ok, so how much is this worth?

lemme start by answering your questions:
Pictures are on the way, will post when i get them.

I can get a 1980 CJ-5 with the 4cyl and a 4spd Manuel that is in running condition. It has no top

Its red - in case that matters...

fresh paint job about 3 years ago
driveway has been its home for about 3 years
last driven hard 3 years ago in colorado.

it has no top, small rust patches inside, but nothing too bad.

needs a new drivers side brake line (not a big deal)

unregestered, owner has title but never regestered it after he bought it.

also - what is the engine that is in the rig if it is an 1980 and a 4cyl? what about the 4 speed trans? what are the likely axles?
thanks for any help

 

any idea on what the t-case would be there?

 

Dana 300 i think.

 

and it should be the lower 2.62-1 ratio, desireable, 4 banger only
it could also have 4.09s in the diffs

without pics, e-guess: $2000-$2500 in Calif

 

really? the guy wants 400 up front and will let me make payments intrest free to him to get the total 1000.00

 

do your homework first
crawl underneath, get tag info
get someone who is more familiar to go with you
ask seller questions; post some pics here
don't go just on my opinion
let other members here help you
sometimes, when it's too good to be true, proceed with caution

 

thanks, what are some good questions to ask?

 

D300 is a 2.62 low range, as were all of the D300s

The 4cyl is the GM "Iron Duke"
4cyl 5 speed CJs had the 4.10 gears, the 4 speeds had a 3.54, or 3.73 gear ratio. (No OD)

Check the common rust areas, including the frame rails. IMO, the 76-86 CJs had the worst rust problems, and the paint job could be hiding all sorts of sins.

A non drivable late model 4cyl CJ5 without a top isn't in real high demand, and the price seems fair for what info there is on it so far.

 

I might be able to help by just jotting down some areas that cost me $ and time when I picked up my so called "running" CJ.

1. Running engine. True it was running, but needed a rebuild shortly after I got it. Major valve and lifter issues and typical AMC v8 oil pressure woes. If possible, run a compression check of your potential buy -- put a vacuum gauge on it and see how steady the needle is too.
2. Leaks -- you name it, it leaked. This was a general concern that costs more time than money, unless you fall into the "While I'm there I might as well..." category. Then this generic issue costs you real $ as well. Pinion, tranny, diff, rear main, Xfer case, vacuum, you name it. Find where the Jeep was stored, if you can and see how much oil is on the ground and where it is relative to major jeep parts. If this jeep is like mine, looking underneath could be hard cause it was ALL smeared with oil and dirt. A little leaking is no big deal at all, but watch out for heavy gushers!
3. Body Rust. Non-perforated rust isn't a big deal, but check very closely at the hat channels underneath, and all mounting points. When they go bad, you have a major issue to deal with, especially is body work is a skill set (and tool set) you are in short supply of.
4. Electrical. Over the years the wiring in my /5 turned into a rat's nest that I couldn't deal with any longer. Have you ever been in a CJ with a dash fire? I ended up replacing the harness and installing a real fuse box. Take a peek under the dash. It will be in disarray -- don't worry, but look for the number of disconnected wires, jumpers, and crimp connectors. Check for working lights, etc.
5. Transmission -- I had that crappy Peugeot tranny that broke a week after. Took a while to replace it with a T18. "WHILE I WAS THERE" I rebuilt the thing and rebuilt the xfer, since it was out too. If you have time, you might want to remove the fill plugs in the tranny, xfer, diff covers to see if there is fluid in there and if it is a nice color/smell or if it is green and stinky. Probably worse than a leak is a leak that never was address or a dry area that should be well oiled.
6. Clutch -- I needed a new one right after I put in the T18 -- when the jeep was parked with the tranny in any gear (including reverse) it would roll down what I considered a mild hill. Not that a clutch was a huge expense, just that I should have looked at it when I replaced the transmission. Cause I got to do that all over again! Check for noise that might indicate a worn throwout bearing.
7. Frame -- Check for cracks in key spots on the frame. I know different models had different issues (and I don't know what they all are), but usually looking just before/aft of the spring perch mounts should give you a clue. Lots of stress there that could cause problems. Also, if previous owners installed a blade for snow removal, the front portion of the frame can get cracked as well. I had to make a couple of rather ugly repairs to get mine back to a reliable state. Check for cracks in the steering gearbox bracket too.
8. Wheels. Brakes I just figured on replacing -- pads, wheel cylinders, springs. No biggie. Again, if you have time, check on the wheel bearings. I burned the rear bearing taking the Jeep home with me on day1. Had I looked, I could have trailered the Jeep instead of trying to drive it.
9. I supposed the biggest indicator would be the owners repair records and/or parts receipts. That should indicate the level of neglect that the poor CJ went through.


Then after all that I decided I wanted it to look pretty and make all the gauges work right. That was the big buck decision. Frame off time!

OK, now you can figure how much it is worth to you!

 

Clutch is hydraulic, only available on the 4 cylinders. I'd take a peek to see if it works.

 

the plan now is to test drive it

thanks for all the responces and keep them coming. i really dont want to make another 1000 mistake (Read: 2wd Ford Ranger) and buy a hunk of junk. the more that is known about this vehicle, the more i can be prepared to look at.

Ill be running searches soon.

thanks
-Ranger

 

Acutally, for a few grand more you can pop a fiberglass 37 Ford pickup body on that ranger frame/driveline and have an instant "Classic"!

 

My friend told me to ask about any sort of steering convertion if it had been done on the rig. I havent had a chance to ask the owner of the Jeep yet, BUT - what in particular should i be looking for? i have read about saginaw convertions and all that, but what years were affected by "weak" steering?

thanks for any help and please bare with an XJ owner who is learning =)

 

A Saginaw conversion generally applies to Jeeps much older than that '80. You won't have to worry about that. If it's power steering, you'll want to check for leaks, etc. If it's manual steering, shouldn't be a problem. Check for play & wear in the joints on the steering shaft, on the engine side of the firewall. These wear out after a while.

Eric.

 

If you proceed verify that the title is transferable to you since it is in another guys name still before you drop any dough into it

 

Make sure the steering box isn't coming off the frame. The mount on the late CJs is hideous.

 

Well said!