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Rear brake drum puller

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Ugly67, Apr 20, 2006.

  1. Apr 20, 2006
    Ugly67

    Ugly67 Displaced son of Texas

    Longmont, CO
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    I've got the original offset D-44 on my rig. The one with the tapered axle spindles. After a hard day of wheelin' on Sunday I got it home and I'm leaking brake fluid down the inside of the passenger tire. Time to replace/rebuild the brake cylinders.

    The rear brakes are about the only thing I haven't been through yet mainly because I've never acquired the puller for the rear drums. I remember seeing an article about the operation and it showed a puller that attached to the outside of the brake drum. I'm game, but couldn't find such an animal on Northern, JC Whitney or Harbor Freight.

    Does anyone know where I can find a brake drum puller for the tapered axle Dana 44? Can I use a standard puller that bolts up to the lug bolts?
     
  2. Apr 20, 2006
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
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    Don't need a puller for the drum just for the rear hub (which the drum fits over).
     
  3. Apr 20, 2006
    Ugly67

    Ugly67 Displaced son of Texas

    Longmont, CO
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    Well if that's the case, my life just got easier. I'll take a closer look at it. I thought the drum was pressed onto the tapered and splined axle.
     
  4. Apr 20, 2006
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
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  5. Apr 20, 2006
    MOP

    MOP Active Member

    Pullman, WA
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    they may be swedged studs, mine are (I found out after an hour or two of frustration). You will need to either buy a special tool for the swedge removal, or take them in, complete with hub, to be pressed off. I think some people have done it themselves, but I don't have that kind of patience or tools.
     
  6. Apr 20, 2006
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    (Allergies kicked in here so this may or may not be sensical...but..) Isn't it going to depend on what brakes are on there? Is '67 10" brakes, and if so are they seperate from the drums vs. the 9" brakes where it all has to come off together?
     
  7. Apr 20, 2006
    Ugly67

    Ugly67 Displaced son of Texas

    Longmont, CO
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    Very cool. Thanks for the link. Full floating rear is on my list, and the write up tells me what I need to do for my brake work. I hope the link still works by the time my kids are through college, because that's the projected timeline. Thanks again!
     
  8. Apr 20, 2006
    Ugly67

    Ugly67 Displaced son of Texas

    Longmont, CO
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    It's a '67 so they're supposed to be 10", but you know how that goes. I've discovered plenty of anomalies regarding what's supposed to be on vs. what's really on. I'm going to measure it up tonight and take another look at the drum with the wheel off.
     
  9. Apr 20, 2006
    m38willys

    m38willys Jeep Vice 2024 Sponsor

    Green Cove...
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    my rear nine inchers come off seperate of the hub. Maybe it is different than others due to it being an M38 axle, but I doubt it. It just has the three screws holding it on to the hub flange.
     
  10. Jun 5, 2006
    Ugly67

    Ugly67 Displaced son of Texas

    Longmont, CO
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    At long last I got around to trying to repair the rear brake cylinder. I've got the 9" brakes. No screws holding the drum on. I bought a puller. The kit that I bought has a slide hammer and the screw type apparatus. I used both of them.

    NOTHING DOING! Couldn't get the drum off to save my life. Went through a half can of liquid wrench. Beat on it. What in the heck am I missing? I saw something earlier in the thread about taking it in to be pressed off. What am I supposed to take in? The whole rear differential? Nothing's coming off at this point.
     
  11. Jun 5, 2006
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
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    I think MOP is right, they're swaged on. You'll need to cut 'em off or?

    Could you drive the lugs out with a BFH? Obviously you'll need to replace them by removing the hub then and new ones pressed in.

    But you might be able to drive them out throught the back by pounding on the threaded end? OTOH, that might mushroom the head enough it wouldn't go through the drum. Perhaps if you used a drift on them and punched on 'em a few times?
     
  12. Jun 5, 2006
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    Uh - Ugly - you need a HUB PULLER - Big one... Not one of those little toy ones you will find in town or work with a slide hammer (I have one of those too). There like this one PULLER - though I have seen them alot cheaper.

    Once the Drum and Hub are off - you can Press the Lugs out (or drive them - use a Nut on the threads to help) - swap the drum to the outside (open holes slightly) Press new lugs in and not have to do it this way again.
     
  13. Jun 5, 2006
    MOP

    MOP Active Member

    Pullman, WA
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    I don't think you want to pound on the lugs...something about tearing up bearings/axle housing?

    I feel your pain Ugly. I have a set of 11" drums for the rear boxed up in my garage because I don't look forward to getting my 10" swagged/swedged (whatever their called) drums off.

    I am thinking I am gonna pay to have the job done (gasp). I had my mechanic do the front 11" brakes and he charged me less than one of those pullers would cost, and that included repacking the bearings, making new mounts for the brake hoses, etc.
     
  14. Jun 5, 2006
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
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    Doubt you'd tear up the axle housing. When mine were this bad though I had to replace the wheel bearings anyway. :rofl:

    Warloch is right though. Hub puller, then pound 'em out as I suggested.


    Shoot, I bought mine that looks just like that one that he linked to for 1/3 the price from JC. Whitney.

    Here with the PN from the 44 Full Floater writeup.
    http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/...01&sku=+12ZX8895A&searchbtn.x=0&searchbtn.y=0
     
  15. Jun 5, 2006
    jhuey

    jhuey Michigan Jeeper!

    Indian River...
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  16. Jun 5, 2006
    Ugly67

    Ugly67 Displaced son of Texas

    Longmont, CO
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    So let me get this straight. My puller ain't big enough? I use 2" wheel spacers. I put my spacer back on and attached the screw type puller to the spacer, because otherwise it wouldn't fit. Then I torqued down on the puller with a breaker bar. The puller was distorting (lifting up) off of the wheel spacer. I figured I was gonna break something so I stopped.

    The puller you recommend looks pretty beefy, and it looks like you can hammer on the screw lever. Is that the deal? If that's the case I'll probably just take it in because I don't need to spend $100+ for a puller that I'll only use until I do my brake upgrade.
     
  17. Jun 5, 2006
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
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    $100+???

    I paid $50 for mine and have used it multiple times FWIW.

    Take it in if that's what you prefer though cuz there's no way a regular 3 jaw puller will do what the hub puller we've suggested will do. :)
     
  18. Jun 5, 2006
    jhuey

    jhuey Michigan Jeeper!

    Indian River...
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    X2
     
  19. Jun 6, 2006
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    You might want to rethink how often your gonna need that puller... If you ever need to pack the wheel bearings or work on the rear end your gonna need one. I have a home made setup that I can send info on (post vac next week) if you want. The main puller I use is a 1930's era 20 ton 3 jaw setup like in the pic. I use a 3/4 drive on a 1 1/8 nut that when it starts to bow I pop it square on with a 12lb sledge a couple times before it finally gives...

    Does that help with what I takes to get these off at times? Remember, this is a tapered Keyway driven in to lock a two piece axle.
     
  20. Jun 6, 2006
    Bob Allred

    Bob Allred Desert Bob

    Riverton, Utah
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    I called around the local rental businesses, found one that rents automotive related tools, rented one of the heavy-duty hub/wheel pullers like pictured in previous posts. $10 for a day's use. :) This after trying two different lighter pullers, one of them the slide type.

    The H.D. puller had a hex head on the drive part, put a 300 ft.lb. air wrench on that and used an acetylene torch to heat up the hub.

    Got both hubs & drums off both sides of my 67 CJ. Even with the H.D. puller and heat, it was still a real chore. Nothing lighter would do the trick. Before laying out lots of $, try the rental businesses in your area!

    By the way, my 67 needed wheel cylinders too. It has 10" drums.
     
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