Novak Clutch

You'll definitely need to lengthen the rod to get rid of the finger's worth of slack.

 

Replying to myself.... or if you have an adjustable pivot ball, you could also use it so take up some/all of that slack.

 

I have my my pivot ball just about touching extended to the max where I feel
Comfortable leaving it. I bench bled the clutch, no more bubbles came out. Can push the MC in 1.5” and still the slave only moves 1”. If I put it back in it only moves 1/2”. Already replaced the snap ring in slave because it was bent somehow and the plunger doesn’t even come close to the snap ring. My set up when installing it is. Plunger piston to rear of slave, I push the pedal in it slightly soft then solid and doesn’t move after the bearing hits the Pressure plate... I don’t want to stomp on the clutch pedal because I’m afraid 200lbs on it will snap something or blow out the seal in the slave.. should t have that much force to move the pedal?

 

just taking this into account..

if the force of the hydraulics don't want to move the pressure plate something is interfering with that movement or your just not pushing hard enough.. only one way to tell...

a backwards friction disk could cause this or an incorrect pressure plate diaphragm..
if both have been checked and confirmed and mechanical advantage of the pivot stud confirmed there really is nothing more to correct other than movement of the system..

......unless your throw-out bearing is getting caught on the splines of the shaft.. (from incorrect geometry)
I had that happen once.. didn't realize it until I put my 200 lbs behind it and I saw what bent (the face of the bearing)
come to think of it.. it was on my dauntless engine using the novak clutch kit..(T176 transmission if it matters) the solution was more height of the pivot stud and an adjustable bearing to get the geometry correct so the force was applied to the pressure plate not the shaft..

sorry for thinking out loud...

 

No, I appreciate the thoughts. The clutch plate is installed right. Trust me it even says “flywheel side” on it... the pivot ball could
Come out a bit more but I’m almost maxed out. It’s a 1/4 +” more than original. I have a McLeod adjustable bearing coming because Novak said they are over 10 wks out from getting one from the suppliers they get it from. I can only imagine if it’s the bearing.. if not... everything has been replaced, measured, torqued to specs. So if the bearing comes in, then everything will be new, well except flywheel and PP, those looked good and functional before pulling the apart to put new clutch plate in.

 

I have my bearing that came today. I will try to get it in this weekend. Any idea on the adjustment length? I’d really hate to install it and doesn’t work and have to take it all
Out again to take a ring out of the adjustable TO bearing

 

Yes it’s in N. We are going to take another look at the clutch system. Look over our ratios, geometry of the pedals. I feel as though when I push the clutch in, the Novak plunger moves over an inch (measured and correct) when installed it meets resistance and moves 1/2” then some of the pedal assembly moves (top part only) it’s mounted firmly to firewall but the part that extends toward dash is not mounted to anything. And the pedal still depresses to the floor. I bled the system and found no more bubbles to come out. I reverse bled it as well from slave to MC. Did that for 2 days. Straight fluid. When it’s hooked up. I have a lot of resistance pushing the pedal. When I had the bellhouse and transmission out, the bearing and fork moved fine, with minimal rub. I think because the bearing wasn’t set right on fork but I don’t remember. Still no activity with clutch. I had to use a ratchet strap to see if clutch worked and it does. Was tight but 2 clicks and bang, activation. But can not get hydraulic clutch to move fork.

 

Finally it’s on the move. Thank you all!!!! So I adjusted to a longer plunger (1/4”) and my pedal assembly was moving so I mounted to with two bolts to piece on cowl that we originally thought about doing and reinforced the assembly itself so no flexing.. now just need to do some adjustments to lower pedal a little, alignment, tires, adjust carb because I’m running at about 1000-1100 rpms. Then tags and off I go..

 

Congrats! That's been a long time coming. God on you for following through.

 

Awesome. I hope to have mine back on the road this week as well.

 

Awesome!! having clutch issues myself.

Chris