Power Steering Upgrade

don't know if this helps, here is mine.




Jay

 

Today's lessons:

1: should have placed a ball bearing between the puller bolt and end of pump shaft to prevent galling. You can see in the kit there is a puller bolt with a free floating smooth dowel, but it was too long so didnt allow the collar to engage. Would have trimmed it but it isnt mine, its an Autozone loaner.

2: there are no NAPA high pressure hoses east of the Rockies. Perhaps they have no expectation of survival for 1973 Jeeps.

3: Rustoleum brand rust dissolver is crap. Simply acid priced very high. EvapoRust or the WD40 versions are not strong acids, and are safer and gentler altenatives. The latter two products wont attack base metal. Rustoleum will dissolve anything into nothing given enough time. I know anout toilet bowl cleaner. It's closer to crap than Rustoleum (see what I did there) but at least its cheap crap.

4: 1973 PS pumps have a threaded shaft with a nut and key according to my 73 FSM. The 78 pump from Wagoneer has pressed on pulley with no key. I dont see where it'll matter, but different.

5: Core charges on PS pumps are insane.

 

Jay, yours has a different front bracket than mine. Back looks similar though. Thanks for the photo. I'll solve by trial and error.

Hickory? Not far. Im in Mercer.

 

But I'm TIRED! Been walkin all day...

One bourblez, one scotch, and a dozen beers.

Aint drove my CJ since I dont know when.
Rusted once, and it'll do it again.
Fixin steering while the body aint done.
Since I started made a girl and a son.
Kindergarten, it's my boy's first year...
GIVE ME ONE BOURBLEZ, ONE SCOTCH AND ONE BEER!

One bourblez, one scotch, and dozen beeeerres, YEAH!

 

Yea about 45 min south on 79 and 13 Min west on 50. I used to go up that way for HRJA, but when the wife got cancer, club wanted active members so I left the club so someone else could join, they had a 250 Max membership.

Jay

 

Maybe this helps. It's my J20, but it should be the same.

 

Thanks, Tim. Looks like two washers under stud hex head, then aluminum arm on top of that. I'll start with that and see what happens.

 

Out with the manual gearbox.

Tips: use anti-seize on threads of any puller. Heat the pitman arm before installing the puller so you dont anneal the arms with your torch. Heat from bottom up if you intend to reuse the gear so you dont cook the lower seal, and wouldnt hurt to wrap something non-flammable between arm and gearbog to keep the flame off the seal. Dont beat on the shaft. Tap the end of the puller rod while under tension. Get more aggressive if you must but you may damage something. Because mine was thiroughly slathered in epoxy paint PB Blaster wouldnt get into the joint, but would have helped, but its also hard on rubber seals.

 

New gear is a monster by comparison. Having irdered for a 73 CJ5 I didn't expect a four-hole body but what do I know.

Larger input spline with a flat for indexing to the joint. I think I'll call Borgeson to see what collapsible shaft they have for this conversion. In for a penny...

 

Mocked up. May need to do something with the brake line. Wont take much to correct if it interferes with the PS line.

 

Yep, either a Series 700 or 800 Saginaw Power Steering gear box.........looks more like a 700.....larger sector shaft and before you order any input shaft parts you better check the spline count and diameter....that looks like a 36 spline x 13/16" .813 but looks are deceiving......if your looking for the correct Pittman arm check Parts Mike in California..........he used to have a shelf full of most all variations including some that we have filed the internal key out so they could be indexed anywhere..............the input shaft should be centered L/R and most are marked from the re-builder.

 

Measures about 0.805" across the splines. Withe the indexing flat I canonly estimate how many splines would comprise the full diameter.

 

Called Borgeson. Without hesitation he (Jeff) advised that for a 1973 PS CJ5 I'd want part number 000904.

 

A reman gear for a '73 CJ-5 should be a 4-hole gear, to go with the 4-hole steering bracket.

 

When I get it mounted I'll see what bracing options are for the unused hole. I'm only running 31" tires and doubt I'll ever be rock climbing with it.

I'm supposing a 4-hole PS bracket for an intermediate will not be easy to find.

 

Yep... scarce. We had a thread about that recently.

Manual To Power Power Steering

 

Not sure what that part # is that you have mentioned above............just pointing out the Sector shaft size and the input shaft size are different than your old manual gear box.....................Likewise when you order parts for either , Like a Pittman Arm or input shaft adapter or universal ..............I would be calling out dimensions rather than model year.

 

Appreciate watching my six, Tarry. One benefit to ordering an actual 1973 CJ5 PS gear is that one should expect to be able to likewise order steering shaft and pitman for a 75 CJ5 with PS. I am aware that inputs and outputs from the manual and power boxes are different, but it does bear repeating for those who come after.

 

Alignment seems spot on.

 

Lessons continued...

6. Make sure to put the front aluminum part of the bracket onto the pump before reinstalling the pulley. That littke thing I'm pointing at requires the front brace to be installed before pulley. At least I hadnt returned the loaner tools yet.