Simple clutch adjustment question

Hi,

Sorry I have to ask but it is the first time that I own an early CJ so I don't really know what "normal" should be.

1) When I press the clutch pedal the clutch disengage smoothly but very near the top of the pedal travel. Same when I let go the clutch after shifting - it engage right at the top of the pedal. Is that normal or should it be somewhere in the middle of the pedal travel? Or does that mean my clutch is worn out.

3) The manual says I should have 3/4 inch free play travel at the pedal do they mean completely free play as easy to move up and down by hand for 3/4 of an inch?

2) Before I screw things up -- The clutch adjustment nuts is located right beside the transmission correct? Should the cable going into the bell housing be somewhat loose. By loose, I mean not under a lot of tension - I should be able to press with my finger and it would give a little?

I don't want to play with it too much because right now it seems to work OK. When press the clutch pedal, the jeep can roll free (like in neutral) and when engage it doesn't seem to drag at all and the shifts are pretty crisp. Going up hill is no issue clutch wise. (except for the low power of the F134)

Thanks in advance

 

"The manual says I should have 3/4 inch free play travel at the pedal do they mean completely free play as easy to move up and down by hand for 3/4 of an inch? "

Correct. The throw-out bearing must not have any contact or be under any pressure, when the pedal is up (at rest) while cruising.

 

Answer to #1 The clutch should not engage at or near the top of the pedal travel nor should it release up there near the top when pushing down............and here is why: If the clutch is out at almost full travel near the top that leaves very little space for free play in the system once the centrifugal weights engage....... #2 3/4" of free play would be OK but read belong on a better way to check clearance. #3 The cable being loose can be part of your linkage free play..........but what is more concerning is the engage and disengage near the top of travel.........in order to re-position that a linkage change in mechanical length has to be made to lower where the clutch grabs and releases's .......keep in mind a normal clutch pressure plate at the throw out bearing only needs to have about 1/2"-5/8" of movement to full release............A check of other clutch components & linkage in your system like your fork should be done to make sure it is in the correct stationary position.

Another check on free play can be done while driving in high gear at say 40-50 mph.......just lightly put your foot on the clutch pedal and see how much clearance you feel as you softly push down......normally you will feel or hear the throw out bearing as comes in contact with the pressure plate......take a mental measurement of what you have as that is absolute clearance after the centrifugal weights in the pressure plate have engaged if is at zero you need more free play other wise you will wear out the clutch.

 

Ok, I had a Omer Simpson day yesterday when I was checking the clearance... I left the clutch return spring attached... I suppose that has to be off to do a proper check?

Also, reading the post from tarry99 the very high engagement point on my pedal travel is worrying me a bit - so I'll spend some time measuring the rod and cable before I touch anything.

As I said before the clutch is currently working OK since I was always told "don't fix if it ain't broke" so I'm a bit reluctant to goof around in there. That said, it would be nice to have the engagement point lower on the pedal and be sure not to do damage in the long run.

More to come once I get all the measurements

 

Not necessarily. The spring between the bell housing and the push rod is fairly weak and only there to keep the pushrod in the pocket on the throwout arm. It should not interfere with your feeling how much slack is present.

If you have an inch or so of free play at the top of the pedal's travel, you are done. There's not much else you can adjust.

All this other stuff that tarry99 describes is mixed in with the design and the condition of the clutch release system. You really can't control it by adjustment.

It would be good to look at the condition of all the parts here.

 

Timgr,

" The spring between the bell housing and the push rod"

The spring I was referring to is the return spring from the pedal to the frame. With the 1 inch or so a free play set correctly, should I see the cable where the adjustment nut is located been a bit loose and not under tension?

Thank you all for helping... it really doesn't help if you never drove on of these Jeep before - you have no frame of reference.

 

There's some good general clutch operation info on the Novak web site. Check it out.

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/clutches_etc.htm

 

Push the pedal with your hand. 3/4 to an inch from at rest with nothing on top of the pedal until you get resistance, which is where all the slack gets taken up in the various points of connection.

Adjusting so you have that 3/4 to an inch of slack will depend on which system you have. Hydraulic, rod and belcranks and cable, or cable (from the clutch pedal arm to the throw-out bearing arm. The major part of that adjustment is made at the connection point on the bell housing end. Should be a couple of nuts on a threaded end of the cable there. Loosening the nuts and turnin one of them down the threaded portion to take up the slack to the point where you have that 3/4 to an inch of pedal travel, then locking the second nut down on the first, and you should be good to go run around the forest (or desert in my case).

 

Thanks,

The pedal is definitely too tight - I have no play at all.

I have the original set-up for the 66 CJ (pedal -> rod to cross shaft -> cable that leads to a hole in bell housing) The cable run beside the T90 transmission.

Novak site is sure a good provider of information on how things work.

Thanks again

 

Shorten up the threaded shaft.........or whatever means you have for adjustment make the total length or system a little shorter............this will move the point of where the clutch grabs lower and increase free-play..........the only thing you have to watch out for is when depressing the clutch if it's to short there may not be enough down / pedal travel to fully release the pressure plate................Most times when you see large swings in clutch adjustment you need to find where all the mechanical movement has gone.......like sloppy or worn clutch linkage , throw-out fork, and anything else along the path..........

 

I replaced the rod from the pedal arm to the cross shaft with a piece of all-thread and two clevises with lock nuts. I found the rod (which looked to be original equipment) had two notches worn into it, which threw the adjustment way off. The all-thread arrangement gives me easier access and a lot of fine adjustment for that whole setup.

 

I have been super busy these pass couple of days so I didn't have time to deal with this issue.

I will remember this idea - the threaded rod would offer a good alternative since screwing in the adjustment nut on the cable end often just end up twisting the cable + its more accessible.

 

That is why I did it. The lock and adjuster nuts up against the tranny are really susceptible to mud and water and other rust causing elements. I could not get mine to move, and that rod between the pedal arm and the cross over tube needed replacing anyway.