts like I did. :rofl:
     
  4. Mar 22, 2006
    Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Parker, CO
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    He said in an email that the "pads" were missing, so I assumed that meant shoes, and I also assumed if the shoes were gone, so were the springs. I'll have to call him and talk about it when/if I get a phone #.
     
  5. Mar 22, 2006
    Old Bill

    Old Bill Aggressively passive....

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    Well, as long as you snag the backing plates, you "should" be able to get everything else new. Go for it!
     
  6. Mar 22, 2006
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    Grab the master cylinder & proportioning valve block too- good time to do the dual M/C conversion.

    H.
     
  7. Mar 22, 2006
    tommy b

    tommy b Member

    Golden, Colorado
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    If you're converting to dual m/c and have all drums, do you need the proportioning valve? or do you just use it as a junction block?

    Ron,

    I agree. Grab everything you can but all you really have to get are the backing plates and drums. Everything else you can buy locally.
     
  8. Mar 22, 2006
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    I've never been able to get a straight answer on this but heres what (I Think) I know-

    The 9" brake setup uses different sized brake cylinders between the front & rear, bigger in the front than the back. With the same line pressure front & rear this results in less force on the rear shoes in order to prevent the back wheels locking up first (because they have less weight on them), with the resultant uncommanded Bootleggar's turn & mandatory change of skivvies :cry:

    The 70's era 11" setup uses the same sized wheel cylinders front & rear. In order to prevent rear lockup the line pressure to the rear cylinders has to be reduced, accomplised by the aforementioned metering block. The block also has the ports for the brake light & brake fail switches.

    If I'm wrong on this will somebody let me know before I kill myself?

    Please??

    H.
     
  9. Mar 23, 2006
    Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Parker, CO
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    Latest email indicates all he really has that's usable is the backing plates, waiting on a price for them. Can anybody give me a ballpark idea what they should cost, or at least how much is too much? Mucho appreciated!
     
  10. Mar 23, 2006
    Old Bill

    Old Bill Aggressively passive....

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    I got a pair from someone here for $50 IIRC. Local Jeep junkyard wanted $100, and another place would only sell me the whole set up (backing plates out) for $275. IMHO, if you can get them for <$75 or so, do it.

    Good luck!
     
  11. Mar 23, 2006
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    Inspect the backing plates before you buy. If there are grooves worn in the "bearing plates" (for lack of a better name), the self adjusters won't work. The edge of the brake shoes slide on little plateaus that rise up from the backing plate - these are sometimes worn.

    JMO - forget using the old hardware. If these are 11" Bendix brakes, you should be able to buy a hardware kit for them. Get the rods that go between the wheel cylinder and the shoes. There's nothing wrong with reusing the drums if they can be turned, but I'd go with new hardware, cylinders, shoes, and hoses. JMO - don't go cheap on parts for the brakes.
     
  12. Mar 23, 2006
    Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Parker, CO
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    Thanks guys! I've got a feeling that I'll have to remove them myself, so they better be cheap.
     
  13. Mar 23, 2006
    Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Parker, CO
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    He wants $10 apiece for them.:shock: Looks like I'm gonna have me some 11" backing plates.:D

    Haven't found out yet if I have to pull them or not. So, anybody pulled any off a DJ5? Do I still have to get one of those special pullers and yank the rear axles? What about the front backing plates on a DJ5, since it's not 4wd?

    He's pretty close, around 10 miles, so I can make a couple of trips if I have to. I've never taken any axles apart, if you can't tell.
     
  14. Mar 24, 2006
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    Ron, I pulled some off of the front axle on a '76 DJ. The hubs are the same as a 4wd so all you'll have to worry about is the two nuts inside them. I (blush) did the hammer & punch thing-

    Didn't get the back ones, that axle was already gone but I suspect yours will have the flanged axles. That means you should be prepared to open the pumpkin in order to remove the retainer clips to get the shafts out.


    [​IMG]


    They cleaned up real nice-

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    H.
     
  15. Mar 24, 2006
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    I don't think there are any clips on a flanged D44. Once you unbolt the retainer plate, you'll need a slide hammer to pull the axle and bearing out (usually). If the axle is an M20, the backing plates won't work.
     
  16. Mar 24, 2006
    Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Parker, CO
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    The guy emailed me back that the axles are off, and he's going to pull the backing plates off for me. 10 clams apiece! Happy happy joy joy!!
     
  17. Mar 24, 2006
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

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    My Bad :oops: (I've been using the "OPPS" alt lately:cry: ) This is what happens when I comment on things I have no personal experience with. (here's where I'd put the "Braying Jacka$$" emoticon if we had one).

    Upon looking at the FSM the flanged 44 shafts have a bearing retaining ring much like the two piecers.

    H.
     
  18. Mar 24, 2006
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
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    Good deal Ron!! :)
     
  19. Apr 2, 2006
    Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Parker, CO
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    Picked these up today, the guy even carried them out to me in a box ready to go, for $40. Can't kick about that! Said they're off a '76 DJ. Two of them do have some nasty grooves worn in them like Tim mentioned, but I think I can weld 'em up and grind 'em smooth. The rears are setup for the parking brake cables, I guess you just plug the holes?

    Part numbers on them are...
    front left.....3201047-L
    front right...3201048-R
    rear left......3201051-L
    rear right....3201052-R

    Do they look like the right ones?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  20. Apr 2, 2006
    tommy b

    tommy b Member

    Golden, Colorado
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    They sure look like the ones I pulled from a 72 Waggy. I bought my setup for $35 each at Speedway salvage yard up in Erie. Good score for $10 a pop. Let me know how you plug the rear brake cable holes. I haven't got that far in my conversion yet.

    tommy b
     
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