After several instances of brand new or nearly new condensors failing, I gave up on points ignition in both of my Jeeps and bought a Pertronix module for one and HEI for the other. But when I bought another old vehicle (not a Jeep this time ) I decided not spend that much money to keep a tired out 50 year old engine running. I drove myself crazy with one bad condensor after another. The engine would run fine, until with almost no warning, it would sputter once or twice and then die completely. I never had a single condensor last more than a couple hundred miles, except for the one that was in the car when I bought it (probably at least 20 years old) which I kept as a spare. Are points ignition systems really that unreliable? In the past, no. But today it seems like the parts market is full of very low quality condensors that just don't last. The funny thing is, the underlying technology of a capacitor is leaps and bounds better than it was when these vehicles were new! There is really no excuse for these failures. Knowing this, I decided to gut an original condensor and put a modern capacitor inside that is much smaller, cheaper, and more robust. I cut the end of the condensor off with a pipe cutter, being careful not to damage the rubber end seal. Here is what's inside: This roll of metal foil and insulating film is what forms the capacitor. There are actually two separate sheets of foil that form two parallel plates which can hold an electric charge. One piece of foil contacts the outside of the can, and the other contacts the wire lead. Seems like not much could go wrong here, right? The problem is that neither the can nor the wire lead have a robust connection to the foil - they just lightly touch! Poor manufacturing tolerances, temperature changes, and more can easily degrade this connection. In this photo and the photo above, you can see the signs of arcing between the wire lead and the foil (dirty and charred looking black spots). Once arcing starts, the connection will degrade, causing more arcing and before long there will be total failure. I selected a suitable replacement capacitor. It has the same capacitance as the old one, a high voltage rating (I chose 1kv - there are going to be very large transient voltages across it), and low equivalent series resistance (a type of parasitic loss). It is much smaller than the condensor body and only costs around $3. Capacitor I drilled a small hole in the end of the condensor body and one lead of the capacitor through it. Then I soldered it in place. At this point, I forgot to keep taking pictures. Sorry! The next step was to fill the condensor about 2/3 of the way up with JB Weld to hold the capacitor in place. I let this harden first. Then, I soldered the other lead of the capacitor to the orange wire. I filled the rest of the can with JB Weld and pushed the rubber seal into its original position, then did my best to put a little crimp on the can to hold the rubber seal. I completed this in May and it has worked flawlessly since then. The car is my daily driver and I have put about 3000 miles on it without any hiccups... well, not from the ignition at least!