SM465 swap and some other stuff

If the adapter is bolted to the cross member solidly as in your photo, I would recommend against putting a cushioned mount on just the transfer case. This will add unnecessary stress to the adapter.

A rigid mount for the transfer case, that is accuretly aligned with the rest of the cross member should fine, as it will not let the transfer case twist against the adapter.

Once the trans, adapter and transfer case are all bolted up as a unit, they should be supported as a unit.

 

Thanks for the help fellas! The plan is to bolt the transfer to the trans and then fab up a rigid mount to the crossmember. Xfer and trans will both be cushioned at the crossmember frame mounts.

 

Yes.

 

The stock mount.

 

Here is a thread where I document how I did the mount for my project. I am using and Advanced Adapters unit not a Novak, but the differences are minor.

I wanted to keep the stock anti torque doughnut so I modified the rear of the cross member to accept the AA rubber idolater mounts.

http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?74891-In-the-beginning

 

Here is the mount for the transfer case. Its currently tacked in place on the crossmember. I'll get a better photo when I pull the whole thing out for final welding and paint.

 

Well things are getting closer and closer everyday

I finished most of the plumbing over the last 2 weeks, just waiting on some AN fittings and hose from Summit Racing so I can make a power steering hose.

New hard fuel lines and brake lines:
\

New fuel line routing to pump, eliminating the old up and over and back again fuel line routing


Brake lines



Installed the Summit Racing heater today




Coming together nicely



Things that are still left to do:

Tidy up some wiring
Mount bumpers
Come up with a skid plate mount and then do the final welding on the crossmember and paint
New tie rod/drag link with either tie rod flip kit or heims (still undecided)
New driveshafts
Transmission cover

I'm sure I'm forgetting some things but I hope to start it up and complete the cam break in sometime in the next month.

 

Ditto

 

Made the PS hose today. I'm using Russell -6 AN adapter fittings on the box and pump, a Gates 90's on the pump adapter, and Russell Powerflex hose and fittings.



Finished welding the crossmember and came up with a skid plate mounting system. The main crossmember is frenched into the skid plate supports, should be plenty beefy with a 3/16 - 1/4 skid. 8)

 

Mounted and rewired the rear bumper with LED lights and added LED reverse lights. The old reverse lights will go away and a 1 piece black diamond plate rear wrap will clean up the rear.


Finished the steering system and brace. The tie rod and drag link are 1x.188 wall DOM with new ends. The steering box clamp is from M.O.R.E.



Got the winch mounted. I made the plate and fairlead mount from 1/4 and spaced it up off the frame (to clear the front bumper) with 1-1/4" x 1" thick flat stock. The solenoid pack is getting mounted on the inside passenger fender. This setup is very low profile and shouldn't affect radiator airflow at all. 8) I'm working on the front bumper now and hopefully it should be done this weekend.


I also cleaned up the wiring. I rewired the Jeep 10 years ago and just didn't like how things looked. I guess you could say I know more now than I did back then. This snowballed into making a new harness to the rear and redoing every splice and connection on the Jeep. Things are solid now and should last another 30 years. An accessory fuse block and related parts are on order.

Herm has my overdrive for a rebuild, so as soon as its back, its time to cross my fingers and fire it up!

 

Make sure you use a zinc additive in the engine oil!!!! There's a good chance lack of zinc caused your cam failure. Modern oils don't have the zinc quantities anymore to protect flat tappet cams. Don't want to see you wipe out the cam during break in...

 

I have a 2 bottles of Comp Cams break in additive for the first two oil changes. I plan to either use an additive every oil change or switch to a Rotella type oil.

 

Another well-informed flat tappet cam owner

 

It runs!!

Fired it up this afternoon and proceeded with the cam break in. Oil pressure was around 45-50 cold and dropped to around 35 at 2000 RPM's hot. Not as high as I would have liked but it should be okay. Vacuum gauge showed a steady 16 inches at 2000 RPM.

I do have a tick coming from the rear passenger side bank. I pulled the valve cover and watched things. All pushrods are rotating with the #6 exhaust rotating faster than the rest. All of the valves appear to be opening the same amount. I put my hand around the header flange to feel for a leak but found nothing.

Am I gonna wreck the cam or rings if I let the engine idle while tuning and searching for this noise?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CbhPsXwf18U&feature=youtu.be

I can get better video at a lower RPM in the next few nights.

 

Ran 2000 rpm for 5 minutes, shut it down to fix a minor issue, then 2000-2500 rpm for 25 minutes.

 

Thinking about it now, I'm wondering if the pushrod length could be contributing to the noise I'm hearing. I can move the #6 exhaust pushrod up and down a bit with the engine shut down. Any thoughts?