Removing cutlass hubs

I am beginning the brake servicing of the 74. It is stock with cutlass hubs.
I wish to remove it to the backing plate to clean them up, pack any bearings and facilitate working on the brake hose up front.

I removed the 9/16 bolts with their associated washers...The cutlass hubs can now move slightly outward, but I am hesitant to pry on it or anything without some guidance. I see no way to really use a puller on this, and I'm not sure if I'm approaching the removal correctly.


Would anyone be able to give me a run down on getting down to the spindle/backing plate?
The FSM, Haynes, and Jeep restoration guide aren't really clear to me with regards to the cutlass hubs

The Cutlass selective drive hub sheet I got with the paperwork I found on the Jeep says:

Seperate Bonnet from it's drive flange..... I'm not really sure what this means with regards to disassembling it, it looks like one piece, and so do the spares I have....

I guess I'll work on rear brakes until I gather more information.

Thanks

 

there is a snap ring on the axle shaft that holds them in.

 

I'm confused how it's exposed to remove the snap ring, I'm assuming the hubs disassemble further then?
I'll go examine the spare set further.
Thanks

 

I'll take pictures. There's a plate that covers the hub, pop that off, then there'll be a snap ring under there.

 

If it's like the ones on my '74, you take the bolts off and the cover comes off (the part with the knob).
After that, you get to the snap ring part.
Assuming you have the CTM-80/85A hubs. See attachment.
I have the break-down and parts list, for what that's worth.


View attachment 25295 View attachment 25296

 

Well here's the cutlass hubs I have...
But guessing from the other pics they're totally different



Mine had been painted over so much that I didn't see the flange, until I knocked it with a rawhide mallet and it popped off.
But I guess that there were more than 1 cutlass.

 

Yes exactly like that.......... I guess it just takes a bit of force to pop the cover, and that is the entire part with the knob. Thanks.

Yours looks very good!

 

Not many original "Renegades" around.
Completely stock, garage kept. 60,000 miles.
These larger ones pictured above are the older style. The style with the "bonnet" are from the late '60's.
I had a Gladiator truck that had ones similar to the Warn style, but the knob was plastic.
Those large ones are somewhat similar to the old Dualamatic and a couple of others that were around in the early years.

 

I would not pry on it yet. The knob on the end might come off, exposing the end of the axle shaft with a snap ring. Is there a set screw in the knob somewhere?

I've only owned the Warns, but all the locking hubs will be held on by the ring of 9/16" bolts that go into the hub (the actual hub that the wheel mounts on) and a snap ring on the end of the axle. The Warns have a ring of allen cap screws that hold the 'dial' on the end of the locing hub. Under the dial is the snap ring. They aren't going to slide off till you remove the snap ring.

It would help to post a close-up of the hub itself. Can't see much from the distance in your pics above.

 

The Cutlass CTM 80/85's are practically indestructible.
One of the reasons I have them.
The bonnet is made of steel. You don't have to remove the knob.
Take the bolts out that hold it to the hub, use whatever to remove it, you're not going to hurt anything.
One you get that off, you have access to the innards. Remove the snap ring and the drive gear.

 

I'm thinking that incynr8 is only looking at removing the hubs so he can remove the drum to access the brakes. All I do is take the 6 bolts out, tap the locking hub assembly off with a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer, you need to break that RTV seal in order to get them to move then they just slide off. Now you have access to the lock nuts that hold the bearings and wheel hub to the spindle. Don't use a chisel to pop those locking nuts off, spend the $$ and get the proper socket.

 

If the snap ring is in there (like it is from the factory), the locking hub won't come off. You can't get to the spindle nuts until the locking hub is off.

Sometimes these hubs are put on without the snap ring. They seem to work ok without the snap ring, but that's not the correct way to put them together.

As these came from the factory, the flanges have a dust cap. Under that dust cap is a snap ring, on the end of the axle shaft. Remove the snap ring, and then you can remove the 6 cap screws that hold the flange on. The locking hubs attach to the hub the same as the flanges did. Unless the installer left out some parts, you need to remove the snap ring and the cap screws for the hubs to come off.

 

There are no setscrews or visible ways to remove the knobs, I understand the warn accesses in such a way, which is why I stopped with regards to brutalizing these just in case. The two I have as spares I will photograph but they appear to be held together by a C clip from the 'inside'. I do believe they must just be 'popped' off with some force as an assembly to access the spindle clip/nuts/etc.

My drums are actually off already, I was looking to service bearings and strip it down to nicely attend to backing plates and such. Although it doesn't 'need' front wheel cyls, they are not leaking and clean. The rears are disastrous. I have all the parts to just do them all anyway.

setting a month more as a goal to get driving and stopping with a leak free fuel tank.


tommycj, mines 44k, but far more neglected than yours. The hood stripe is funky because the hood only was repainted and the stripe painted on.

 

I found this link that shows them exploded:
http://www.willystech.com/wt/cutlasshub/Pictures/IPBCcutlass2.jpg

 

just updating this thread in case anyone ever needs this info.
The above is correct.

The cutlass hub 'hat with knob' comes off the lower flange after the bolts are removed. This is not always that easy, and you will want new gaskets afterward.


There is a 'C' clip as stated to remove the rest and get to the spindle bearing nuts and lock washer.

So do not be afraid and get that front piece off the cutlass hub...