stupid question on tow bars.

Got my tow bar bolted on, but how do people make it stay sticking up and not fall(pivot) to the ground?
Thanks

 

Chain or rope to the footman loop is what I've seen.

 

Thank you!

 

Mine has a tab welded on the tow bar and attachment point, I run a bolt through it.

 

Mine evidently had lock pins on it so you could remove it when not in use. Some one did, it wasn't there when I bought it. I use the mounting/pivot points for quick links and D-clevis pins for recovery. Or those enormous 10,000lb hooks that I mounted right behind the front bumper.:hurrican:

 

X3, it only takes about 3 minutes to take mine off. Ain't worth the problems that could happen if it came loose.

 

The towbar I used to have had a bolt to insert in the hinge that locked it into the up position. I had no fears of driving with it in place and locked, though my mental picture of what would happen if it came down was scary. Never did, and I've never heard of one falling down.

 

I had a friend whose bolt came out of her tow bar and the bar hit the ground while she was doing about 50, I think, and it bent her frame very badly, she now has a trailer queen because she can't take it on the freeway to get to the trails. I try to take it off prior to driving on the road for any distance, but when I don’t have the room I use two bungies and use the safety chain through the grill.

 

I agree with Patrick, Ugly as sin but useful.
So, (I have not done it yet because we just trailer the 56) build a "stinger" with a receiver to slip the hitch into. the stinger would look nice, with out the ugly hitch part. when you want to tow slip the receiver part into the stinger and unbolt the front upper support letting the modified "A" drop (piveting) down for the tow bar.???? What do you think?

Just an Idea I've had
CAM

 

You need the A-frame shape of the tow bar to make the Jeep track right. A stinger wouldn't push the front of the Jeep around as it should, I'd think. Maybe 2 receivers?

 

I use a really huge wad of bubble gum. Doesn't work real well when it's below freezing.

 

timgr

Yes, the "A" frame stinger would have the receiver at the top of the A, and even in the cross of the A. then the hitch would slide into the A top and into the cross for a stout hitch.
The stinger would swivel at the bumper and lock to the back brace when used as a stinger, then undue the back brace and let the stinger be the A frame hitch. most stingers are about 45 deg?? so the stinger/A frame will never be straight up and down like a hitch and the hitch will unpin too look nicer.

Maybe a better way to say it is, it would look like an A with a line thru the tip and cross.
By modified I mean more rounded than an "A" to look like a stinger. The hitch would pin in at two places (the tip and the cross) and be two times stronger than the reciever with just one pin. the hitch would just be a long reciever tube with two holes, the hitch and safety chains.

Anyway hope this explains my thinking!
If not I could make one and post a pic!!
In my own mind it would work and look nice,
work as a stinger on trails then slide in hitch, unbolt from brace,
swivel down to hookup to truck, undo the front and back hubs,
haul a$$ home

I still would prefer the trailer.
CAM

 

I use a small chain and carbiner clip to keep mine in the upright position. The chain is bolted to the tow bar and then runs through the grill mount on my 3A.

I once forgot to latch the towbar and had it come down while driving, but luckily I wasn't going very fast. It came down and dug into the dirt and the Jeep sort of popped a wheelie and came down on top of it. It didn't hurt the Jeep, but sure bent up the towbar. I was able to straighten it and I still use it today, but now the first thing I do when I unhook is secure it unless I'm taking it off.

 

For those of you who drive with bar raised: there is a sure-fire way to keep from driving off with the bar raised but not secured. The problem as I see it is you can raise it up and lean it back just enough to stay up but certainly not secured. If you modify your setup so it can't "center over" far enough to stay put without a pin or bolt then you are very unlikely to drive off with it unsecured. It will be less convenient but safer. This mod will force you to install the pin or bolt immediately after disconnecting because it won't lean back far enough to stay upright. You could take it a step further and create some sort of stop that would not let it tilt far enough down to grab asphalt. Still needs to go down far enough to articulate with road travel, but not so far as to hit dirt when unsecured.