Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Chilly, Oct 26, 2009.
And the hood, which is a poor repaint attempt.
Made my 76+ battery tray work. The two holes on back of the tray are just a bit too close together on the new tray so required just a bit of dremel work to make room for the bolts. At this position the original lower strut also aligned to the stud on bottom of firewall so I knew location was close to the old tray (FYI the lower strut that came with new tray is same as the original).
This left the top two hanger arms out of position for the firewall holes. I didnt want to make new holes because the original holes are backed by welded in panel nuts and new holes would be half on-half off. And I prefer to modify the cheaper part.
I cut off the folded mounting tab on outboard hanger and welded on a generous new tab that would reach the original firewall hole. On inboard hanger I hacked off the hanger which was too short, and the hanger from old tray and spliced Them together to reach higher up the firewall. There is a near imperceptable angle between the two pieces to make it fit but it's not a show Jeep.
I'm satisfied with the tray. I will augment the later style clamp with a strap that goes over the top for extra measure of safety.
Seems complete except for o-ring to seal the cap.
Cleaned off undercoating and dirt.
Anyone have a photo of where an intermediate tank vent valve mounts? During the body work my tub seems to have lost the studs/screws in the back of the driver's wheelhouse. Cant recall if it was attached to inboard wall of the well, the back panel, or above and behind the wheel arch.
Aerosol stripper on column.
that hood is sunburnt, im gonna guess late eighties early ninety's bc/cc
Few PA hoods are sunburned. I'd rather speculate that the painter did not follow with the clear coat until the base had cured, relying then on simply the mechanical bond instead of chemical. Clear acts as a greenhouse over the clear. I'm not a painter so maybe not, but the base is not cooked off. Just the clear. Obvious repaint attempt. Hood metal seems as thick as my original so maybe a real OEM replacement instead of MD Juan. Underside has what looks like primer black where mine had body color. Either way, its as thick as my original and straight.
Some DA work. Ready for epoxy primer to replace the rattle can work that I'd done before. And will never recommend if you have a compressor and cheap harborfreight gun. Do it right. Epoxy is much more resistant to chemicals. Much harder. Topcoat with satin black which is inexpensive automotive paint.
Was lucky to find some photos of Super Jeep seats. Until now had no clear photos of the vinyl color. Interesting that this Jeep has exactly same radio and soeaker as mine.
This is not my Jeep. It's the one with giant tires and "JEEP CUP" on windshield if youve ever looked for Super Jeep photos.
What color would you say is center seat panel?
Back left corner fixed by local shop.
tub corner looks fantastic..
what are you doing for the tailgate brace? original or?
You referring to that piece that runs across the top rear of the back panel? Special order from Classic. Their panels now include it but five years or so when I bought mine from them they did not. It's not offered separately in catalog.
Weather was great this weekend to weld it on but I caught a cold on Friday and have no energy.
The color for the seat panel is called cinnamon. I have a copper tan super jeep that has the original back seat in it. I'll try to post some pics in a few minutes.
Re-resurrected. Jeep is at paint now. Missed too many rides with my kids as they just keep growing. High time to get this thing done, even if it means punting on the paint. The power steering is on, wont know if itnworks until I can start it up. Lots to do.
The scraping begins. I do sorely hate scraping undercoating. Seems like most of it may sort of chip off, but its thick. And coating both sides of two fenders. Thats a lot of real estate.
Having pulled a set of 82 CJ7 fenders, I am now well aware of the many minor differences so I decided to fix up the originals. I cant afford the point deductions at the concours.
Rear of my frame is boxed. Unsure if thats original for a 1973 but it makes installing the rear crossmember bolts tricky. Im reminded of spiral wire pigtails that come with hitch kits for fishing the bolts into place. Are those things available somewhere? Wouldnt know what to search for.
SuperJeep, Super Disappointed. She drank some rain water when chassis qas parked outside. Had it tarped but you know how that goes when it blows hard. Found I was missing the washer under the air cleaner nut so was funneling water into the intake. Three cyl pretty ratty,which is a darn shame because other bores still show cross hatch.
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