Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Norcal69, Sep 11, 2014.
I was going to add my $.02 but don't want to get on the banned wagon.
Right before the Rubicon I developed a fuel leak from the sending unit O ring on my rear tank. Since I needed to drop the tank to replace the O ring and run the fuel return line I decided to replace the finicky sending unit.
I had to adapt the CJ sending unit to YJ tank. Lots of careful tack welding to not overheat the sender.
I also added an extension to the pickup tube to allow all 15 gal to be used.
Before I would run out of gas at 12 gallons. After extending the tube I am able to use all but about 1/2 gallon before running out.
I got the new sending unit in the tank and installed the whole mess with a functioning return line. Tonight's project is the fuel tank valve.
I am hoping to mount it on the floor riser between the seats.
Got it all labeled so I wont get confused when I'm lying on my back this evening......
Finally got the fittings in and the valve mounted. I had to special order the 1/2"NPT-5/16" barb fittings. Its not the prettiest install I've done.... but it will work.
Just need to finish bolting it up and plumbing the return lines.
So are you going to have an electric switch to flip the fuel gauge as well?
Yup, I have a switch on the dash that transfers the sending unit signal.
Do you still have the original/factory Jeep cluster?
I noticed on the last trip that I had a little drive shaft vibration. Slop in the slip splines started to develop and i had doubts about the balance job.
I ordered this new shaft from Adams Drive shaft on Monday morning and they shipped it out Monday afternoon!
Nice, that looks much beefier, especially at the slip joint! Looks like it'll serve you well.
Too bad it's assembled backwards
I am not too keen on the Cardone odd fire distributor that I am currently running. I'll have to post a video of it..... the rotor is screwed down tight but it rocks all around.
I picked up this NOS oddfire HEI on ebay. I am going to disassemble it and put some fresh dielectric grease under both the module and coil.
A few notes......
The cap is way thicker than any of the aftermarket replacements.
The coil uses red/white wires to signify it is reverse polarity and made for a BOP application. The Chevy style would have red and yellow wires.
I had been using generic electrical connectors for the HEI power in and tach out terminals. Once upon a time I spent some time broke down with a buddy in the woods when his truck randomly quit running...... His HEI power connection had vibrated loose......
Took some time last night to install the proper connectors.
The proper terminal ends for the HEI seem a bit more expensive than I liked.. I used the generic variety also. This is the right way though.
In perpetration for my TBI swap this winter I ordered HEI this week. Hope to install over the weekend. Where and what exactly did do get there? I'd like to "do it right the first time".
This is what I used. You will not need the black connector.
If you google HEI pigtail you will find a plethora of options.
Thanks I'll get that one - I don't need or even want to see the plethora.
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