Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by Allan, Nov 17, 2019.
Is there a specific wrench used for this, super tight area can’t get a real grip or turn
You are supposed to use a flare nut wrench on those nuts. Using an open-end wrench will distort the nut and it will leak, assuming you don't round off the nut corners. I have used a piece of steel tubing (EMT) over my flare nut wrench to break loose tight flare nuts.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=flare+nu...=c&hvqmt=e&tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_15enaqq4fd_e Worthwhile buying the best quality you can find/afford here. I'd probably Snap-on for these, if I replaced today.
I don't recall any specific difficulty getting to these nuts. If they are too difficult to remove, you can cut the brake tube and use a six-point deep socket, or an offset box end wrench.
In my experience, old rusted flare nuts get ruined a lot of the time when trying to take them apart for the first time in maybe decades. I have a full set of flare wrenches and generally they round off the nuts as well as an open ended wrench if they are frozen. In some of the more inaccessible areas with frozen flare nuts I have even taken the wheel cylinder and pulled it in, stretching the brake line enough to get a better grip on the nut. Other times its been vise grips after the nut gets wrecked or even just cut the line and replace with new..
Its not really fun when they get old and rusty. Good luck.
These often work - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBBD/ref=psdc_553408_t1_B00004SBBE - I have these in the 4" and 8" sizes.
Really, if the nut is that mangled, you may as well cut the tube, throw away the cylinder, and make a new brake line. Cylinders for these brakes are cheap ... I recommend going all-new for the wheel cylinders anyway.
EDIT - Oh, the flexible line goes into the cylinder here. You should be able to turn it, or you can follow Chris's suggestion and unbolt the wheel cylinder from the backing plate and push the hose through the backing plate to reach it. Likely you can take th hose loose at the chassis and remove the hose from the cylinder on the bench.
Precisely correct on both the nut vise-grips, and that just replacing the tubing is way easier and better in many cases. Once you cut the tube off you may be able to remove the flare nut and save the cylinder.
Often the bleed is frozen too, but may be save-able if you get the cylinder on the bench. But by that point, why not get a new cylinder?
Isn't it a brake hose that screws directly into the wheel cylinder on the intermediates, Dana 30 open knuckle.
Again I learned something, the existence of the "flare nut wrench". I have probably one or 2 from my grand-father, but never imagined the existence. I'll check tomorrow at the local shop which repairs the big farm machines. We are good friends now.
I play my little joke, when I come to buy some stuff for my garden : hello, could you sell me today a nice combine like the one waiting in your yard. Instead of yellow, can you make it in pink, this is for my wife".
Yes, you are absolutely right! I already corrected myself in the EDIT in post #4.
Looking for a picture to illustrate where is the shop where I buy garden products.
It is a small village, around 700 inhabitants. They employ nearly 10 people.
They make the big agricultural business, but also the small one for garden tools.
They also sell tools, shoes, equipement for farmers. Only good quality, customers oblige.
Last week I had a problem with a pulley on my John Deer lawnmower.
They started to look for a replacement, but one of them told : we can rebuild it. It was done in the day.
In fact, they can repair all. They should invest in a 3 D printer, maybe.
Well, now they handshake with me. After 30 years owner a house in the place. These are correct people.
I trust them. Not too friendly, like in some touristic places, where they say hello my friend.
With my wife, we wonder if we'll stay here until the old age, but probably there is no better place.
Wait and see. Advantage : the roads are good for the Jeep, and they all like it.
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