Solder a radiator bracket myself or take it someplace?

Was thinking about starting to paint the radiator today. Took off the fan shroud and one of the mounting brackets just fell off... The PO had just three screws punched into the fins to hold it on... Should I/ Can I just solder it back on after cleaning it up or should I take it to a radiator place and them pressure test it, paint, etc...? Keep in mind this hasn't been run in God knows how many years and I have to pick out the mouse nests and empty acorn shells first...

 

alot of metal in these old radiators, i would try to do it myself. got any scrap copper pipe laying around to practice on first? heat and clean are the two big factors, its got to be clean, and the heat needs to be just right, not enough heat it wont stick, too much heat and it makes a mess

 

Theoretically you can do it yourself. However, I think the main difficulty will be applying enough heat quickly enough so that the joint is good but the radiator does not fall apart from overheating. The rest of the radiator is a big heat sink, and your flame has to provide a lot of heat quickly. The shops use an air-acetylene torch as I recall - I don't think your portable propane torch will do it. An oxy-acetylene torch would work, as long as you don't burn through the tank or such.

 

Hmmm, while I hate to outsource my work, I think that I WILL be looking into a rad shop to do it. All I have is a propane torch and an electric soldering iron. I hadn't thought about the possibility of weakening other joints. Thanks, guys!

 

really dont see anything to loose, as long as you dont go overboard and burn a hole in it

 

I'd think you could solder the tubes, since they are thin brass. I wonder about soldering the bracket though, since it's steel and larger/heavier. You also have to heat the tank enough to sweat the joint. Use plenty of flux.

 

Concentrate the flame/heat on the bracket as that's what requires more heat. Less likely to cause issues with the radiator that way. It can be tricky but if you are patient and take your time it can be done. I've done many like Patrick has. Just gotta go slow and prep is paramount!

 

I've repaired several radiators on tractors, jeeps with copper and brass
cores with a "prestolite" torch. A acy/ox. is way overkill.
The main thing is to clean the area to be soldered with fine sandpaper
or sand cloth. I use "c flux", which is a grey paste, and lead free solder.[solid wire] Apply a thin layer of flux on "both mating surfaces".
. On the steel brackets, it is probaly three holes at the top and bottom of the bracket about the size of a pencil. Start heating with a small flame around these holes, and when your solder starts to liquidfy when applied to these holes spread your flame in a wider circle. The solder will follow the heat. Use only enough heat to melt and flow the solder, then get off.
One more thing, tie or brace the bracket to the radiator before doing this,
and let cool 2 or 3 minutes before moving it. The tanks on the radiator is much thicker metal than the tubes, so your not gona burn through.

 

every time I tried to solder a radiator I always burned a hole in it with torch that copper is real soft when heated and if its to hot it will burn a hole

 

The only copper is in the horizonal strips that the tubes run through. The tubes and tank [top and bottom] is brass. It does'nt take high heat to melt solder. Melts at somewhere between 3 and 4 hundred degrees.
Don't take a big torch at all. I use a small prestolite tip and burn a flame
1/4 to 1/2 " long. That way you can put the heat in a very small spot.