Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Chilly, Oct 26, 2009.
OUCH, is it truly pitted that deep, or just on the surface?
Unknown yet. Right now its a mass of crunchy blisters. Once those are dissolved I'll know more.
If you EVER roll your chassis outside for any length of time wrap the engine with a contractor garbage bag and roll of duct tape.
Glad to see you resurrect this thread because it puts it at the front of the line where noobs can see it.
This is some fine writing ^^.
Double, double toil and trouble;
Fire burn and caldron bubble.
WD40 rust remover;
'Cause I ruined it like a loser.
Hemmed by lexan on the deck;
RTV the sealing make.
'Twas a fine run 304
Till Oxide's Harpies shut the door.
For a charm of powerful trouble,
Like a hell-broth boil and bubble.
That cylinder turned out pretty good. Pitting does not seem too deep but still requires boring over. Can't hang a nail on the ridge but pitting seems like an over-bore is needed.
The original block doesn't have any pitting but I can hang a nail on the ridge and it had been overheated. The rusty block is probably a better bet.
Period correct lunchbox in which I hauled a baloney sammich, apple, and home made cookies. Thermos is long lost.
if you find a chuck Norris lunch box im looking....
The only man who has successfully shut a revolving door, Chuck Norris.
Chuck Norris. Okie.
We call the winch chuck. He doesn’t pull you out he pulls the earth under you. Want to use a chuck Norris lunch box for the solinoid cover on the 8274.
Stripped down original engine block and heads, which were on the garage floor. Block and heads are at machine shop while the engine with rusted cylinders remains between the frame rails. One last cylimder is soaking in rust dissolver since we have a few warm days.
Intake marinating in hot soapy water after a scrubbing with Simple Green grill cleaner. That stuff worked surprisingly well considering how chemically neutered it is. But I got two cans of high-test oven cleaner that I'll use after the hot water rinse.
Tried prying out the rivets for the PCV baffle but they broke. I'll drill and tap the holes, screw it back on, then tack weld the screw heads to the baffle to be 100% certain they dont come loose and jack up my cam.
Surprised how clean this engine was. Little sludge. I think it was decently treated but just worn out. Then the kid who had it for a short while before me overheated it and cooked the ring tension. But machine shop has detected no damge. Yet.
THATS what I like! Skin-melting caustic poison that turns carbon into slime.
Body still at paint. Guy had some bad luck with a near house fire, then came winter (too cold to paint, not a well heated garage), but spring has sprung so maybe soon. Maybe.
Block and heads are still at machine shop. That guy had some bad luck with serious illness in his family. Got him behind on jobs that pay the bills and mine is back seat filler work.
On the up-side I have the intake and everything attached to it cleaned up and ready to go. And the timing cover, oil pump, and distributor are likewise redone amd ready to install.
Also got a pair of much nicer, but later, fenders from my uncle's CJ7 all cleaned up of lichens, moss, and undercoating. Somehow W PA 1982 fenders are really nice. Rest of that Jeep is falling apart though.
Today I'll degrease and wash the crank. Looks good so took a chance that itll measure out OK without grinding. Machine shop ordered rebuild kit assuming same so I sure hope so.
I also need to yank the rusty engine to get the pan and flywheel. Was on the fence about needing to balance but I dont think Id ever feel right skipping a $250 job like that.
Just like that.
Getting some overdue vitamin D.
That garage.... DONT JUDGE ME!
Whew! Not stuck.
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