removing hubs on Dana 44 axle

First off, you're on your own with this. If you get hurt its your own fault, not mine or this site or anyone else besides yourself. Wear appropriate PPE.

I didn't have a puller to remove the hubs and the place I rented them from no longer has this puller, so I bought one. I removed the axle shafts and the brake backer plates, hub and bearing by pulling off the brake drums, removing the bolts from the bearing retainer and taking a long punch and a 4# hammer to drive out the axle shaft/ bearing and hub through the retainer hole. It took some effort. This is NOT possible on a D41 because the drum is behind the hub with the lugs through it. No access to the bearing retainer bolts unless the hub and drum assembly is removed. To do a brake job on a D41 you must remove the hub. Not so on a d44.

This hub removal process is the same as if the axle shaft was still in the axle housing.
The axle closer is the drivers side and is longer. The drivers side are original lug studs, so they are left hand threaded.


The hub puller gets assembled and goes on the lug studs with the lug nuts and the pressure screw goes right on the axle shaft. there is an indentation in the axle shaft and a corresponding point to center the pressure screw on the shaft. Notice I still have the axle nut on at least 3 full threads. This is important because when you screw in the pressure screw there can be a lot of force pulling out toward you on the hub. When the hub releases it can come off with some force that could injure you or someone else. Leave the nut on.


If you don't have an impact gun and an air compressor to run it, You use a hammer to screw the pressure screw onto the axle. This is the set up you use. Don't use the chrome sockets for impact wrenches. I used it as a speed wrench to screw on the lug nuts loosely, but evenly.


In this blurry picture you can see the impact socket. You put a lot of pressure on the screw and most likely its not going to pop off. Once you feel that you have a lot of pressure on the hub, take off the hammer attachment or the impact socket and whack the pressure screw. If it doesn't pop off, give it some more pressure and whack it square again. Should go pop!


Once again, be careful if you do this. Make sure you leave the axle nut on, loosely, but at least 3 threads. Here is one side dissembled.


If you are doing a brake job on a D41 you're going to take the hub off to do it. There are many places to get this puller. I got mine on amazon, cheapest one I could fine. There are other manufactures in a similar price range. Have fun, be careful and fix it.

 

Chris,

You just saved my bacon with this write up! I am actually in the process of removing the axle and hub assembly for me D-44 as well....

Cheers! :stout::stout:

 

I had some old curmudgeon show me how and then let me borrow their shops puller in the early 90s. Pre internet. Iron Springs 4x4 in Prescott, AZ. Without those guys I would not have been able to get my first CJ2A on the road. I owe then a debt of gratitude. I'm just passing it along. I am glad I could be of help.

 

Thanks, Slightly off topic do you know the length of the bolts that retain the backing plate grease seals and bearing retainer to the axle tube? I need to source new ones.
Thanks in advance.

 

The bolts are 3/8-24NF and are about 1.5 inches OAL.

 

Are those the original bolts though? On my flanged 44 the heads are rounded with a single straight edge. Like a stud without the serrations.

 

This is a tapered axle. the ring gear says 1960. I have no idea if they are all original other than the fact that they were all the same both sides minus 2 that were obviously replaced. Thats all I got for you. I am not about original or restorations so I have no clue.

 

The flanged axle had less room between the bolt holes and housing end, due to different id for the bearing. That's why your bolts are different.