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Rock Slider Ideas

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by FinoCJ, Apr 17, 2018.

  1. Apr 17, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    I am rethinking building a pair of body mounted rock sliders for the ecj5. Much in the mode of Posi and Focker, I am thinking of something like 4"x2" (4" up on the side and 2" underwrap) angle iron and then having some sort of additional piece to provide some outward protection. Posi did a set of tube steps and both he and Focker used something like a piece of 3/4x3/4 angle iron to create a sort of triangular extension outward.

    Just A Little Project
    Focker's '71 CJ5 Drivable Build

    I don't think I want the steps - but I do want something like the angle iron for lateral protection. Thinking maybe a piece of C-channel that is 2" high and 1" thick. 2" high would come up halfway along the 4" high sides and the 1" thickness would provide a modicum of protection without sticking out too far (aesthetic preference). I think I would be fine with 2 inches of lateral stick-out as well, but more than that I find looks a bit odd without fender flares and my narrow track with only 10.5 wide tires.

    Sound reasonable?...So my question...normally these are made with at least 3/16" angle iron and I would probably use 1/8" c-channel, or should I go with 3/16 channel as well. Also wondering if the c-channel piece on the side would that add enough additional strength that I could go with 1/8" for the base angle iron? The underlap edge would be a bit iffy at 1/8" but I might figure out some spacers to go between the underwrap and bottom of the floorpan and bolt through the floor as well as the side.
     
  2. Apr 17, 2018
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Volvophilic

    Post Falls, ID
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    If I ever made a set of these again, I'd cut a quarter notch lengthwise out of round tubing and weld it to thin angle.

    [​IMG]
     
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  3. Apr 17, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    I have definitely considered this...not sure I can precision cut the 1/4 notch out of the round with the simple tools/skills that I have. Will have to be done with a 4.5" angle grinder with cut-off disk or a die grinder with cut-off disk. I might try a prototype. Whadaya think - 1/8" angle iron with 2" diameter round tube?
     
  4. Apr 17, 2018
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Volvophilic

    Post Falls, ID
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    That's what I'd use.

    Drop a piece of angle iron on the tubing to scribe your straight lines.

    Those dimensions sound sufficient to me.

    One word of caution... as you cut the tubing, it will want to curve like a banana from heat and stress relief. I'd tack it to something heavy before you begin the cut, and don't release those tacks until it's tacked in place on the angle.
     
  5. Apr 17, 2018
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Sponsor Sponsor

    Sacramento Ca.
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    I'm in the middle of making some right now, I'm sorta making it up as I go along.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I used C channel to cut these from which gives me the added strength of the thick 90 degree bend on the bottom. These are thicker than 1/8" tho.

    I like the idea of some lateral protection but I just don't want to add more weight to these.
     
  6. Apr 17, 2018
    '74Renegade

    '74Renegade Sponsor Sponsor

    Fair Oaks, CA
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    I cut some 4x4 box tube on the diagonal, mainly because I like the look of the rounded corners better than angle iron. Been thinking of adding some round tube to the bottom like described above, realizing that negates the rounded edge but we'll see if I actually get around to it.
     
  7. Apr 17, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    This kind of gets to my next question: When I first attempted making these a couple years, I think I had a lot of issue with warping. It was a different design that I was trying and it had quite a bit of underlap and wanted to tie it into a body mount - so I had quite a bit of pieces welded together and it ended up with a large outward bow in the slider that I decided not to use. I did used scrap from a local drop yard and maybe stuff wasn't as straight as I thought, but either way, I am worried about making sure the new ones don't have a warping problem when I add on 2nd layer - be it the round or c-chanel.
     
  8. Apr 17, 2018
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Member

    Cottonwood, Ca
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    Mine are built out of Aluminum angle and tube. They are steps as much as they are sliders.
    Just a few more ideas for you. This is an early pic before all the bolts were added.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Apr 17, 2018
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Volvophilic

    Post Falls, ID
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    Yeah, that stuff gets a mind of its own if you're not prepared. Once the two pieces are tacked together, the lamination helps holds their shape. You should still take steps to prevent warpage while welding (clamp to something strong, weld in small steps and allow to cool between welds), because it would be really hard to bend it back into shape after they're welded.
     
  10. Apr 17, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    yup - I tried on the last ones which were 3/16 2x6 angle. They are now scrap for brackets and and other stuff.
     
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  11. Apr 17, 2018
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member Sponsor

    exploring the...
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    i had mine bent on a brake they go up the side 3 inches ,across to under the body mount ,and have a 1 inch lip bent down inside the body mount.plenty stout and gave me somewhere to tie the cage. i used 3/16 plate. ill see if i can get a pic when its light out.
     
  12. Apr 18, 2018
    tymbom

    tymbom Member

    Siskiyou Co.
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    I used some 2x2 angle iron and I believe 6 inch x 3/16th for mine... Then some button head screws and nyloc's with big fender washers backing them up. Then I capped the front edge so it wraps around the fender edge. I can use a hi lift jack on the side too
    [​IMG]
     
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  13. Apr 18, 2018
    4wealn

    4wealn Member

    Ontario, Canada
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    Here are the ones I built for mine.

    IMG_2019a.jpg
    A closer look.

    IMG_2022a.jpg
     
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  14. Apr 18, 2018
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Sponsor Sponsor

    Sacramento Ca.
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    I like the built in step. Are those tied into the body mounts or frame? How thick are they?
     
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  15. Apr 18, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Always appreciate pics of the underside...thanks
     
  16. Apr 19, 2018
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash Member Sponsor

    Gulf Breeze FL...
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    What about rusting under the sliders? Did anyone seal up the top edge well? Anyone leave a space between slider and body for air to get in and dry out? This is on my list of Projects as well.
     
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  17. Apr 19, 2018
    '74Renegade

    '74Renegade Sponsor Sponsor

    Fair Oaks, CA
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    I just bolted mine on, but in the central valley of California rust isn't really an issue.
     
  18. Apr 19, 2018
    4wealn

    4wealn Member

    Ontario, Canada
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    Mine are bolted to the body, they are not tied into the frame. They are 3/16th thick.
    Here is a shot of them before they were powder coated.
    I even bent up a piece of 3/16th plate for the underside. They are a copy of the Metalcloak ones at more than half the price before powder coating them.

    IMG_1987a.jpg
     
  19. Apr 20, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Started this project again - here is what I am trying to do this time:

    [​IMG]

    Using 3''x2"x3/16" angle with 1"x1"x1/8" square tube. I was originally trying to use c-channel instead of the square tube, but couldn't get the size I wanted. Ideally, I think 4"x2" angle would have been even better but again this is what I could get easily in the thickness I wanted (1/4" is too much and heavy for my use here).

    I cut stuff to length and trimmed the ends of the tube so that it has a bit of a bevel in the front and rear.
    [​IMG]

    I am keeping the front edge of the angle iron square and it will run up along the body panel seem - in other words I didn't try to extend it above the fender lip into the little curved area on the back of the front fender. I am cutting/shaping the rear of the angle iron to match the body curve at the end of the rocker and along the wheel well.

    This set-up will cover up up along the side 3" (which i think is the minimum - would have preferred 4" I think), and only have 2" of underlap (could have gotten 3x3). With the 1" square tube I will have just over an inch of lateral extension - gives just a minimum of side protection and looks reasonably proportional to the 3" high side. Additionally, the 1" tube also leave 2" of the angle exposed above it along the side of the angle - which provides a nice, reasonably centered area to drill the mounts.
    [​IMG]

    I don't have much around that I can use to help ensure things stay straight when welding and grinding - so the hi-lift jack bar got put to use to help ensure rigidity. Just tacked in a few welds today - going to do a lot of little short welds skipping around (kind of like doing thin sheet metal) and will have to keep the grinding a bit patient as well. This thickness of metal is at the top limit of my 120V lincoln welder - hopefully it doesn't have to be perfect.
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2018
  20. Apr 21, 2018
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Sponsor Sponsor

    Sacramento Ca.
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    I like that a lot. Now I need to buy more material :banghead:
     

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