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T14 Rebuild

Discussion in 'Early CJ-5 and CJ-6 Tech' started by homersdog, Nov 23, 2018.

  1. Nov 23, 2018
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok Sponsor

    Tulsa, OK
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    I rebuilt my T14 transmission using the kit from Novak adapters. I am no expert, but this is the process I used along with some photos.

    1) after I removed the top cover, I lightly tapped the counter shaft a a little towards the rear to loosen the lock plate. Sorry no pictures, wasn't thinking. Removed the counter shaft lock plate, then slid the counter shaft out towards the rear, then allowed the cluster gear. to fall into the belly of the case.

    2) Then I removed the input shaft cover. It was very obvious the shaft seal had falied, the inside of this part and the bell housing were covered with old gear oil.
    [​IMG]

    3) then I could slide the input shaft forward, pulling it out of the case. Some of the needle bearings came loose, no problem, they are being replaced anyway. Remember to rotate the half moon cutout in the drive gear towards the bottom
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    You can see one of the brass locking rings fell loose as is expected.

    more to come...
     
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2018
  2. Nov 23, 2018
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok Sponsor

    Tulsa, OK
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    4) At this point i used a block of wood and a hammer and tapped the main shaft forward out of the rear main bearing. Once it was loose I could lift the main shaft up out of the case.
    [​IMG]

    I am more or less following the process in the novak guide, by the way.
    In the above picture from left to right is the 2nd and 3rd gear synchro assembly, the brass second gear blocking ring, then second gear, then first gear, the low gear synchro, then the reverse gear is partially slid off. Please notice the groove on the 2-3 synchro faces to the rear. Novak says it is supposed to face to front, but this is how mine was built, and this is from the factory. Also in the FSM there are pictures showing it facing rear.

    5) in this next picture you can see the counter gear cluster laying in the bottom. The reverse idler gear can be seen in the lower right. I chose not to rebuild the reverse idler because it does not get used much.
    [​IMG]

    More to come tomorrow, time to watch football and have a beer:beer:
     
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  3. Nov 23, 2018
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor Sponsor

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    Somebody's been in your transmission before. The blue silicone on the front bearing retainer at least. Thats probably why the syncro collar is backwards too. Gears n such look pretty nice!
    -Donny
     
  4. Nov 23, 2018
    heavychevy

    heavychevy Sponsor Sponsor

    Danielsville georgia
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    Enjoying your build on tranny. Look forward to your future post.
     
  5. Nov 24, 2018
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok Sponsor

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    I replaced the input seal in the 90s, but the transmission has never been rebuilt AFAIK. owned it since 78. Do you think the synchro is backwards? From figure J-23 in the FSM it looks like the groove faces to rear. Also look at J-29.
    thanks!
     
  6. Nov 24, 2018
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok Sponsor

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    6) next was disassembly and inspection and cleaning. Before taking apart the synchro lock rings from their hubs I scribed a line between them so they would go back together the same. The only bad part I found was one of the little ears on the low synchro was broken, I found the piece in the belly.
    [​IMG]
    The parts are all included in the rebuild kit, so no problem. Probably broken when I was doing burn outs in the HS parking lot or when I was using my front bumper to push a stuck Suburban in the snow or some other crazy crap in the 70s and 80s.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Here things are cleaned and sorted, waiting on parts kits.

    [​IMG]
     
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  7. Nov 24, 2018
    TIm E

    TIm E Sponsor Sponsor

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    I noticed when reading over the Novak instructions the other day, that they do mention the orientation of the front synchro collar groove, but agreed it seems to conflict with FSM. Cant matter that much if it has worked for 200k miles. The internal synchro hub orientation is critical though, it won't go together with those flipped around.
     
  8. Nov 24, 2018
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok Sponsor

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    7) to re-assemble I first used some refrigerated Vaseline to stick the spacer rings and the needle bearings in each end of the cluster gear.
    [​IMG]

    I also used the Vaseline to stick the thrust washers in place for the cluster gear.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    You can see in that last picture the counter shaft ready to be slid into the cluster gear.

    8)Then i lowered the cluster gear in carefully so none of the roller bearings fell out, then pushed the counter shaft through by hand, very carefully. Rotate the cut in the rear of the shaft to face the cut in the reverse idler shaft, then place the locking plate in the slots.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Nov 24, 2018
    TIm E

    TIm E Sponsor Sponsor

    NW Arkansas
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    Very nice write-up so far Grant.

    Not sure if necessary, but one thing I did before seating the cluster pin all the way in is put a bit of anaerobic sealant in the front hole to prevent possible leaks. I also put a dab on the end of the pin before bolting on the bellhousing adapter just to ensure no leaks from the front pin hole (as it is submerged in oil).
     
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  10. Nov 25, 2018
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok Sponsor

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    Good idea, I think I wil do that, I haven't installed the tranny back in the jeep yet.
    Thanks Tim!
     
  11. Nov 25, 2018
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok Sponsor

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    9) next I re-assembled the Synchros, making sure to align the marks I scribed earlier.
    [​IMG]

    10) Then I slid on low gear, and one new brass blocking ring.

    [​IMG]

    11) Next I put on the low synchro, temporarily wrapped in masking tape to hold the keys (pawls) in place. It has to go in the correct orientation to fit over the blocking ring.

    [​IMG]

    12) in the following picture you see the different thickness snap rings to put on after the Synchro hub, select the tightest one you can get in the slot. This selection came with the kit.

    [​IMG]

    13) I then added the 2nd 3rd synchro, and second gear, in the same manner.

    [​IMG]

    One thing I should have mentioned earlier is this whole assembly operation has to be kept CLEAN!
     
  12. Nov 25, 2018
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok Sponsor

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    14) slip on the reverse gear.
    [​IMG]

    15). these are main bearings that came with the Novak. The forward bearing is 1-3/8" id ( nominal)x 3.15 od. The rear bearing is 1-3/16 id x 3.15 od. The Crown brand was made in Slovakia, the JAF was made in Japan.

    [​IMG]

    16) I carefully lowered the main shaft into the case.

    [​IMG]

    17) Then I placed the rear bearing over the output shaft and started it into the case hole. The OD is slip-fit, the ID is a press fit.
    [​IMG]

    18). The pressing of the rear bearing can be done by using the bearing spacer, the output gear, the washer, and the nut. But you have to have a strap wrench to keep the shaft from turning which I did not. I pressed it on by setting the tranny on the garage floor next to a concrete step. I backed up the shaft by placing a wood block from it though the case hole to the concrete step. I put a 1-1/4" steel pipe over the out put and LIGHTLY tapped the bearing until it was seated.
    [​IMG]

    I know that is a big hammer to "lightly" tap but it has a big face and I swung it carefully!
     
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  13. Nov 25, 2018
    Focker

    Focker Ran when parked... Runs while moving. Staff Member Sponsor

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    Added to the Technical Index page. (y)
     
  14. Nov 25, 2018
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok Sponsor

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    Thanks! That feels like an honor!
     
  15. Nov 25, 2018
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok Sponsor

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    19) The front bearing is pressed onto the main shaft with the snap ring groove towards the front. There is an oil slinger plate that has a raised face, actually 2 raised faces. The outer raised face goes against the gear, the inner towards the bearing. The next 2 pictures are actually from the disassembly, but they show the arrangement.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Then press on the bearing. I did not use the hammer method on this, the fella across the street has a bottle Jack type hydraulic press, we used that with this 1-1/4" pipe and a pipe coupler for the larger bearing . I did not get a photo of it in the press.

    [​IMG]

    20) next step is to load needle bearings into the inside of the input shaft. This is done with cold Vaseline and CLEAN hands similar to the cluster gear.

    [​IMG]

    21) Then carefully place the input shaft assembly into the front of the case, don't drop any needle bearings of course. It mates to the front of the main shaft. The half moon cut on the drive gear must be oriented down to clear the cluster gear.

    [​IMG]

    Then put the snap ring on the main bearings, on the od of the bearing and on the input shaft. The rear OD snap ring is .010" thicker than the front bearing OD snap ring. There is no shaft snap ring on the rear. in the above picture the shaft snap ring has not yet been installed.
     
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  16. Nov 25, 2018
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok Sponsor

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    22) and to finish up, I used a socket to tap in the input shaft seal.

    [​IMG]

    Tap it in until seated

    [​IMG]

    I coated the Front bearing retainer/shaft cover gasket with sealer, then bolted the cover to the case. Its important to make sure the lower one does not interfere with the cluster gear if you are using new hardware. DAMHIK! Tighten per FSM specifications.

    [​IMG]

    the oil drain passage in the retainer/cover should be oriented as shown to allow the lube to drain back to the case.

    That is all I have, this just my experience to help others decide if they want to tackle this job and to see what they are getting in to. I am no expert so if there are mistakes here feel free to reply with a correction, comment etc.
     
  17. Nov 26, 2018
    Rick Whitson

    Rick Whitson Sponsor Sponsor

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    Great Job, Thanks for sharing. Tim E's suggestion is spot on, I had that problem. I rebuilt my T 90 and kept getting spots on the garage floor, pulled my trans out three times before I found the problem. I finally pulled the trans out and set it in the warm sun for a while, after a while I could see oil coming out the cluster shaft at the front of the case. I drained the trans, cleaned the area around the cluster shaft with Brake Clean and put Permatex on the end of the shaft put it back together, problem solved. Good Luck
     
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  18. Dec 8, 2018
    juffer

    juffer Juffer Sponsor

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    Very nice rebuild. I am doing mine next week. So this is very helpful. Can you tell me how to get off the nut at the back of the transmission which is holding the gear to the transfer( how to block the shaft from turning). And can you tell me about the small gear down under. does it has a bearing or so?

    Thanks
     
  19. Dec 8, 2018
    TIm E

    TIm E Sponsor Sponsor

    NW Arkansas
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    You can lock-up the transmission to remove the rear nut by removing the top cover (shift tower) and manually shift the collars into two gears at once.

    With a T14, your D18 will be the larger 4" bore. You can separate the transmission and t-case without removing the gear, it will fit through the 4" hole.

    By "small gear down under", if you mean the reverse idler gear, it has loose needle bearings in it like the countershaft in the bottom.
     
  20. Dec 8, 2018
    juffer

    juffer Juffer Sponsor

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    Thank you. since the gear has a lot of play at the splines I will check if it is the shaft or the gear. . Do you think I can get that gear of without removing the transfer?
    Yes I mean the reverse idler gear. Thanks
     

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