Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5 and CJ-6 Tech' started by johnD, May 28, 2018.
I under coat my cj5 with the raptor line. It was straight forward no problems.
Make sure you run a good ground up and under your dash...
I was think about that issue. Can I ground the wire harness in the dash or do ground it in different areas?
Probably goes without saying....Might also want to consider using internal or external "star" lock washers on grounded connections. They will help to abraid the into surface crud/paint/coating to get a better ground and they tend to resist vibration, too.
All of the body will be at ground potential. You can ground to the dash steel, but that relies on the bolted connection between the dash and the body to return to the battery. If the dash is convenient for grounding, I would add a jumper wire to the body from the dash steel if I had ground wires going to the dash.
From an electrical point of view, the body is not a great ground - it's made of steel, which does not conduct as well as the great conductors (silver, copper, gold and aluminum in order of decreasing goodness) but for an automobile it's fine. The body has an advantage that it's big, and whatever the material, the larger the conductor, the lower the resistance.
The main problem with steel as a ground conductor is corrosion. Loss of grounds due to corrosion is a very common problem for older vehicles. Many times, electrical problems will mysteriously go away after cleaning and reseating the ground connections, to the body (toothed washers as above) or in connectors (unplug, spray with contact cleaner, reseat a few times, add a little dielectric grease).
Something to keep in mind when working on any old car.
Thank you both for the insight. I was reading also to ground to the engine block is that a good idea or no. I am planning to mount onto the frame this weekend.
I would treat it like a fiberglass tub...
get a good ground block in the cab and run everything there..
For automobiles, more grounds are better. Typically there is already a heavy ground strap between the frame and the engine block. There should also be a ground directly to the body from the battery. Usually that's a smaller gauge wire attached to the negative battery cable.
I was looking at NRG ground kit. Would that be a ideal purchased.
I use Raptor liner on a lot of projects, (always color tint it to match the exterior paint) but I also get torn when and where I use it. I like the thought of it being underneath the tub, protecting all that new metal from becoming rusted and rotted again. Under the fender wells keeping rocks from chipping new paint and making the noise of rocks hitting a little less. I use it in my wheeling rigs on the inside of the tubs, again to help with rust issues, but also to make a bath tub out of the tub. I don't mind standing water or mud for days, if I know there is Rhino liner in there. Sometimes I wheel for a week, so cleaning out mud and water is not my priority at the time. But here comes the issue. When you use it on a restoration project, purists cringe and are the first to point out you used bed liner. I know, I like nice shiny paint on the floors etc. But man do I hate rust even more . Some think you are hiding rusty metal when you use and bed liners. My Jeeps that I keep get it. Those I am selling, maybe not, even though I think they should.
Just got done going though this issue on my Jeep. I got a Walck's harness. Rear lights, add a ground wire in the harness, one end attaches to light housings and one end to frame. Front lights, grounded light housings to frame. Under dash, get or make a ground block, get a battery ground cable that has a extra ground wire on it, for the dash ground block. Dash ground the wiper motor, turn signal housing, heater fan motor, cluster housing, emergency flasher, if doing LED lights, will need a ground for that. There might be more. Ground wire from motor to frame.
John is that a replacement tub or original equipment? If it's original you did a good job. If a replacement I have a word of caution. Back in the early eighties I bought a replacement steel tub and under coated the heck out of it before install. 2 yrs later the rear floor rusted out. The rear stiffeners (hat channels?) had wood in them to make them more solid I guess? Anyway, the wood held moisture and rotted the floor out. Just sharing my bad experience to maybe help someone else.
Grounds as said can cause problems if not properly attended. Agree with tim on what he said about grounds. Remember not having a good ground on a 55 chevy, and every time you put on brakes headlights would go off. More grounds the better if made right and use dieletric grease. Electronics can, if not properly grounded, can give you fits with unwanted noise in cb's stereo etc.
johnD, How are you liking the Raptor in general? I'm thinking of lining the inside and outside of my tub with it. I've heard mixed reviews. Some have said it's more "plastic" feeling than "rubber" feeling. Does it get slippery when it gets wet? Also, masscj2a, since you said you use Raptor a lot, how does it stand up to abuse? How many years are you in?
its hard,not terribly slippery and i have some going on six years on my rocker guards still holding up,it has rubbed off the edge where they hit the rocks. i wouldn't do the outside its a one way trip,very tough to remove.
* I wrote inside and outside. I meant inside and underside.
I think with proper prep it’s good inside and underneath.
I like it a lot I had no problems putting it on. I scratch up the primer and wiped it down then I wiped it all down with acetone. I recommend the kit with the gun if you have an air comperes. It goes on easy and dries in about 60 seconds. I let it sit.
The tube is after market tube. I purchased it from willies over land motors. I will check the back Hat channels. It looks like there is wood in there. Thanks for the heads up!
Last question johnD. How much of the Raptor did it take to do the underside of your tub?
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