1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

Replace V6 Timing Chain? Project Creep!!

Discussion in 'Early CJ-5 and CJ-6 Tech' started by Buildflycrash, Nov 29, 2018.

  1. Nov 29, 2018
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash Member Sponsor

    Gulf Breeze FL...
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2007
    Messages:
    519
    You may have seen my thread about changing the water pump. I had this broken/stuck bolt and then the timing chain cover would not come off.

    So we’re Creeping to the Timing Chain. It looks good. (I guess) There is a bit of slack. See how I move the chain with my finger in the photos below.

    How hard to change the chain? Is this chain going to leave me stuck on side of the road? How necessary is it?
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Nov 29, 2018
    Chilly

    Chilly Active Member

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2007
    Messages:
    1,000
    It will cause rough idling, wandering timing. Then noise under the cover. Then jump a tooth or three, perhaps resulting in piston-valve collosion.
     
  3. Nov 29, 2018
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
    Messages:
    19,156
    That looks way too loose to me. Usually you replace it as a set, including the chain and the gears. The original camshaft gear had nylon teeth, so it's been replaced at least once. RockAuto shows a Cloyes, Melling or Sealed Power timing set for about $20 - all good brands. Seems like a no-brainer to me.

    Been a long time, but I recall it's easy. Turn the engine until the index dots line up, loosen the cam gear and remove the chain and cam gear, replace the crank gear, replace the cam gear and chain together. Make sure the dots still line up.
     
    Tom_Hartz likes this.
  4. Nov 29, 2018
    Tom_Hartz

    Tom_Hartz Member

    North Carolina
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2014
    Messages:
    266
    I agree, worn out. I would change it.
     
  5. Nov 29, 2018
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash Member Sponsor

    Gulf Breeze FL...
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2007
    Messages:
    519
    Everything is off the front of the engine, I can’t see any further creep from here so WTH I’ll just do it.

    What’s the deal with the crankshaft seal? Does that get replaced?
     
  6. Nov 29, 2018
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash Member Sponsor

    Gulf Breeze FL...
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2007
    Messages:
    519
    How about my distributor? I have photo of how it was clocked on but when I move the crank around it’s going to be different. Is there something I need to do to be sure I get it back together correct.
     
  7. Nov 29, 2018
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

    Washington DC.
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Messages:
    4,147
    I am pretty sure you don't want to hear this, but if your timing chain is worn out this bad and its not original, chances are good your cam lobes are getting round too. Might have some faulty lifters too. It seems that all the engines I have taken apart had those problems. The one I "rebuilt" had round lobes and crushed lifters. The creep keeps creeping!

    Anyway, get a puller for the crank sprocket. Line up he 2 dots and yank it all off. Be careful to not drop the fuel pump eccentric, they are hard to get. The new kit comes with tensioners too. The seal can be replaced if you want if its leaking... I seem to recall one is rope? Could be wrong.. Enjoy! happy to see you got the apart.
     
  8. Nov 29, 2018
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

    Washington DC.
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Messages:
    4,147
    You're gonna have to retime it. #1 to TDC and point the rotor to #1 plug wire. Go around the distributor in the correct order. Use th shop manual I posted somewhere.
     
    Buildflycrash likes this.
  9. Nov 29, 2018
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash Member Sponsor

    Gulf Breeze FL...
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2007
    Messages:
    519
    Lifters and cams and lobes oh my!
    My workbench is covered with parts already. I’m completely unprepared to go any further. I wanna paint and drive this thing one year.
     
    Hellion likes this.
  10. Nov 29, 2018
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

    Washington DC.
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Messages:
    4,147
  11. Nov 29, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    1,678
    Don't worry about the distributor position now...you will have to reset it afterwards but its easy...we can help walk you through that when you get it back together. In short...you will manually turn the engine by hand till number1 is at tdc on the compression stroke, determine where you want the rotor to point for #1 on the cap and drop in. For a traditional points distributor there are a couple of preferred directions for where the rotor should point for #1 as it makes the vac can and adjustment window easier to access. A couple of photos and you will have right in.
     
    Buildflycrash likes this.
  12. Nov 30, 2018
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
    Messages:
    19,156
    You'll need the timing cover seal and gasket set regardless. There are sets with a rope seal or a rubber seal - I would use the latter if I could. Felpro is good.
     
    Buildflycrash likes this.
  13. Nov 30, 2018
    Billywam

    Billywam Billywam Sponsor

    Lyons, Colorado
    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2005
    Messages:
    133
    29CF5A22-6F7A-4C13-9463-B048B27863DE.jpeg Here’s a picture of mine after I replaced the gears and chain. You can see the two dots lined up. For me the hard part was getting the timing cover off. You can see from this picture how much less slack is in the chain compared to yours. I was quite easy to slide off and replace the gears and chain and tensioners.
     
  14. Nov 30, 2018
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Volvophilic

    Post Falls, ID
    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2015
    Messages:
    2,325
  15. Dec 5, 2018
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash Member Sponsor

    Gulf Breeze FL...
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2007
    Messages:
    519
    Update....

    [​IMG]

    Hardly any slack and connect the dots!

    [​IMG]
     
    Hellion and 47v6 like this.
  16. Dec 5, 2018
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash Member Sponsor

    Gulf Breeze FL...
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2007
    Messages:
    519
    Maybe an issue. The PO though parts 16 and 17 were optional. Not present when disassembled.
    Minor or big problem?

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Dec 5, 2018
    mike starck

    mike starck Sponsor Sponsor

    salem,oregon
    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2006
    Messages:
    492
    The tensioners are not used with the double roller chain. The tensioners are available at low cost and I retained them with my stock chain and gears.why wouldn't you use them. I would check with T/A Perf for the spring and button on the end of cam.
     
  18. Dec 5, 2018
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash Member Sponsor

    Gulf Breeze FL...
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2007
    Messages:
    519
    Are you saying I’m missing tensioners also? I thought I had that correct.
    T/A Pref ? Who ? What?
     
  19. Dec 5, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    1,678
  20. Dec 5, 2018
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist Sponsor

    Albertville, AL
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    4,772
    The cam thrust button and spring that your are missing can be bought from T/A performance or classicbuicks.com. Your engine may never have had one, several of the guys on here have pulled their engines apart only to find they were not on there originally, but most seem to have them. You do not appear to have a double roller style chain and sprocket set so yes you keep the chain tensioners as you have already installed.

    This is why it should look like installed.

    [​IMG]
     
    Hellion and ojgrsoi like this.

Share This Page

New Posts