Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by ITLKSEZ, Aug 20, 2015.
I didn't see noth'n
I found the elusive air bubbles in the right rear line, took it out for a drive, and the brakes are FANTASTIC. On loose gravel, the rears lock up just a hair before the fronts. I think I'll try to find more aggressive front pads/less aggressive rear pads before I mess with valving. It stops on a dime with minimal effort on pavement without rear lockup.
I found a problem I'll need to address: the harmonic balancer is a mess and will need replaced. The crank pulley wobbles like crazy, and I think it is spinning inside the rubber and it's preventing me from timing the engine properly.
I threw its clothes back on for a glamour shot to see how it sits with the front lifted. Better. (Although I’ll be back in the same boat again if I put a winch up front.)
serves you right for creating this monster!
That's A pretty short list of revisions that are required, before it can be released to the general public.
When does the crash testing begin...
The to-do list is long. And expensive.
I’m reaching a point where less skill and more money is needed. Gauges, lights, fuse panel and wiring, air pressure switch, auto paint, tires, wheels, lugnuts...
I have a few things I want to tie up, then it’s getting parked to I can get a few long-overdo jobs out the door. Clients are getting impatient. At least I’ll be able to drive it when the urge hits me.
I almost wrapped it around a tree this morning.
I wonder how my Volvo 5 speed would work?...
Isn't the 5 speed and the four speed the same size?...
The M47 is basically an aluminum version of the M45 with an overdrive gear bolted on the back.
The OD housing is about the length of my t-case adapter housing, so if we could figure out a way to bolt a t-case directly to it...
I'll have to look at mine one of these days...
Did you get all of the bugs out of your teeth?
Ya know? It is a very odd experience to drive this.
You guys know the ECJ experience better than anyone: Climb in, follow the appropriate starting procedure for your rig using three feet, four hands and a bit of luck to get it started and moving. You smell the rich exhaust fumes. As you back up, you check the spots it left, as, if nothing else, a monitor on your fluid loss to know what and when to refill them. You crank on the wheel to turn it as you lean hard around turns. You hope nothing jumps out in front of you to have to rely on the sub-par brakes to stop you. You listen for any new rattles or louder whines. Etc...
My goal when I started this was to create an ‘un-jeep’ of sorts, and I think it worked. It’s a very surreal experience. I hop in, turn the key, and it starts. The exhaust is silent, there are no rattles, no drips, no exhaust smell whatsoever, the brakes work great, the steering is easy (with a steering radius that is half of my 3b), it stays flat in corners, and it’s comfortable. I know it’s easy to say “Big deal, so do new jeeps,” but to have it in a tiny, 70 year old flat fender package really plays tricks on my mind after spending over half my life in them and having it be second nature to expect all the quirks that are inherently attached.
It makes all the sleepless nights, blood, sweat and tears all worth it.
I found the cause of my moving timing mark on the crank pulley. There’s a key that is cast into the timing belt pulley that fits into a key way on the main crank pulley. This key was sheared off, and it was allowing the pulley to spin freely on the crank.
Luckily it’s made from steel (or cast iron); I was able to build it up with weld and file it to fit.
This explains the weird feeling I was getting through the power steering. It was working great, just slower than I felt it should have been. I was chalking it up to the large pump pulley, but the steering pump wasn’t getting full power under load. It’ll be interesting to see how it feels now.
Also, I started on relocating the pull point on the clutch pedal to be closer to the pivot, and I decided to take inspiration from the latest Project Binky episode and shorten the clutch cable. The stock length works, but it gets jammed in between the engine, cage and fender, making it sorta square. It won’t lend itself to longevity.
This will be doable without the fancy crimper they needed for the casing, because Volvo clutch cables are adjustable. The adjuster is the lower collar; it uses the coil of the casing as threads. Just turn the section that fits into the bellhousing to adjust. I can use this to my advantage by turning it way in (11” shorter will be a comfortable spot), cutting the casing, and shortening the cable. I have a plan for that part tomorrow.
So if I have cable failure and need a replacement out in the boonies, the stock size will fit, the shorter one will just work better.
wow . and it's buried behind all that junk you installed . but for you maybe a thirty minute job plus new timing belt
Yeah, it wasn’t fun to get to, but definitely 20x easier than getting to the same (equivalent) part on a dauntless. The whole thing took maybe an hour, and without a drop of fluids. (Just blood... that radiator is sharp!)
This is so true. I thought it was just me.
You forgot to remove the stock rock parking brake before getting in...
I just run it over.
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